Building a PhD-M6 battery adapter (ultra picture heavy!)

LuxLuthor

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Pretty damn impressive thread! I bet very very few people ever realized how much work, equipment, design, setup, testing, adjusting, failed samples, etc. etc. must go into something as simple looking as a battery holder. I have a whole new level of appreciation after seeing these photos.
 

Atlascycle

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Hi KC2IXE,



One thing I would like to do someday is figure out a way to have some custom dies made up to produce some of my common size copper parts in one simple punching operation on the arbor press.


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Thanks to all for the complements.


Eric

Eric,
I work for a company that does stamping, if you decide to persue having a die built let me know and i will put you in touch with the person here that does the quoting.

Jason
 

mdocod

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I just added another 30 pictures. The start to finish is now completed!

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Hi Jason,

Thanks for the offer, I may take you up on that some time in the future!

Eric
 

precisionworks

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I think the insert makes a big difference, as I can get the shower of chips at about 900rpm spindle speed with a good DOC and the sharp PCD insert when I feed the Y fast enough
DOC is certainly important, as is feed, but type of chipbreaker is at least as important as both the other factors. I haven't tried turning plastic with the Alois #23 (TPU insert with adjustable chipbreaker) but it looks like it would work well, as long as the chipbreaker was set close to the edge of the insert, like the photo below.

aloris23.jpg
 
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leukos

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Outstanding work, Eric!! :thumbsup: As others have said, you have created an amazing product with limited tools at your disposal. I am glad you have put so much thought into making the PhD M6 project a success. I can't wait to handle the finished product! BTW, I hope you are wearing some kind of face mask when all those acetyl plastic strings are flying around! :eek:
 

KC2IXE

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BTW, I didn't say it when I asked about the lathe, but NICE work, I'm impressed, and I like how you chaned a bunch o ER-XX collet holders into what is effectively a quick change system - I'll tell you that it has ME thinking, as right now (today - well, last night) I was doing a job that required a couple dozen tool changes, all between the same 3 tools

I've also come to the realization that I've probably got to do some serious work on my mill - either add a DRO or convert it to CNC, but sitting there, counting turns, chasing backlash to do what I want was taking too much time, and as I take in more work, time=$$$

I'm at the point of cursing the fact I live in NYC, and that despite the fact I made sure I could fit my existing lathe and mill down the basement, I've outgrown what I have, and my garage is full of well, garage 'stuff' plus the surface grinder. I wish I lived where I had a good sized 2 car garage. There isn't enough work to say "lets rent space" yet. I'd love to be able to go out and drop some money on a small VMC and a CNC lathe. The CASH is there to start/run the business (no startup loans), but rent/space/marketing...
 

mdocod

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Hi KC2IXE,

Thanks!

Keep in mind that the quick change tool method I am using can double up the run-out from the 2 collets used in the system. Cheap chinese ER collets will often promise 0.0006" or less run-out, more expensive USA made units can be down around 0.0002" or less. I work in plastics primarily, so a little run-out just doesn't have a huge impact on my work. If you work in metals and need to hold precision and have tool life considerations but want this type of setup, look into the higher grade tooling. Also, if you want repeatable Z axis positioning, check out the tormach quick change system, it's based on the exact same principal, but uses a special R8 collet with a precision ground flat face, and collet holders with a precision ground face at the base of the shank that mates with the face of that R8 collet.

IMO, regardless of how you go, for anyone needing quick tool changing on the cheap, it's really hard to beat a big pile of ER collets and collet holders on straight shanks. Oh, BTW, most come with long shanks, like 4 inches. I whacked most of mine down to ~1.25-1.75" length with an abrasive cutting wheel on an angle grinder. I use the longer ones to compensate for shorter tool lengths, and shorter ones on long tools.

Eric
 
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