Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

desert.snake

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I just found this topic yesterday and read it all, there were a lot of interesting observations here. Some time ago (0.6-0.7 year) I took care of lubrication for the lamps and used local products - medical petrolatum (it is safe, you can eat, but be ready for diarrhea), it is poorly suited as it flows out quickly and the threads become dry; I further tried lithium and calcium industrial lubricants, they flow from the lantern when it is heated to 40-50 degrees; I read about neogel somewhere on the forum, but it's not for sale here, then I bought Teflon-added silicone grease
***
Silicone grease ***** is a high-temperature silicone grease for low- and medium-loaded friction and rolling assemblies, bearings with a rotational speed of up to 5000 rpm. Uniform ointment of white color, a plastic consistence. It is long efficient at a temperature of 180 degrees C, briefly - up to 230 ° C. penetration at 25 C - 250-300 units. Colloidal stability - no more than 7%. Does not spread over the node. Slightly changes viscosity with temperature, does not oxidize and does not change properties under the influence of atmospheric oxygen. Due to the high inertia - does not affect the rubber .... .... COMPOSITION: dispersion medium - silicone fluid, ultrafine fluoroplastic, thickener, pigment.
***
Contrary to the instructions, it spreads very well on the threads and oozes out of them + in 2-3 weeks it dries out and you have to apply it again + it is poorly laundered from hands, clothes and is not washed off with alcohol and gasoline. Maybe I got a fake or a bad party this silicone grease.

About six months ago, I received from a friend a jar of super-moly grease and from that time I use only her. It does not spread, gives good water protection and smoothness when screwing / unscrewing the cap. Wear of thread I can not see. But there is a feeling that the rubber rings slightly absorb this grease and become slightly larger in diameter, it is about the ring on HDS lantern on body. Grease called "ARH Super-moly paste".
 

Nano-Oil.com

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I am OC and remove nyogel immediately when it turns grey. I remember reading that the particles that come off the threads and are suspended in the lube are oxidized aluminun, and the lube becomes an abrasive paste. Maybe someone can enlighten us on this.
The abrasive paste will form specially on new freshly machined threads so break in is advised,
to break in:
- use a lubricant of your choice, apply to male thread ,
- screw in you tail cap and while doing so push in on both body and end cap as you screw in, this will condition one side of the thread
- then unscrew while pulling . this will do the other side of the thread,

- very important to apply AS MUCH FORCE as you can and go back and forth,
this will create the abrasive paste in question but by doing so you have rendered both side of the thread much smoother
Now do a good job of removing the grey gunk on both the male and female threads, take you time and be thorough.
Use the best possible Anti Friction Lube you can find and reapply,
At this point, the grey aluminium gunk should not form at the same rate you experienced when first using the flashlight because you just kind of polished the threads with its own mating part (eliminating a lot of micro conflicts ).
Hope this helps, please let us know,
 
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jon_slider

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- screw in you tail cap and while doing so push in on both body and end cap as you screw in, this will condition one side of the thread
- then unscrew while pulling . this will do the other side of the thread

I tried this ^ approach using Nano Oil, and after Hundreds of twists, wiping off the blackened residue, and repeating, and repeating, it did NOT solve the gritty feel of the Titanium threads on my Thrunite AAA.

I use Krytox GPL 205 grease which is just PFPE oil and PTFE thickener with no additives.

I have not tried any of the Krytox products listed in the first post, but am curious.

Recently I bought Munky Spunk, which completely eliminated the galling gritty feel of my Thrunite AAA Titanium Twisty.

Has anyone here tried both a Krytox product and Munky Spunk, on Titanium threads?
IF you have tried Both, which one do you prefer, for Titanium?
 
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CREEXHP70LED

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I just did the first thread cleaning and re lube on my 3 Malkoffs. I actually used alcohol to remove the old black grease, and then put my Nyogel 760G back on the lights. It being a thicker lube than the Haynes lube, it is much smoother when screwing the threads on the head or tail cap. I am in no rush to switch to Haynes yet.
 

nzoomed

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Ok, just stumbled across this thread and now feel so much better its not just me having issues with rough, squeaky or binding threads!
Aluminium seems to be a terrible metal to cut threads on!
I have one maglite that has a very bad thread from the last owner who may have mistakenly cross threaded it. My mini maglite never had a nice thread on the tailcap from new either but i was always careful with it.
It seems that anodized threads dont have this issue.
I have some cheaper chinese lights with rough or squeaky threads too.

