Cable Switch on Handlebar Experiences?

[jackaloop]

Hi!

My current setup consists of an B&M Ixon IQ as a lowbeam and a Jetbeam III Pro I.B.S as highbeam. Problem is: The switch of the Jetbeam is hard to push with gloves on, its got no momentary on feature and the 3 Levels are to much.

So I bought me a Solarforce L2p, but its default switch is even more recessed than the jetbeams. I knew of this limitation beforehand and decided to juts buy me a speparate Forward switch. But now I've came across the Idea of using a remote cable switch, and so I wanted to ask, if anyone tried that for their bike lights? How Do you fix the cable on the handlebar?

My main concern is not to blind oncoming traffic, so turning the flashlight on an off really fast without taking my hands of the handlebar is the essential idea.

Thanks for your input!

jackaloop

 

[Baulz]

Hi!

My current setup consists of an B&M Ixon IQ as a lowbeam and a Jetbeam III Pro I.B.S as highbeam. Problem is: The switch of the Jetbeam is hard to push with gloves on, its got no momentary on feature and the 3 Levels are to much.

So I bought me a Solarforce L2p, but its default switch is even more recessed than the jetbeams. I knew of this limitation beforehand and decided to juts buy me a speparate Forward switch. But now I've came across the Idea of using a remote cable switch, and so I wanted to ask, if anyone tried that for their bike lights? How Do you fix the cable on the handlebar?

My main concern is not to blind oncoming traffic, so turning the flashlight on an off really fast without taking my hands of the handlebar is the essential idea.

Thanks for your input!

jackaloop

I use a Judco switch from digikey on my bar, just use a piece of velcro to hold it in place. Nothing fancy but it works.

 

[bogster]

I use a Judco switch from digikey on my bar, just use a piece of velcro to hold it in place. Nothing fancy but it works.

I have been considering doing just the same with a Judco switch but was wondering about the best way to fix the switch to the bars. Could you possibly provide a few more details on how you have attached the switch to the Velcro Baulz?

Regards,

bogster

 

[Bobblehat]

Hi All .... first post here :twothumbs, so fingers crossed I do it right!

I too like to control my lights without taking hands off the bars. I modified my Smart Twin Halogens' (7.2V overvolted) original switch to two Judco switches, one for high beam (10W), one for low (6W) and can swiftly alter the light combos with a click with my thumb(s). One switch is on the left, one is on the right. I like the ease at which I can go from both off, one on, both on or change from high to low ..... even while braking or changing gear! Very useful when commuting or when a jogger or doggy-walker appears in the high beam at a distance, I change to low which is pointing well down. I guess this setup will work for some LED lights although it could have strange effects on multi-mode lights!

On an earlier version, I tried a minature on-off-on toggle switch on one side only, but didn't like the momentary blackout as it switched through the "off" (I have soft-start circuits) and the toggle was a bit too easy to knock. The two Judco's are nicer to control, even with heavy gloves, and the blackout can be avoided when switching modes by switching a light on fractionally before switching the other one off.

I leave the switches and wiring attached to the bike but the battery and light head are removable using in-line plug/sockets for when there are light-fingered fiends around! I use small aluminium or s/steel strips to make brackets to wrap around the bars near to the other controls and position the switches so they are easily reached by my thumbs but don't clash with the brake or change levers. The set up will vary with your bike controls positions. The wires are neatly held along the bars with one or two narrow strips of double-sided self-gripping velcro. I find it helps if I put a slim strip of innertube on the bars first before wrapping the velco around to stop the velcro and wires slipping.

Hope this helps the OP or others. Can't post pictures yet, I think. I could try later if anyone is interested.

(O.T. Is it true I can place pictures in a CPF album and link to them there in a message, or do I have to post them on a hosting site first? Can't see anything yet in my profile, but that could just be 'cos I'm a noob!)

Bobbl@

 

[gentlegreen]

My lights are much more low-tech, but I have a classic motorcycle dip switch and I use the horn button to flash the unlit and the dazzling of the cycling community.

Designed to be operated with gloved hands.

EBAY Link

 

[BrianMc]

Bobblehat:

First off, let me say: :welcome:

Secondly, that Google Search in forum at the top of the page is your friend! This was the first return on search of 'picture, host, link':

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=3174506

I hope thjis helps you post your pics.

Thirdly, let me say thanks for this first report of yours. I found it very useful.

Some LED drivers (many from Taskled, wwwtaskled.com) can be programmed to work well with on/off switches. They also have dimming. With handlebar switches, both dimming and on-off high beam is possible.

I think znomit in a thread somewhere (wrong key words so Googling failed to find it for me fast, maybe he will comment), mentioned that he thought the reduced flashing of high beams by dimming his light was more because motorists were happy to know he wasn't on high rather than any actual amount of light output he had or discomfort he caused.

It would be interesting if it is more a matter of being seen as courteous, than the actual discomfort a bike's lights cause to motorists. Since this thread is about handlebar on/off switches, and these would be very useful in controlling high beams easily, does anyone have a feel for dimming versus shut down, or having both?

 

[12wheels]

I've been using the Judco switches mounted in a modified chunk of 7/8in square aluminum tubing velcroed to the bar without problems. It's pretty easy to make a base with just a drill, a couple bits, and a small file. I used JB Weld to glue ends onto the tube and then dipped the unit into liquid plastic which makes it look good but isn't necessary. The mount puts the switch at a height which works well with Twist shifters.

Here's a link to a thread on MTBR which shows the light and mount:
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=511005&highlight=a+basic+light
The first picture shows the finished switch mount.

 

[Bobblehat]

Your horn button would see a lot of use around here, gentlegreen .... lots of stealth "cyclists" on the streets at night!

