Built me a ROP. Thanks FiveMega

TwinBlade

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Bro, I tried 18650's. No dice. The maglite that I bought doesn't have the positive little spring for a contact point. The nubs on the 18650's that I have do not make contact apparently. It is the only reason I can think of why the light won't turn on.

Oh well. Maybe I will just switch hosts. That is always a plan right?
 

Nasty

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TB...pop a small (thin) magnet on the end of the battery.
 

TwinBlade

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No dice. The thinnest one I have is 1/8" thick...a neodymium. I have no more spring to clip off and even with that thin magnet I cannot get the tail cap on.

What is up with the magnet? Is this a common problem that they don't turn on with 18650's?
 

KiwiMark

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Bro, I tried 18650's. No dice. The maglite that I bought doesn't have the positive little spring for a contact point. The nubs on the 18650's that I have do not make contact apparently. It is the only reason I can think of why the light won't turn on.

Are they protected 18650 cells? If you are using the high bulb with protected cells the current can be too high, tripping the protection circuit.
 

Hack On Wheels

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That's what I'm guessing.Try double-clicking on the switch to see if that helps.It's worth a try.

Which cells are you using?

I've even had to triple-click with one setup to get it to light up. Once lit it wasn't an issue, but the initial current surge was just too high for the protection circuit. For that I would just tap the switch 3 times, only doing a full click on the third tap.

It worked consistently like that, but then I swapped in a lower power bulb for longer runtime and only had to click once again.
 

TwinBlade

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Well you guys are just awesome. :thumbsup:

I cannot get it fully lit on the high pelican bulb, but after 4 or 5 fast presses on the low bulb, I can get it to stay on.

My batteries are protected Ultrafires.

Do I need to get different batteries? I would REALLY like to just click this thing once and be done with it. I also need to order a few Eneloops anyways. If I need to get different 18650's, where is a place that sells whatever brand you recommend and Eneloops all in one shot?
 

fivemega

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Do I need to get different batteries? I would REALLY like to just click this thing once and be done with it.

There is no protected cell to power up ROP HO safely and single click.
Eneloops are safest way to go for newbe.
AW's protected cells may require double click while other cheaper one need tripple or...
For pair of protected 18650 cells, brightest possible bulb is WA1111
However ultimate ROP HO or even 5761 is 2S/2P 18650 which will work with single click, provide steady and very long run time.
 

Nasty

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FM -

However ultimate ROP HO or even 5761 is 2S/2P 18650 which will work with single click, provide steady and very long run time.


How does this compare to a M*g85?

To a 1909 in a M*g?

I have to say...the M*g11 built as FM says is a totally *usable* light...waaay bright and with great runtime. It's usable in a real world way, not just for showing off the Wow! factor.
 

flashfiend

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Mag85 w/ Bi-focal reflector is very difficult to beat but it does require 3xLi-Ion level voltage. Similar to WA1111 in beam characteristics but brighter.

FM1909 in a Mag is just plain awesome but is a real power hog. Great wall of light but big filament can be difficult to focus for super throw.

5761 is another power hog but with a Throwmaster reflector you would have to go aspheric to beat it.

I think the most all-around useful of the ones above is the Mag85. If I had to choose one Mag setup and only one I would get a Mag85 using a tri-bored body or a 3D 9xaa battery adapter w/ a bi-focal reflector. I made an ROP w/ FM's exotic Mag body and I preferred the Mag85 a lot more.
 

Billy Ram

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A 9AA eneloop m*g85 with a bi-focal reflector is a very handy light that everyone should have. The 3-D FM09 with 26650s is twice as bright with even more run time. I have 2 with this configuration that see a lot of use.
Billy
 

KevinL

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Well you guys are just awesome. :thumbsup:

I cannot get it fully lit on the high pelican bulb, but after 4 or 5 fast presses on the low bulb, I can get it to stay on.

My batteries are protected Ultrafires.

Do I need to get different batteries? I would REALLY like to just click this thing once and be done with it. I also need to order a few Eneloops anyways. If I need to get different 18650's, where is a place that sells whatever brand you recommend and Eneloops all in one shot?

Well, you're discovering that not all batteries are the same and that there is a huge difference in performance and quality.

The ROP is most unforgiving, maybe it's a good thing you weren't able to light it up because you would probably have exceeded the design limits of those batteries resulting in unpleasant circumstances.

We only recommend AW batteries, whether traditional 18650 protected or IMR. IMR is safer and specifically designed for that kind of amperage - you really should be using that. Don't let the capacity numbers fool you either, IMR holds out better despite technically lower capacity (less voltage sag) and the safety margin is well worth it.

Don't go cheap on your batteries. The light only lasts as long as the juice holds out.
 

