CAUTION !! Misleading budget battery and lumen claims

thedoc007

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I know that a host the size of the K40 will allow that kind of dissipation. I have a modded TN31 with a 5mm*31mm copper heatsink that I made myself that will run for a while before getting too hot to handle. The topic lead me to believe that we were discussing a single 18650 host not a 3*18650 host, which based on your estimation of 15 minutes with a host that size would be pretty difficult to pull. My TN31 can run untill the batteries run out on Hi in any conditions less than 110F and still be held, but it has a massive copper heat-sink and is far from stock in relation to heat-sinking to the body of the light.

Yes, you are certainly correct that single-18650 lights are not going to run very long with an over-driven LED. But there wasn't any mention of size or configuration in the post I quoted...now that we have clarified what we are talking about, I think the situation is clear and we are in agreement.
 

BC FLASHLIGHT

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New member and would like to clear a few things up. I plan on purchasing a few Thrunight Flashlights. I want to get the best support batteries and chargers. I read this ENTIRE POST and was thoroughly schooled with the battery false claims. THANK YOU!

That being said, can the experts recommend some 18650 and CR123A batteries that are legit, reliable and decent priced? I have the cash for the batteries and just want to purchase the best batteries. I want the higher current rechargables.

I plan on purchasing the NEW NITECORE D4 Digicharger to maintain the batteries. It looks like it will provide the right info ( current/voltage and charge status) to properly maintain the right charge.

Thanks in advance

Bill
 

langham

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Can't give you links, but Illumn has great deals on good batteries and chargers. I like the NCR18650BD as a battery and the I4 charger is a lot cheaper than the Digicharger, but the Digicharger is a very nice setup.
 

Frisky Willy

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I see that this is an old and somewhat infrequently posted-to thread but, as a raw noob, the information and comments are MOST useful. My only LED light is an Ultrafire 502D (labeled as a WF-5020). After eading several threads in other forums along with this one, I have a much different view of flashlights.:

First, my 502D just won't run any more. This unit is probably an authentic Ultrafire as the build quality is very nice: glass lens; the threads are fine and smooth; the finish quite sturdy; the O rings seal it water tight; and it's built like a tank.

Second, the problem most likely is with the batteries. I have a dozen or so red-wrapped, 3,000 mAh, protected 18650 "Ultrafire" items and they do not hold a charge worth squat after perhaps a dozen charges with an expensive (circa 2007) Maha smart charger. The symptons exhibited by this defunct rig seem to match the problems detailed abaout fake batteries discussed in this thread.

Sooooooo.... I am going to get a new drop-in that will handle two 18650's, perhaps install a custom driver, AND buy some authentic, protected 18650 batteries. Hopefully this revision will raise my 502D from the dead and recommence lighting up the night.

I will update this post once the project is complete and the new set-up is fully tested.
 

keltbear

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Very helpful post. now ill know what to look for for my budget lights. kept wondering why my smaller light seemed much brighter then the larger one. ah fleabay.:thumbsdow
 

davidmiller

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I have seen claims of a 6000 lumen flash light that was about the size of a mag 2d flashlight. Alot of that is lies sold from china and hong kong. They dont have same sales regulation laws we have in the usa
 

JasonJ

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I have some of the red wrapped Ultrafire 3000mAh 18650's that came free with a light... tested them with my new BT-C3400 and they came up at 450mAh and 550mAh each. Pathetic.

I think they just pick a good sounding number and slap it on the wrapper.
 

CuriousOne

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Spare cells and extra "lithium" included in this camcorder battery :D

r526zN8.jpg
 

kwinter2000

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I'm surprised that I have not found anything in this thread about underwater use. I just joined the forum and am interested in more info. Lumens vs lux is a major bone of contention when it comes to underwater diving applications because of the different beam angles needed for different applications.
 

magellan

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Re: Caution budget battery and lumen claims : Tidbit

Well ... I see it this way:

Most "premium" flashlight makers are charging a premium price for their products, and those products are often over-engineered (and consequently over-priced) for the kind of casual use most of us subject them to. In fact, most high-end flashlights on the market today are engineered for use as "tactical" lights for military, law enforcement and emergency services personnel. Like with a Mercedes car, most of us don't really need the degree of strength and quality that's baked into those lights, but some people like the cachet associated with them and are willing to pay the price to "drive" the best.

In fact, most budget lights use Cree emitters, as stated, so the main desirable component is there. If the body of the light won't quite stand up to Taliban gunfire, the threads aren't ISO 9000 quality, the soldering is a little gobby, and the anodizing won't pass SOCOM standards, it really matters very little to most of us. What matters is that the price is low enough to allow us to have 3 or 5 of them for the price of one of the premiums.