Thanks for the tips BrianMc .... but I prefer Bobblehat to Booblehat ... but what do I know, it maybe some form of initiation

I guess with the very modest output of the halogens (compared to some of the designs in this forum and the other place), dimming has not been a feature I needed so independent control of high/low came higher up the list. I agree that being seen to Dip reduces the likelihood of motorists hitting their high beam in annoyance, or people swearing at you on shared paths. Occasionally, a quick flick over to high beam and back down to low will let a motorist know they've forgotten to dip ... usually works!

I haven't had more than the odd example of that problem, but I'm thinking of going LED, so I will have to take the higher lumens into account when I'm on the road. As many have pointed out, the homebrew designs make it hard to get a clean cutoff at the top of the beam and force you to angle the low beam down more than the ideal for road use. Whatever I end up building, I'll almost certainly use a similar switch setup to the halogens to keep similar functionality.

12wheels ... that's a nice switch and light mount method.

Bobbl@

 

[Bobblehat]

Thanks to BrianMc for the tips on hosting/posting .....

Switches photos here (if I do it right!):

http://s1018.photobucket.com/albums/af308/bobblehat_photos/Bike light stuff/

Bobbl@

 

[BrianMc]

Fixed typoo (sic).

Saw pics. Like horn. Have 12 volt battery & thinking car horn.

Drivers pulling alongside and forgetting the cyclist is still there are more my problem though the techzombies seeking Darwinian selection out of the gene pool can be an issue.

 

[gentlegreen]

Fixed typoo (sic).

Saw pics. Like horn. Have 12 volt battery & thinking car horn.

I may have to get one of those - a gentle comedy squeak must be less "get out of my way" than a bell.

(That's an immaculate set of kit Bobblehat. )

Years ago I was overtaking half a mile of static traffic one morning when the 12 volt Fiamm horn I used to have on my bike jammed on (crappy handlebar switch).

Before I could grab the wire and stop it sounding, the driver to the front of me was out of his car glaring in a threatening way at the driver behind - he absolutely couldn't believe that noise could possibly be emanating from the scruffy old git on the pushbike.

 

[Bobblehat]

Thanks BrianMc ... techzombies ..... I like it!

Hi gentlegreen, good story! The horn is in fact far louder than the bell and carries much farther. It gives dog walkers far more time to gather nervous poochie up before I pass them. There is a comic aspect to a "Honk, Honk" that raises a smile more often than a scowl and I sometimes get complimented by walkers for letting them know I'm coming up behind them. Works far better than the bell for BrianMc's techzombies too, a bell just doesn't cut it with today's earphones or those in the middle of their outdoor, sensory isolating, mobile phone conversations! The bell is useful when I want to attract attention to someone closer, but don't want to scare the sh*t out of them! I guess if there was a decent 6-8v sounder available, I'd try it instead of the bulb horn. Mind you, wouldn't want anything that made a sound like a Police siren etc!

You've probably gathered I use shared paths, cycle friendly routes(!) and urban roads a fair bit, that's why my commuter and the Kraken are both fitted with easy to reach light controls and warning devices. Despite all this, the brakes still get a good deal of use avoiding people sized obstacles!

Let's see some more switch set up pics, please.

Bobbl@

 

[BrianMc]

I guess if there was a decent 6-8v sounder available, I'd try it instead of the bulb horn. Mind you, wouldn't want anything that made a sound like a Police siren etc!

You've probably gathered I use shared paths, cycle friendly routes(!) and urban roads a fair bit, that's why my commuter and the Kraken are both fitted with easy to reach light controls and warning devices. Despite all this, the brakes still get a good deal of use avoiding people sized obstacles!

Let's see some more switch set up pics, please.

Bobbl@

Last first: no pics as I am currently switchless, but have one on order as the light switch on the battery is a PITA with gloves. The high/low beam thing and a horn will up the ante. Pics when I figure it out as I like a clear handlebar.

Bell: A lot of exercisers/dog walkers on my local one mile lap route and my other warm up cool down circuit who respond well to a bell. (Smiles) A horn would be better at distance and for hard of hearing like people behind closed car windows or techzombies. BTW, techzombies who are driving are the WORST! :thumbsdow

Rode a shared route in the next town and see the need for the horn there, too.

I came across this site which has a large and cheap horn button link and mentions that short siren blasts are horn-like.

A 12 volt horn on a 6 volt system sounds like a dying cow, but might work. I wonder if you took your 6-volt battery in to the store, whether you could test the 'siren' before purchase? Wake them up, at least. :tired:

http://nordicgroup.us/s78/sound.html

Cars were 6-volt until the mid 1950's through early 1960's. Here is the first link I got and the second horn is 6 volt. You can likely find better ones:

http://www.classic-car-accessories.co.uk/acatalog/12_volt_horns.html

BTW I had twin air horns indistinguishable form these in an BRG MGB and they saved my life from bozos who did not see me in spite of running headlights in the daytime on at least three occasions. You don't want them on a bike because the air pump is heavy and you don't want to be so close to them based on my experience while under a hood with them at full cry.

 

[gentlegreen]

http://www.classic-car-accessories.co.uk/acatalog/12_volt_horns.html

I was looking for a "Dixie" chip for a laugh, but "La Cucaracha" seems much more my thing :laughing:

 

[jackaloop]

Thank you all.

This is how I've done it:

I was looking for a remote switch, that offered also the possibility to switch the light constantly on. As far as I know there ist a spiderfire switch and a new solarforce switch that fullfill this criterion for the L2p. Ive choosen the Jetbeam switch, because the button for constant on looked to be the one with the best accessibility. Just some bits of self-adhesive velcro did the trick.

I think it's great! I can momentarily use the high beam with a push of my thumb, without taking my hand of the handlebar. Or I can turn it on constantly for longer dark passages without oncoming traffic.