Notsure Fire

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A 9AA eneloop m*g85 with a bi-focal reflector is a very handy light that everyone should have. The 3-D FM09 with 26650s is twice as bright with even more run time. I have 2 with this configuration that see a lot of use.
Billy

How is it handy? Doesn't the battery pack only last you like 10 minutes tops? I've had an ROP and it was amazing but the battery lasted like 5-10 minutes and the eneloops were ridiculously hot.
 

Mjolnir

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For a 2D ROP, I would suggest these IMR 26650s from batteryspace:
http://www.batteryspace.com/limnnirechargeable26650cell37v4000mah10arated148wh.aspx
(they are actually LiMnNi while the AW IMR cells are only LiMn, but they are fairly similar in terms of usage).
They have no protection circuit so they will always light up in one click, but they are safer (not as safe as Nimh, but safer than traditional unprotected LiCo). They will not catch fire if overcharged like LiCo cells, but you still have to be careful when charging them.
Since they are not protected, you also have to be careful not to run them down to low. However, these cells are the best for an ROP in my opinion; they pack a lot of energy in a small space, especially when compared with 18650s or AA cells in a 2D maglite (a lot of space is wasted with both of hose configurations).

I run mine with a 3854H bulb which is somewhat risky (as it drives the bulb pretty hard), but I have yet to blow a bulb. A safer bet would be these cells with the 3853H bulb for less of an overdrive but more bulb life (and runtime).

To charge them I used D cell battery holders, cut them, and reattached them with a small gap to allow the cell to fit (since 26650s are longer than D cells).

I originally tried with protected LiCo 18650s, but I am much more satisfied with the 26650s (which, at 11 dollars each, are a pretty good deal).
 

KiwiMark

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I run my 3854-H in a Mag 2D with 2 x 32600 cells, currently I am using unprotected cells which work fine, but I have have more protected cells than unprotected ones. I have tried with protected cells, but no matter how many times I click the light just wont turn on. If I play around with the tail cap and introduce some resistance then I can get it to turn on, once on the protected cells will run the bulb just fine.

The problem is when the filament is cold the resistance is too low and the inrush current immediately trips the protection circuit.
The simple solution is to use unprotected cells or the 3854-L bulb.

The more complicated solution is to use some sort of electronic component that produces a 'soft-start' for the light. This should improve bulb life & also let the bulb start up without tripping the protection circuit. Hence this thread: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/283268

If you don't want to play around with the complicated solution then the best option is to buy some good unprotected cells, the IMR cells would be safer than LiCo for this sort of thing.
 

Billy Ram

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How is it handy? Doesn't the battery pack only last you like 10 minutes tops? I've had an ROP and it was amazing but the battery lasted like 5-10 minutes and the eneloops were ridiculously hot.
The 9AA m*g85 will burn bright for arround 30 mins or a bit more. The 3x26650 FM09 will burn bright for a bit over 40 mins.
Billy
 

Phaserburn

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There is no protected cell to power up ROP HO safely and single click.
Eneloops are safest way to go for newbe.
AW's protected cells may require double click while other cheaper one need tripple or...
For pair of protected 18650 cells, brightest possible bulb is WA1111
However ultimate ROP HO or even 5761 is 2S/2P 18650 which will work with single click, provide steady and very long run time.

I have some Thrunite protected D li-ions that always power the ROP hi bulb on a single click. Their true capacity is around 4.5Ah (rated at 5, I think). They handle the 4+ amp drain with no problems. I usually do burns of around 20 mins continuous while dog walking.

Love the D li-ions as they make the best use of the Mag 2D body; you get a little under an hour's runtime. Still looking to trade some ROP high for ROP low bulbs...
 
Last edited:

Hack On Wheels

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I have some Thrunite protected D li-ions that always power the ROP hi bulb on a single click. Their true capacity is around 4.5Ah (rated at 5, I think). They handle the 4+ amp drain with no problems. I usually do burns of around 20 mins continuous while dog walking.

Love the D li-ions as they make the best use of the Mag 2D body; you get a little under an hour's runtime. Still looking to trade some ROP high for ROP low bulbs...

I don't mean to hi-jack the thread, but where did you get those batteries?
 

fivemega

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How is it handy? Doesn't the battery pack only last you like 10 minutes tops? I've had an ROP and it was amazing but the battery lasted like 5-10 minutes and the eneloops were ridiculously hot.
You definitely have problem with your batteris and may need to replace them soon.


Love the D li-ions as they make the best use of the Mag 2D body; you get a little under an hour's runtime. Still looking to trade some ROP high for ROP low bulbs...
I never had luck with protected "D" Li-Ions, So I went with dual bored system for 18650 cells.
The only problem is initial cost but once it's done, obtaining 18650 cells are much easier with many different choices available from 2000mAh~2900mAh, Li-Co~Li-Mn and best of all, I can run 5.5 Amp 5761 with single click.
 
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