Canister building questions..

LEDBE
J

joethefish

Newly Enlightened
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Jan 24, 2010
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Ok all following on from my original thread for a spearfishing/freedive light I am now considering making a canister.. My old halcyon had one so am used to them and thinking about batterys/runtime a handheld is probably too ambitious.
So canister builds I need to build something small/light/slim PVC is an obvious contender, but how is best to do it..?
My current thoughts are PVC pipe glued and layered flat sections for lid and base (including a step down insert section on both) base section glued in top with the usual latch and o-ring arrangement.
Are there any better methods?
My second thought is to utilise a mag body.. as i have some laying around obviously this may be sidelined later due to battery needs... but... is a mag endcap and o-ring (uprated) waterproof or does it require jb-weld, epoxy or similar on the threads as well. Main reason for asking is obviously removal of batteries is a handy feature made slightly difficult if i've glued the threads!
Thanks in advance, and for all the help on my other thread, the build is really taking shape in my mind.. if only I could sort the driver issue! :shakehead
Joe
 
Think you had choices with LEDs, oh my!

1st off since you want to build your own so PVC is a good way to go. Airspeedpress has a good DIY book covering canisters from PVC

I've had great success with maglite, you can use silicon sealer rather than JB weld and open it backup anytime... I've also had success with a thicker O-Ring. What can be an issue is available space... it can be lacking.

Since I don't use my lathe that often and I had a large off the shelf battery pack I found the OMS BCA298 for around $40.. cheap simple and DIY....
http://picasaweb.google.com/BeaverLakeNe/CPF#5431538751248940994
HEY I had to install a IP68 gland! It counts as DIY! :)

Other options are to purchase from the standard cast of characters (no particular order)
Packhorse
350xFire
mbsub
 
Codiak said:
Think you had choices with LEDs, oh my!

1st off since you want to build your own so PVC is a good way to go. Airspeedpress has a good DIY book covering canisters from PVC

I've had great success with maglite, you can use silicon sealer rather than JB weld and open it backup anytime... I've also had success with a thicker O-Ring. What can be an issue is available space... it can be lacking.

Since I don't use my lathe that often and I had a large off the shelf battery pack I found the OMS BCA298 for around $40.. cheap simple and DIY....
http://picasaweb.google.com/BeaverLakeNe/CPF#5431538751248940994
HEY I had to install a IP68 gland! It counts as DIY! :)


Other options are to purchase from the standard cast of characters (no particular order)
Packhorse
350xFire
mbsub
Click to expand...
For $30 you can't go wrong with the OMS canister. OMS actually uses a high or low pressure hose as their glands. They run the cable through it.

Damn! You put me second on the list!!! I'm hurt... LOL!! I guess better than 3rd.
 
350xfire said:
Yes, machined Delrin... Nothing like a nice piece of Delrin!
Click to expand...

Agree 100%.
But if you dont have a lathe then PVC is your best bet.

I have made them out of storm water pipe with a glue on end cap and a screw on end cap.
If you can charge through the light head then a totally sealed design with 2 glue on end caps can work great. If you ever need to open it up saw of the base of the end cap then peel the side off and glue a new cap on when finished.

In saying that for $150 one of 350's makes very good sense.
 
Packhorse said:
Agree 100%.
But if you dont have a lathe then PVC is your best bet.

I have made them out of storm water pipe with a glue on end cap and a screw on end cap.
If you can charge through the light head then a totally sealed design with 2 glue on end caps can work great. If you ever need to open it up saw of the base of the end cap then peel the side off and glue a new cap on when finished.

In saying that for $150 one of 350's makes very good sense.
Click to expand...

Hey Packhorse, have you ever looked into inductive charging? I have this Oral B tooth brush that charges without contacts. I don't know if this would require some kind of super huge inductive charger for our lights, but it would be awesome to be able to have a totally sealed can.

BTW, thanks for the reference!
 
350xfire said:
Hey Packhorse, have you ever looked into inductive charging? I have this Oral B tooth brush that charges without contacts. I don't know if this would require some kind of super huge inductive charger for our lights, but it would be awesome to be able to have a totally sealed can.

BTW, thanks for the reference!
Click to expand...


I have a sealed dive light that uses inductive charging which I'd be willing to dissect or perhaps send off for dissection if needed.

I would note that the LiON, lipo and Nimh want high amp charge rates that I'm not sure induction delivers.
 
Codiak said:
I have a sealed dive light that uses inductive charging which I'd be willing to dissect or perhaps send off for dissection if needed.

I would note that the LiON, lipo and Nimh want high amp charge rates that I'm not sure induction delivers.
Click to expand...


Hummm. Can you post a pic? What brand, battery pack, etc? Is this something that is no good? I would love to dissect, but it may be crap after I'm done with it.

BTW, I just read of a company called Pure Energy Solutions that says they make a 90w wireless charger... Interesting! I'll check it out. I wonder if it will penetrate 1/4" of Delrin.
 
Last edited:
I have thought about it but never really explored it.
I think the charger electronics would have to be built inside the can.
With enough winds of wire of the right thickness you should get a decent current. But you would need to rectify it and then regulate it before it feeds the charger. I think NiCd's would make it easy as would SLA'a. Li Ions may make it more complex.

The other alt6ernative isis external charge points on the can.
Solus did something similar. My guess is a magnet in the charging base activated a reed switch that made the contacts live. If the contacts were live all the time them electrolysis would take place.
 
350xfire said:
Hummm. Can you post a pic? What brand, battery pack, etc? Is this something that is no good? I would love to dissect, but it may be crap after I'm done with it.

BTW, I just read of a company called Pure Energy Solutions that says they make a 90w wireless charger... Interesting! I'll check it out. I wonder if it will penetrate 1/4" of Delrin.
Click to expand...

Let me go find it... it was cool when I got it, then I dove the real world... I live in Omaha NE, we're called Muck divers for a reason and this light is useless to me as it's ALL flood.
 
Packhorse said:
The other alt6ernative isis external charge points on the can.
Solus did something similar. My guess is a magnet in the charging base activated a reed switch that made the contacts live. If the contacts were live all the time them electrolysis would take place.
Click to expand...


I'm going to modify my canister to use the RCA type jack like mbsub, and plan on charging through the cable.

Are you guys wanting a completely sealed system, Canister to Handle?
 
Codiak said:
Are you guys wanting a completely sealed system, Canister to Handle?
Click to expand...

If you could manage that, you would have something very unique with a major selling point.

My dream dive light would be 1000 - 1500 lumen 4-6 deg beam with no side spill at all, and be a completely sealed system under normal use.

But access would still need to be possible in case the cable gets cut etc.
 
gav6280 said:
If you could manage that, you would have something very unique with a major selling point.

My dream dive light would be 1000 - 1500 lumen 4-6 deg beam with no side spill at all, and be a completely sealed system under normal use.

But access would still need to be possible in case the cable gets cut etc.
Click to expand...

it's the last "but" that keeps throughing me...

What is a real advantage over a system where the cable plugs into an RCA jack at either end? Canister and Head are still sealed and cable can be swapped at will...

Heck with a swappable canisters I could mix and match take the small one for day dives and the huge one for penetration dives. Or as others have done I could just take the cable out and direct connect them.


To be clear, I understand the desire for sealed canisters and heads, just not the end-2-end
 
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