Calling All Coleman Exponent 4AA Cree Lantern Owners! Maybe A Problem?

Gene

Flashlight Enthusiast
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I received this great little Coleman Exponent 4AA Cree lantern a few days ago that I bought from the Coleman "Family Store" sale. This thing is really neat and is bright and packs away to a super small, handy package. I really like it!

However, I read a post over on EDC forums that one gentleman complained of the batteries going dead very fast from sitting in the lantern. He had two of these lanterns and they both suffered from the same problem. He even stated that he contacted Coleman about this and they admitted to it and just told him to remove the batteries when the lantern isn't being used. That's not viable for a camping or emergency lantern!

Have any of you gents experienced this problem? It got me to wondering if these are one of those lights that might have an electronic switch that constantly drains the cells even when switched off? This could be crucial especially if you own the CR123 version!

I just want to say that I have received stellar service from Coleman in the past and if these need to be stored without cells, Coleman and their retailers should put that in the description of these lanterns.

Maybe some of you electronic wizards that have one of these could check out the switch to see if it is draining energy from the cells when off.
 
It definitely has an electronic switch in it that draws some power even when the light is off, but when fully collapsed the batteries are disconnected from the circuitry (or at least that's what my quick testing showed right after I got it).
 
It definitely has an electronic switch in it that draws some power even when the light is off, but when fully collapsed the batteries are disconnected from the circuitry (or at least that's what my quick testing showed right after I got it).

Anyone know how much power the switch draws when turned off? Or how long it takes to drain the batteries just from the switch draw in the off position?

I bought my lantern last month and installed the alkalines in it immediately. I've played with it on a few occasions and store it completely shut. The original AA's seem to be holding their charge and not draining.

Is there anyway to confirm that the switch is completely disconnected from the batteries when fully collapsed?
 
Is there anyway to confirm that the switch is completely disconnected from the batteries when fully collapsed?
Sure, turn it on and then collapse it and watch what happens. :poke:

And, I just checked it with a multimeter. If you measure for continuity between the top battery contacts and the metal posts that go up to the top you will find when the lantern is partially collapsed that there is continuity between between a one of the contacts and the post on its respective side (which makes sense since it will still work partially collapsed). When the lanterns is completely collapsed there is no longer any continuity.
 
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I had a taplight with an electronic switch that I couldn't figure out why my batteries were dead 7-10 days later and I finally took an ammeter and put it inline and measured the current in the *off* position.... 10ma... that is 240mah in a day. I bet someone with the lantern could do the same by opening up the battery cover with the lantern extended and pulling a battery out on one end using an ammeter to connect the circuit back. If the drain is more than microamps you got problems leaving the lantern in the open position.
 
I actually posted about this a while back when I discovered that the alkalines that came with my 4AA lantern were dead after sitting unused for 3 weeks. I figured maybe they were just junk batteries and put some eneloops in, big mistake... it took two down to such low voltage that they didn't even register on the charger at first... I didn't have a multimeter at that point so I couldn't guess how low, but I'm sure it damaged them. I'd say this is definitely a concern, especially for those CR123a version owners, as you mentioned. I chucked mine, I have no need for a lantern that needs batteries put in it before I can use it in the dark AND has such horrible beam artifacts. I'd rather use my L2D as a candle with the diffusor...
 
Hi Daekar,
Was your lantern completely closed? I can't imagine that it wasn't but folks are saying that might be the problem with these.
 
The complaints I've read about the cells being dead after a short time have not specified if the lantern was completely closed or left extended. I can tell you that my example is a real pain to open after it has been closed. Maybe the culprit is not being completely closed when switched off as these folks don't want to go through the tug of war to reopen it like mine?
 
Hi Daekar,
Was your lantern completely closed? I can't imagine that it wasn't but folks are saying that might be the problem with these.

My lantern was always stored closed, took up less space in the closet that way. That's why I was surprised when the cells died, it was closed up, turned off, and tucked away... usually things don't change when I do that. :shrug: FWIW, mine was also quite difficult to open again once it was closed. It meant I never was afraid of it opening by accident, but it was annoying.
 
After about 5 months of storage closed, I just checked the cells in my lantern and they are still showing 100% on the ZTS tester.

Tom
 
I have the CR123 version, not the AA, but mine still works fine with the original batteries almost a year after I bought it.
 
After about 5 months of storage closed, I just checked the cells in my lantern and they are still showing 100% on the ZTS tester.

Tom

I've had mine for about 4 weeks now. The original Duracell alkalines are still in it and they are still going strong. I haven't yet installed NiMHs in it.

The discharge problem doesn't appear to be universal since some of us aren't experiencing the drained batteries.

I really like the form factor of this lantern but the problems described by others makes me leary about it's overall usefulness.
 
You guys are right.

An experiment I did left one of the two Coleman lights I have stuck permanently open:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=146478&page=9

I bought both at the same time, put in Ikea batteries from the same box in both lights at the same time... They've sat untouched in a drawer since the experiment.

The closed one is good as new. The batteries in the light that's stuck open are as dead as a doornail.
 
Bought a 3AA Cree XR-C MicroPacker today. It pulls 0.45 mA when turned off. Batteries left in it will be dead in under 6 months. Apart from this problem, it's a great light. I will put batteries in it only when I go camping. I don't need batteries in it for storage as I have plenty of flashlights always ready if I need some light.
 
Bought a 3AA Cree XR-C MicroPacker today. It pulls 0.45 mA when turned off. Batteries left in it will be dead in under 6 months. Apart from this problem, it's a great light. I will put batteries in it only when I go camping. I don't need batteries in it for storage as I have plenty of flashlights always ready if I need some light.

I want to buy this lantern (3AA version - Micropacker) and I want to know if this lantern will emit light 360 degrees or does it have a permanent reflector on one side and will only light up to one direction?
 
I want to buy this lantern (3AA version - Micropacker) and I want to know if this lantern will emit light 360 degrees or does it have a permanent reflector on one side and will only light up to one direction?

The reflector slides up and down
 
I'll report that I have the problem with the batteries draining quickly in the 4AA lantern. I believe that it has always been open so that might explain it. I might have to take the CR123 version out of my car now that I've experienced this with the 4AA version.

Rats, why would they choose an electronic switch for this?!
 
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