Build Log: Double Triple XP-G R5

So the obvious visual difference is moving he switch to the back plate. Anything else noteworthy?

Some slight internal differences to reduce weight by about 15~20 grams

I've been toying with something like this. Although these types of curves are much harder to make with a reliable level of quality... So this version will likely never be made.





Or this version...




This one has some rounding on the rear plate




Are there any aesthetic changes you would like to see?
 
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I haven't received my Gen II yet, so I might have some suggestions after doing that build, but one thing I would like to see is a location for the MaxFlex STAT LED. I know you're working with some really tight spaces, but if you could find a spot for a 2mm LED (or smaller if they exist) that would be great. Or maybe there is a illuminated version of the switch you are using that could be substituted?
 
Some slight internal differences to reduce weight by about 15~20 grams

Are there any aesthetic changes you would like to see?

On an aesthetic basis:

I feel the current faceplate is too large in proportion to the lens size and smaller back plate. This is enhanced by the 'pause' made before the machined fins begin to allow for material for the face plate screws.

I think your gen-3 designs further highlight this.

The centered cable glad and top mounted switch is nicer.

A feature for an indicator led should be optional. I would not use the led and would not want to have to plug a hole. But I'd like the option.

Black works well with this design but I think a natural anodized finish would appear nicer, longer.

Could you leave more material for the mount hole. A square around the location. The taping into the fins looks a bit weak.

The internal cable holes - to the front led and switch cavity could be smoother/smoothed before anodizing. Things were sharp inside and I didn't want to relieve the anodizing with a file (not so much aesthetic as functional for the builder - but would have made a mess inside if I did take my file to the case).

So that's my aesthetic thoughts....
 
The centered cable glad and top mounted switch is nicer.

Its may be nicer, but it is significantly more expensive to machine, my current goal is to reduce the cost as much as possible so that this case will be more affordable for everyone.

A feature for an indicator led should be optional. I would not use the led and would not want to have to plug a hole. But I'd like the option.

Because the tolerances and clearances are so small inside the case, this will likely never happen.

Black works well with this design but I think a natural anodized finish would appear nicer, longer.

I will not be offering a natural finish again.

Could you leave more material for the mount hole. A square around the location. The taping into the fins looks a bit weak.

The increase in machining time to complete this is significantly higher than the current solution. Plus, I have done some simple strength tests and have yet been able to strip the connection.

The internal cable holes - to the front led and switch cavity could be smoother/smoothed before anodizing. Things were sharp inside.

These edges already are being de-burred before anodizing, there should be NO sharp edges. I don't see the point in spending large amounts of extra machining time changing this.
 
I haven't received my Gen II yet, so I might have some suggestions after doing that build, but one thing I would like to see is a location for the MaxFlex STAT LED. I know you're working with some really tight spaces, but if you could find a spot for a 2mm LED (or smaller if they exist) that would be great. Or maybe there is a illuminated version of the switch you are using that could be substituted?

Unfortunately there is no version of this switch with a LED
 
Built mine up a few days ago, but I have to wait for the UCL glass to arrive:poke:before I can take it outdoors for a proper shakedown ride.

From a build perspective everything went together smoothly with no surprises. For the internal wiring I used 24awg Teflon covered wire which is a lot thinner than the silicone covered stuff and I think helps a lot in the tight space available.

Comparing the beam profile to my other lights, in particular my Troutie 7up, I was pleasantly surprised to see this light produces a much tighter spot type beam which looks to be perfect for a helmet light. Only concern is the weight of the Gili 6 might preclude helmet use, but I will see if I can come up with a mount to give it a shot.

I do love the attention to detail you've put into the design, especially the o-rings used to seal up the front and back. Definitely don't lose that top mounted switch, I think its a key feature that works really well.

If I was to offer suggestions for improvement I'd say removing any weight you can would be welcome. I also agree with the comment that a little more "meat" around the mount hole would be a good idea. Oh and better quality anodizing please, mine has a ring around the back of the main housing section that is thin and rough and detracts from the otherwise quality look of the light.

Karl

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii97/kwarwick/Lumen%20whoring/P1000325.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii97/kwarwick/Lumen whoring/P1000327.jpg

[over-size images replaced by links. Please read Rule 3. - DM51]
 
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Is there another supplier for the XPG modules and optics other than Cutter?

Twice now I have tried to make an order from them, but once I get to the shipping adress page, It will not allow a US state to be entered. I do not know if they just do not ship to the US or if it is a web page issue, but first time i tried was over a month ago. :thinking:

Thanks, Joe
 
Is there another supplier for the XPG modules and optics other than Cutter?

Twice now I have tried to make an order from them, but once I get to the shipping adress page, It will not allow a US state to be entered. I do not know if they just do not ship to the US or if it is a web page issue, but first time i tried was over a month ago. :thinking:

Thanks, Joe

LEDSupply.com has them and they're located in the US and provided very fast service when I ordered. 3up board: http://ledsupply.com/creexpg-w417.php
Optics: http://ledsupply.com/carclo-optics-xpg-3up.php
 
This looks like a good helmet mount for the Gili 6 and at least one possible source: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=23534



P1000351.jpg
 
Nice! Does that mount come with the bottom plate part (It is not shown in the retailers picture)

No sure, since the mount I'm using came with my Hope Vision 4. That piece is show as coming with the handlebar mount: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=23533 but that doesn't really make sense since its not needed for that purpose. I guess you could buy both mounts and then you'd be covered for helmet and handlebar!
 
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