Choosing new LR44 button cells for security alarm.

[IMA SOL MAN]

So I need to replace 3 LR44 button cells in a security vibration detector/alarm. I did some research online, and it appears the EverReady 375 has higher mAh than a lot of the other LR44's on the market. The device came with unbranded LR44's, so that doesn't help. Anyway, being that it is a security alarm, I want the longest lasting LR44 available. Anyone have an opinion on this?

 

[dc38]

So I need to replace 3 LR44 button cells in a security vibration detector/alarm. I did some research online, and it appears the EverReady 375 has higher mAh than a lot of the other LR44's on the market. The device came with unbranded LR44's, so that doesn't help. Anyway, being that it is a security alarm, I want the longest lasting LR44 available. Anyone have an opinion on this?

Get the one that will reliably last a certain time, not necessarily the longest. Good security requires constant vigilance and maintenance, and something like 70% of home alarm systems fail because one battery to an access point alarm failed. I would use the longer lasting ones if you will be unavailable for extended periods, like vacations or whatever, but you should be regularly checking your batteries.

 

[xxo]

silver oxide cells should last about 25% longer than alkaline LR cells.

 

[IMA SOL MAN]

silver oxide cells should last about 25% longer than alkaline LR cells.

Since this thing is going to be sounding an alarm, I want it to be as loud as possible, and for as long as possible, so I had decided to go with the silver oxide cells due to the higher mAh. The web page that I was reading stated that the Energizer 375 supposedly was very good in that way. Do you have any data comparing the different brands products?

 

[xxo]

No data, but I do remember that silver oxide is supposed to be about 25% more capacity than alkaline button cells the last time I researched this.

 

[aznsx]

What I just read from the quickest G-search <LR44 silver oxide vs alkaline> says:

Silver Oxide = higher capacity (mAh)
Alkaline = higher output current / drain

If that's true, that would make it the classic choice we're all familiar with dealing with for most cells we use around these parts. You can't optimize both - there's a prioritized decision to be made, as usual. Then again, being a G-search, that could be FI (fake intelligence) hogwash;-)

If this is an outdoor application, consider temperature as well (?).
I would try to find some manufacturer data sheets for the big picture.........

 

[Burgess]

So I need to replace 3 LR44 button cells in a security vibration detector/alarm. I did some research online, and it appears the EverReady 375 . . . .

I really think you mean # 357 cell, rather than # 375

I always use # 357 (which is Silver-Oxide)
instead of LR44 (which is Alkaline)

For Longer Life, and MUCH less chance of Leakage !

 

[dc38]

I really think you mean # 357 cell, rather than # 375

I always use # 357 (which is Silver-Oxide)
instead of LR44 (which is Alkaline)

For Longer Life, and MUCH less chance of Leakage !

Any difference in alarm volume?

 

[xxo]

could you convert the alarm to run on a larger LiFePo4 cell? A LI-ion might work also, but the Voltage under load might be too high.

 

[dc38]

could you convert the alarm to run on a larger LiFePo4 cell? A LI-ion might work also, but the Voltage under load might be too high.

Probably want a protection circuit, and a housing so it doesn't fall or get impacted...

 

[IMA SOL MAN]

could you convert the alarm to run on a larger LiFePo4 cell? A LI-ion might work also, but the Voltage under load might be too high.

Not worth the effort. I think the alarm only cost $9-$15 USD about 10 years ago. It may not even be worth buying new button cells for.

 

[TIFisher]

My only concern would be longevity of that platform. E.G.; I purchased some toys for my grandchildren last Christmas that only accept L43 coin cells. Rare as all get-out and no way they could be found in any B&M stores. Luckily I was able to order them thru A-zon, but I would never rely on that as a permanent outlet. As chemistry and supply varies, going forward I'll reserve my tech power choices for more consistently available options. I've switched my independent "alarm" devices to standard 1.5A or 3.0A (CR123) compatible platforms. I did the same for my daughter's house. Aside from hardwired options, I couldn't live with the thought of failed or inaccessible power sources impacting the safety of my family. This is just me, and may not contribute anything cogent to this discussion, but food for thought.