Cablas Flashlight die?

my-smokepole

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Aug 9, 2007
Messages
7
It runs on the 123 some thing like a P6 was working fine then the next time nothing.:confused: I Amitie I haven't check batteries yet. But the last time I had used it was nice and brite. If it is battery's who is running the best price on them currently. Any ideas
Thanks
my-smokepole
 
How long did you run it for? You will usually only have one hour of battery life if it is an incadecsant light. If you have a multi-meter check for continuity between the two contacts on the bulb. No continuity means a blown bulb.
 
Hard to say it has all is been for a short times. What caught me flat footed was that it when from a brite light to nothing or is this a normal thing for this type of light.
thanks
my-smokepole
 
We are talking about an incandecsant light correct? If so, it would get noticeably dimmer, and more yellow before the batteries just died completely. It sounds like the bulb may have blown, but to be sure I would try new batteries first.

If you want to try new batteries, go to Fenix-Store, they have free shipping, and the batteries are pretty good. They are also much cheaper than buying from most local stores.
 
When I was using a P60-incan with primaries it would dim considerably, and emit very orange-yellow light before completely depleting the cells.
 
I just got a Cabela's light and I think the switch may be giving me trouble. Try removing the tailcap and using a knife or paperclip to touch the bottom of the battery to the bare metal of the flashlight body. If it lights up then, the switch is either bad, or not making contact with the body of the light.
 
It must have been bad batteries meter out at about 1volt per battery. THE PART THAT GOT ME WAS ONE MOMENT it was bright and then next nothing the only thing I can think of was it got turned on in my pocket.
So who is having the best deal on 123 batteries
My-smokepole
 
The Cabela's light contains a secret shared by no other light I've ever seen. Connect an Ohmmeter between the positive and negative poles of the tailcap and the meter will show nothing. Now click the button on the cap and read it again. Still nothing. This would lead one to think that the tailcap is bad, but it's not...at least not yet. The reason you don't get a reading is because there's a diode inside the tailcap. It acts as a reverse polarity protection for an LED module, should you choose to use one.

In order to see if the tail switch is good, remove the head of the light and run a meter between the positive terminal of the front battery and the body of the light. If there's no reading, click the tailcap and try again. If still no reading, the tailcap is bad (meaning that the diode has gone bad, most likely from shorting out against the ground part of the switch. If this occurs, reach inside the tailcap with some long nose pliers and unscrew the interior part of the cap (see picture below). Then gently pry the metal edge from around the green circuit board until you can remove the guts of the switch. Cut the diode out of the circuit and run a jumper between the board and the switch, being sure to insulate the jumper from grounding. Then replace the green circuit board and tap the metal edges back to hold it in place as before.


cabswitch.jpg
 
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