Colosssus Heatsink

cmacclel

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 15, 2003
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I machined a few heatsinks the other Day for a LED version of ModaMags Colossus light. Here are the results!

Machined from a 3.750 Solid

Video (Make sure you Full Screen it! Also you can hear the Constant Surface Speed machining)

http://www.vimeo.com/2871556

Pics Below:rolleyes:

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The MESS!

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3 heatsinks FILLED this whole box with chips with the flaps tapped up. And to fit them all in I had to jump up and down on the box!!

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I don't see a compound ( top slide ) or any handles.
Now I understand it's a CNC, but when you are prototyping,
how do you control tool movement?
 
Kewl :twothumbs

You gotta love how the vector drive decreases the rpm as part circumference increases, keeping the SFPM constant.

Synthetic coolant? What brand?

Are you using a high positive aluminum specific insert?
 
Kewl :twothumbs

You gotta love how the vector drive decreases the rpm as part circumference increases, keeping the SFPM constant.

Synthetic coolant? What brand?

Are you using a high positive aluminum specific insert?

I'm using Trim E206 Coolant mixed THICK at 8% the rust thing scared me :) The inserts are more for Stainless and harder metals but hey USA holder and 10 name brand inserts for $35 can be beat and the finish is very nice!

Mac
 
The inserts are more for Stainless and harder metals
I use a high positive, aluminum specific insert, and it's the best I've found (plus the cost is low). Made by Bison/TMX, called the CNMG-432 HA H01

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(click here for larger photo: http://www.latheinserts.com/images/1208911431339-1088049243.jpeg )

$54/10 inserts from http://www.latheinserts.com/product...520EF8.qscstrfrnt01?categoryId=43&productId=9

If you ever run these on your machine, you'll throw rocks at every other insert for aluminum turning.:twothumbs
 
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I use a high positive, aluminum specific insert, and it's the best I've found (plus the cost is low). Made by Bison/TMX, called the CNMG-432 HA H01

If you ever run these on your machine, you'll throw rocks at every other insert for aluminum turning.:twothumbs

Have you ever used the Sandvik inserts made for AL? How do the Bison ones compare to the Sandvik? I know the Sandvik are more expensive, though.
 
Outstanding video MAC!!!! Gotta get something like that in the future. The incredible finish.

Once again, PrecisionWorks, thank you for the link for the inserts. Would those work in any CNMG tool holder?

Fred, if you use Sandvik, got any insert numbers so we can all take a look at them?

Bob E.
 
Bob,

The Sandvik inserts that I've used are the ones ending with a "X", so CCGX, DCGX, SCGX and TCGX. They are uncoated carbide inserts with a positive rake, but I don't recall if these are just pressed inserts, or if they are polished as the Bison inserts that Precisionworks recommends. Certainly a polished insert will provide a better finish, although it may be a bit more fragile.
 
They fit any holder made for a CNMG4xx insert.

I'm going to buy those, and the Iscar, Valenite, etc., as soon as my PowerBall number is drawn:nana:


LOL :)

Ebay man EBAY!!:eek:

20 Sandvik Inserts and a brand new Sandvik 8" 1/2 carbide though coolant boring bar for $100!!!

Luckily without even realizing I also won a 5/8 10" Carbide bar and they both use the same inserts! So now I have 50 inserts between bars or 150 cutting edges :)

The new Sandvik bar said DO NOT USE set screws.....Hmm



Mac
 
Ebay man EBAY!!
95+% of my tools & tooling are eBay purchased. High Positive Aluminum Inserts are rare as hen's teeth on eBay, and they aren't yet really common with lots of manufacturers. Bison/TMX sent me a free "trial pack" containing three CNMG-4xx inserts - one general purpose, one for Titanium/Super Alloys, and one for aluminum. That's how I found out that they were available in the Bison brand. Nobody has a better price on them than LatheInserts.com.
 
I have 2 cuts from yesterday :) Pretty much toss em in a box and turn them in for scrap.


Mac

Although you have not asked for any advise, please excuse me suggesting that your chip breaker on your insets is not matched to the depth of cut and feed etc you are using. The chip breaker is close to or far away from the actual cutting edge dependant on the use of the insert for roughing or finishing. In the case of the picture you posted, the chip breaker is not in use. I am presuming that box of 'turnings' was all external. Can you imagine if the same style insert was used for boring. You would have to stop continually to sort out the tangled mess.

I am not an insert expert but the Sandvik " Metalcutting Technical Guide"
is without question the 'bible' and is free and worth getting.
 
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Although you have not asked for any advise, please excuse me suggesting that your chip breaker on your insets is not matched to the depth of cut and feed etc you are using. The chip breaker is close to or far away from the actual cutting edge dependant on the use of the insert for roughing or finishing. In the case of the picture you posted, the chip breaker is not in use. I am presuming that box of 'turnings' was all external. Can you imagine if the same style insert was used for boring. You would have to stop continually to sort out the tangled mess.

I am not an insert expert but the Sandvik " Metalcutting Technical Guide"
is without question the 'bible' and is free and worth getting.


Yes the stringy chips due pose a problem and I hope to get that sorted out some day but right now I have to much on my plate. The inserts I have are Denitool I definetly need to do some research.

Mac
 
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