What lube does everybody recommend?
Should I go with nyogel or krytox?
 

TeronG

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Hello,
yesterday I received Olight I3E EOS and I3T EOS. They came in a factory sealed carton boxes. When I opened them to remove those little plastic washers breaking electrical circuit for transport I noticed the threads of both are wet with something like oil I think. Or is it something that leaked from batteries? Is it normal that new flashlights come with oiled threads? And what I am suppose to do with this if this is oil? For now I wiped it with clean wipe. Should I use isopropyl alcohol on them and then apply one of recommended greases or what?

p.s.
Sorry for newbie questions, until I found this thread today I didn't even know that flashlights require grease at all :thinking:
 

Nano-Oil.com

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Hello,
yesterday I received Olight I3E EOS and I3T EOS. They came in a factory sealed carton boxes. When I opened them to remove those little plastic washers breaking electrical circuit for transport I noticed the threads of both are wet with something like oil I think. Or is it something that leaked from batteries? Is it normal that new flashlights come with oiled threads? And what I am suppose to do with this if this is oil? For now I wiped it with clean wipe. Should I use isopropyl alcohol on them and then apply one of recommended greases or what?
p.s. Sorry for newbie questions, until I found this thread today I didn't even know that flashlights require grease at all :thinking:
I think it is almost impossible for both of the light to have a leaky battery, what are the odds, besides, they would have to be Alkaline for a potential leak
so first thing first, can you confirm the chemistry of the batteries, thx
 

TeronG

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Yes, the lights came with alkaline batteries. Some unknown brands. I threw them into battery recycle bin.
 

CREEXHP70LED

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Nov 5, 2016
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552
Hello,
yesterday I received Olight I3E EOS and I3T EOS. They came in a factory sealed carton boxes. When I opened them to remove those little plastic washers breaking electrical circuit for transport I noticed the threads of both are wet with something like oil I think. Or is it something that leaked from batteries? Is it normal that new flashlights come with oiled threads? And what I am suppose to do with this if this is oil? For now I wiped it with clean wipe. Should I use isopropyl alcohol on them and then apply one of recommended greases or what?

p.s.
Sorry for newbie questions, until I found this thread today I didn't even know that flashlights require grease at all :thinking:


Yes, it is normal for quality lights to come lubed, even some cheap lights come lubed. I would buy a tube of Nyogel 760G, or some Haynes Lubri-Film and lube the threads and the orings.

They will make the lights smoother to use and also help with water ingress to a degree. (If you lube the orings which you should to extend the life).

I know all of my Olights came lubed, but with a very light oil I believe, not a nice medium thick grease like Nyogel 760G. Haynes Lubri-Film comes on Malkoff lights which are very well made and while it is thinner than Nyogel, it works great. I think I prefer the thicker Nyogel, but to be honest they all work.
 

Buck91

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Recently started switching from Super-Lube grease to silicone after noting that the EPDM o-rings used by some manufactures are not compatible. Currently using 3M Silicone Paste which is great on o-rings but a bit too viscous for threads. Is there a good alternative silicone grease which is slightly thinner?
 

jon_slider

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Is there a good alternative silicone grease which is slightly thinner?

Nyogel 760G

some informative quotes from the first page:

"Pure Silicone grease: This is a very common lube that can be found just about anywhere. It is generally safe for use, with the only exception being use on silicone o-rings.

Nyogel is silicone grease
760G is tuned more for threads,

Nano-Oil: A highly-recommended lube by forum members. The lube uses oil as a carrier for nano-particles that are designed to act as a bearing surface
."


I have not tried 760G
I have been using Nano Oil on O rings and threads.. it is OK, but it dries out and then the light is harder to open.. not ideal
otoh, I like not having sticky greasy threads and orings...

let us know what works for you
 

louie

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My understanding is that Nyogel 760G is not a silicone grease.