Now, the batteries are an area where we have to be educated and a bit careful, since misuse or defective products can cause problems. But as long as we deal with reputable sellers and manufacturers we should be safe. And I don't label Ultrafire and Trustfire batteries as automatically suspect.

So I view budget lights more as "mainstream lights" than as inferior lights. But I don't drive a Mercedes, either. ;)

.
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Nice summary of the issues, thanks.
 

vincent3685

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Re: Caution budget battery and lumen claims : Tidbit

Lately, I am seeing claims for various kinds of batteries in the 4000-10000mah capacity. If I am allowed to post a link, here is one example;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-18650-1...9b5640&pid=100010&rk=3&rkt=22&sd=391220184258
Most of these brands posted on fleabay I've never heard of before. Anyone know anything about these batteries? Can someone please tell me if these mah claims are even possible? Has technology really improved that much in such a short time? At $2 apiece this seems waaaaay too good to be true.
 

HKJ

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uk_caver

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Re: Caution budget battery and lumen claims : Tidbit

Lately, I am seeing claims for various kinds of batteries in the 4000-10000mah capacity. If I am allowed to post a link, here is one example;[...]
Most of these brands posted on fleabay I've never heard of before. Anyone know anything about these batteries? Can someone please tell me if these mah claims are even possible? Has technology really improved that much in such a short time? At $2 apiece this seems waaaaay too good to be true.
You're right - the claims are currently impossible.
Not only would you be extremely lucky if they were anywhere even approaching the 3400-3600mAh of the best genuine cells, you'd be fairly lucky if they weren't recycled from dead equipment, and I wouldn't trust any claims from such sellers of cells, including whether cells were protected.
 

vadimax

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Re: Caution budget battery and lumen claims : Tidbit

Once upon a time have bought a couple of "Meco" 26650 batteries. Were cheap as dirt and I din't know then what does that mean.

Now I've got Opus BT-C100. Decided to check what I already understood is crap (Keeppower 5200 mAh runs roughly 4 times longer): declared -- 5000 mAh, test result -- a bit above 1600 mAh. Yeah, the crap it is :)
 

hsdesai

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Hi
I am a newbee and a novice
But I have a Q regarding led string light that have solar rechargeable batteries
Lasted 2 years for me
says ICR, 14500, 3.7v 400mah

Can someone please advice which batteries will suit for these replacements and where can I buy them from- there are heaps on ebay /aliexpress but am not sure which ones are reliable
Cant seem to find comments from buyers either
Hoping this forum members can throw some light on this

Other one I have is
600mah 1.2v NiMH batteries
Please advice
 

chrissybabe

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The second to last set of batteries (18650) I bought were Ultrafire rated at 3000maH. Testing showed them good for 800maH. The vendor said I had no idea what I was talking about and he had no complaints or returns. They were red and had 3 black bars on them. The last set I purchased were also labelled Ultrafire and rated at 3000maH. Testing showed about 2400maH and are about usual for cheaper cells (that actually make some pretense to be remotely "real"). Both bought here in New Zealand from Trademe. I will pull one of each apart when I have a moment to see whether they have lied about anything else as they both claim protection.
The 800maH cells weighed about 2/3 of the 2400maH so you can almost gain a fair idea of quality just by weighing them.
Also bought a couple of sets of nobrand 26650 rated at 4000maH. All cells tested of these are actually over this so there are good ones out there.
I label all cells with the date, where I bought it and capacity and retest every couple of years.

To test I discharge the cell at .32AH and time how long it passes this until the voltage drops to 3.3v. Then base the rating on an average voltage of 3.6volts. Not the most scientific but it gives a good feel for the quality of the cell and allows comparisons.

Re torches. Watch out for the lower cost torches especially if they are anodised (and they all are). Anodising is an insulator. So they take the bodies of the torches and biff them into the anodising bath. And they get a good coat and look good. Then you screw 2 halves together and wonder why the torch doesn't work. It is because they are using the joint between the two body parts as an electrical path with both surfaces actually being an insulator. Often they will work because somewhere a small piece of the anodising has punctured through somewhere on the other half making the contact. Tighten it gently and the contact disappears again. Uurgh. Best cure is to remove some of the anodising where both halves will touch when screwed up. You will find that some of these torches will never become reliable. I have found that the small single cell AA or 14450 torches have about a 50% failure rate (nobrand type).
 
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