Build Log: Double Triple XP-G R5

[coldass]

Its may be nicer, but it is significantly more expensive to machine, my current goal is to reduce the cost as much as possible so that this case will be more affordable for everyone.

CA: I'd like lower cost.

I will not be offering a natural finish again.

CA: Black is sweet.

These edges already are being de-burred before anodizing, there should be NO sharp edges. I don't see the point in spending large amounts of extra machining time changing this.

CA: The holes to the switch were really sharp. If I wasn't really careful I feared a sheared wire. As it was the sharp edges 'shaved' some of the wire outer. Perhaps mine didn't get a full de-burring... p.s - been away - sorry so long to reply.

My light is going strong. Still running it two-mode. I had some drama's with connectors while trying to change from my 3-pin metal mini din to Matt's standard mini molex. Still not 100% resolved until I buy some new batteries and a charger (my charger wants the 3-core wire and that's how my batteries are wired...). I have determined I want about a 3200mAh battery. My 2200mAh's (old to boot) just don't have enough capacity for the GILI-6's punch so a new battery is next step to completion. Might need to bug you for another connector Matt???.

 

[sosemot728]

Might need to bug you for another connector

No problem, send me a PM with what you need.

 

[kwarwick]

I've had mine out for a couple of road rides now (as a helmet light), one was almost 2 hours, and the light performed flawlessly! I set the Maxflex thermal protection trip point at 60c but I never kicked in during the ride :thumbsup: (an indoor tests had it kick in as you'd expect). As a reference point, my Troutie 7up (on the handlebar) hit that same trip point a couple of times during the ride. Mind you the Troutie, being on the handlebars probably doesn't get the maximum cooling effect being up high on a helmet provides and also the Troutie is dealing with the cooling load of an additional emitter as well as the heat dissipation from the Maxflex boosting my 14.8v Lipo battery pack to drive that addition emitter. Still I think this shows that Matt has done an excellent job on the design with respects to thermal management. One of my buddies (who I also built a Troutie for) was envious and would likely be a customer if more of these were available... *hint* *hint*.

 

[sosemot728]

One of my buddies (who I also built a Troutie for) was envious and would likely be a customer if more of these were available... *hint* *hint*.

🙂

If I was thinking of doing another larger (and cheaper) run, I need to know I have at least 10 pre-orders again.

Just a thought. Any takers?

 

[Whitedog1]

hi matthewm!

Nice development here

Have you ever thought about building it for 2x the 4up XPG boards?😗

I never mind if the switch is on the backplate or on top! From the machining side, keep it at the backplate!
But: It looks so small that it seems impossible to operate it in the winter when wearing gloves!

So probably you need a new switch here......😳

And, as posted from someone here already, i would also like to reduce the frontplate dimensions - the little optics and the big black area around it doesn't look so good! (Of course you need that for the screws)

To solve this you can take longer screws which are screwed in from the backplate side, holding the complete housing together!?:huh:

Ok, enough here,
just my2c
Whitedog

 

[sosemot728]

Have you ever thought about building it for 2x the 4up XPG boards?

Maybe another time.

I never mind if the switch is on the backplate or on top! From the machining side, keep it at the backplate! But: It looks so small that it seems impossible to operate it in the winter when wearing gloves!

This will controlled by a micro-controller, Currently the plan is to utilize a momentary switch on the rear plate. I have not found any issues using the switch with gloves

To solve this you can take longer screws which are screwed in from the backplate side, holding the complete housing together!?:huh:

I have thought about this, but I don't think the front plate will be thick enough, to contain the thread.

 

[Whitedog1]

I have thought about this, but I don't think the front plate will be thick enough, to contain the thread.

Perhaps you can use one size smaller countersunkhead screws.....this should help the front to look smoother:thinking:

 

[Mettee]

Matt,

I am curious to see what one of these lights looks like assembled on the inside, one you built since I have seen others. Placement of the drivers and wires and such, and how the driver is heat sinked.

thanks,

drew

 

[Mettee]

Just did a back-2-back with my Exposure MaxxD (960 lumens). The GILI-6 blows it away. On 1000mA so another level to go! I won't go higher until I set the thermal cut.

I just changed to bike mode on the MaxFlex - but are still in duo-mode. (a sticking switch made this a pain).

The switch is better now. A bit of lube did the trick.

I took a photo of the 'guts' before I sealed the back. The front is still loose (no lens). I'll post pics soon.

CA.:thumbsup:

Any plans to change the switch other than the next gen light?

 

[sosemot728]

Matt,

I am curious to see what one of these lights looks like assembled on the inside, one you built since I have seen others. Placement of the drivers and wires and such, and how the driver is heat sinked.

thanks,

drew

Hopefully these will answer your question. I have changed the switch design, it will be glued in the rear section.










All I need is some degree of interest and I will order these through the machinist!

 

[Mettee]

no those are not pictures those are renderings....

 

[sosemot728]

no those are not pictures those are renderings....

Yes they are...

I only have photos from the old design, they are in the build guide.

Here, http://www.2shared.com/document/9wRo8Nf_/guide.html

 

[Mettee]

ok so you can not post a picture here(old design is fine)? I am not downloading something from a random site.

 

[sosemot728]

ok so you can not post a picture here? I am not downloading something from a random site.

No the only photos I have of the construction are in the guide.

 

[Mettee]

well thats a bummer.

Maybe I will look to your sales thread and ask some of the other purchasers of complete lights and see what they have to say.

drew

 

[sosemot728]

well thats a bummer.

Maybe I will look to your sales thread and ask some of the other purchasers of complete lights and see what they have to say.

drew

I am confused about what you are asking, I just posted a link that has more than enough pictures of the assembly process.

 

[Mettee]

how is asking for a picture of your work confusing? And with out having to go to some site to download who knows what. That is what this thread is for no? Seems like way too much work to me I will completely pass on your products. If its this hard to get a picture imagine if I needed warranty or something happened and I could not fix it, or spare parts for that matter.

 

[sosemot728]

how is asking for a picture of your work confusing? .

I have extracted the photos (via print screen) from the guide I have posted for you previously.

 

[Mettee]

thanks. ok, so the maxflex is glued down onto the flat section in the second picture, is that correct?

I will add that I think the new version looks a little better to me where the switch and cable are on the back, and the switch has a rubber boot over it(looks like its rubber). Not only in looks but also as far as durability.

 

[sosemot728]

thanks. ok, so the maxflex is glued down onto the flat section in the second picture, is that correct?

I will add that I think the new version looks a little better to me where the switch and cable are on the back, and the switch has a rubber boot over it(looks like its rubber). Not only in looks but also as far as durability.

GenIII still has a similar configuration as GenII for the switch, there is no rubber boot. The difference is that the GenIII switch is mounted from the rear and glued in place.