I am not a grease expert, but in looking for information about various Nyogels, especially damping grease, I found various Nye documents that say:

-760G is a synthetic mineral oil, PAO (polyalphaolefin) grease, thickened with colloidal silica.

I have a Nye PDF TDS (technical data sheet) that states:
"Nyogel 760G - Copper deactivator, UV tracer - A silica thickened, medium viscosity, synthetic hydrocarbon grease for lubrication and protection of electrical contacts...Base oil, polyalphaolefin.... Ford: WSB-M1C239-A, GM: 9986087, DaimlerChrysler: MS-9469" and other specs. The car manufacturers all specify it to reduce contact fretting on electrical contacts. I'm not sure where I got the PDF, but can send it if you PM me. I'm not sure I'm allowed to post it.

My reading of this is that PAO is different than silicone.
Nye's site has a chart showing various synthetic oils they use, where silicones and PAOs are separate.
https://www.nyelubricants.com/technical-reference

(edit: clicking on the chart brings up a PDF version you can save and keep handy)

Any clarification by a grease expert is welcomed.
 
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jon_slider

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My understanding is that Nyogel 760G is not a silicone grease.
...
My reading of this is that PAO is different than silicone.
Nye's site has a chart showing various synthetic oils they use, where silicones and PAOs are separate.
https://www.nyelubricants.com/technical-reference

thanks for the link and excellent research
it shows that Nyogel is Fair for Silicone Orings and that Silicone is Poor for Silicone O rings.

So I agree with you, Nyogel is PAO, not Silicone. Thanks!

in both cases, Silicone O rings seem like a poor choice.

fwiw, my google showed Nyogel 760g being called Silicone, but dont believe everything you read on the internet.. LOL!
https://www.hkequipment.net/product-p/760g.htm
"NYOGEL 760G FLASHLIGHT SILICONE GREASE"

im still trying to work out if nano oil is ok to use alongside Lubri Film Grease or just stick to grease.
thanks

Im not aware of a problem w mixing, but I would want more info whether to avoid Lubri Film w certain O ring types, because it is petroleum based.

per the MSDS:
This product is a Food-Grade Petroleum Lubricant.
https://haynesmfg.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/16PTMSDSLUBRIFILM-2011.pdf
Note that mineral oil is considered food grade, even though it is an indigestible petroleum oil.

note also what it says on page 1, post #1, about petroleum lubricants:

Tekno_Cowboy said:
O-Ring Compatibility

Use caution when using petroleum products, as they can damage some types of o-rings.
Don't use silicone lubes on silicone o-rings. The o-rings can swell and make your light almost impossible to get open.

Im no expert, just like to google, so here is the MSDS for Nano Oil
https://nano-oil.com//Nano-Oil_MSDS_NLNA-5-10-85_20070415_.pdf

my reading is it contains PAO and Mineral Spirits (both are also petroleum products)..

so now Im wondering, what kind of O rings do my lights have, and is there an issue w Nano Oil w certain types of O rings?
 
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jon_slider

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Most of mine are Nitrile, if that helps.
P

thanks, it is helping me learn more
google sez Nitrile O rings are not affected by petroleum nor silicone
whereas silicone O rings should not me used w either lube type

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...and-o-rings!&p=2845636&viewfull=1#post2845636
kicken_bright said:
After doing a little bit of reading, I have come to this conclusion.
For silicone o-rings, you should not use petroleum or silicone products.
For Buna-N (aka Nitrile), you can use both petroleum and silicone products!
 

louie

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The only problem I've had with red silicone O-rings was with Superlube grease. It seems to be a silicone base, and started to dissolve the O-rings. No problem after going to Nyogel 760G.

I just stick to 760G, since I bought the large tube from Lighthound and will probably never use it all up. It's a decent lube, and is nice and clear so it doesn't leave stains. I also don't think the grease itself is conductive. I also ran across Nye documents describing how their greases don't insulate electrical contacts, the metals always bite through the grease.
 

Rossymeister

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The majority of my collection consists of hds lights. What brand of grease do they use?

Ive been using nyogel since 2008, and im looking for something a bit different.
 
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