Roy
Farewell our Curmudgeon Administrator
Recived the Collimator LED Flashlight from www.shoplifestyle.com today! They sell this light for $49.95 which is, in my opinion, about $15.00 too much. The flashlight came in a plain, unmarked box that was the same size as the flashlight.
First impressiion is that it's a nice sized unit. It's about 1/4 inch shorter than an E2 and a bit wider than a ARC LS-123. The tail switch is either on or off with a loud "click". The pressure required to click the switch is around 3-5 pounds and can be manuipulated with the thumb with no problem.
Unscrewing the switch allows the battery holder to drop out. It holds 3 AAA Battries. Unscrewing the front bezel brings out the led assembly. The led is press fitted into the bezel and it is a Luexon Star (looks like one to me!).
Notice that the led appears to be off center!! The beam shot verifies that it IS off center. And the color of the light is about the same color as the coating on the led! Yellow-green I cannot tell if there is any regulation or no, but I doubt it!
The beam pattern has a pronounced white spot with dark yellow-green sploches surrounding the white spot. It appears to have a wider flood pattern than my SLS1 or my Ill PILL. Compaired the light output to my SLS1 and Ill PILL by lighting up a photo cell from 7 inches and measuring the mVdc indicated on a multimeter. Got the following results:
Collimator LED 210 mVdc
Ill PILL 230 mVdc
SLS1-123 210 mVdc
The paper catalog that came with the Collimator LED had a nice diagram of how a collimator works.
Added later:
It took 110 minutes for the photo cell reading to go from 210 mVdc to 105 mVdc. The battery voltage at the end of the run was 3.48 Vdc from a start value of around 4.4 Vdc. The run test was done with a fresh set of Energizer e2 Titanium AAA battries. During the first hour of the test the body of the flashlight got very warm and cooled down as the light output dropped.
First impressiion is that it's a nice sized unit. It's about 1/4 inch shorter than an E2 and a bit wider than a ARC LS-123. The tail switch is either on or off with a loud "click". The pressure required to click the switch is around 3-5 pounds and can be manuipulated with the thumb with no problem.
Unscrewing the switch allows the battery holder to drop out. It holds 3 AAA Battries. Unscrewing the front bezel brings out the led assembly. The led is press fitted into the bezel and it is a Luexon Star (looks like one to me!).
Notice that the led appears to be off center!! The beam shot verifies that it IS off center. And the color of the light is about the same color as the coating on the led! Yellow-green I cannot tell if there is any regulation or no, but I doubt it!
The beam pattern has a pronounced white spot with dark yellow-green sploches surrounding the white spot. It appears to have a wider flood pattern than my SLS1 or my Ill PILL. Compaired the light output to my SLS1 and Ill PILL by lighting up a photo cell from 7 inches and measuring the mVdc indicated on a multimeter. Got the following results:
Collimator LED 210 mVdc
Ill PILL 230 mVdc
SLS1-123 210 mVdc
The paper catalog that came with the Collimator LED had a nice diagram of how a collimator works.
Added later:
It took 110 minutes for the photo cell reading to go from 210 mVdc to 105 mVdc. The battery voltage at the end of the run was 3.48 Vdc from a start value of around 4.4 Vdc. The run test was done with a fresh set of Energizer e2 Titanium AAA battries. During the first hour of the test the body of the flashlight got very warm and cooled down as the light output dropped.