Convoy light with Astrolux parts?

HaileStorm

Enlightened
Joined
May 19, 2012
Messages
560
Hi everyone!

I recently bought a Convoy S2+ XP-L HI 7135*8. It has the 3/5 mode fw which I really hate and I really need moonlight. So foe the first time ever, I'd like to change the driver of the light.

No experience whatsoever with this but if it's just minor soldering, I can probably undertake it.

My question is will the parts pictured below be compatible?

The driver is for the BLF X5, X6 and Astrolux S2 S3 SS SC according to the seller.

The lighted switch is for the same said models above as well.

Your help would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Here are the pics:
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579f5f94f4ed62fe797d07b11dde5e49.jpg
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c36b29ce406f08768e99e600cdf4de6b.jpg
 
Last edited:

thslw8jg

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Joined
Nov 15, 2007
Messages
261
Location
The Gulf Coast
It should work fine, driver is 17mm and will fit. You will have to remove(unscrew) the driver retaining ring and desolder the positive/negative contacts on the emitter MCPCB. You may want to use a copper DTP MCPCB for the emitter, running on hi with a FET driver will produce excess heat and can fry the emitter, also helps to use a good thermal paste under the MCPCB like arctic silver.
The tailcap mod will require purchasing a white nylon washer and a clear boot so the light can shine through.
Doing a spring bypass at the driver and tailcap springs reduces resistance and allows a few more amps through and use a good hi drain cell, a protected cell may trip the battery protection circuitry on hi, the X5/X6 driver has LVP built in the driver and turns the light off around 2.8v to prevent over-discharging the cell.

Good luck on your mod.
 
Last edited:

HaileStorm

Enlightened
Joined
May 19, 2012
Messages
560
It should work fine, driver is 17mm and will fit. You will have to remove(unscrew) the driver retaining ring and desolder the positive/negative contacts on the emitter MCPCB. You may want to use a copper DTP MCPCB for the emitter, running on hi with a FET driver will produce excess heat and can fry the emitter, also helps to use a good thermal paste under the MCPCB like arctic silver.
The tailcap mod will require purchasing a white nylon washer and a clear boot so the light can shine through.
Doing a spring bypass at the driver and tailcap springs reduces resistance and allows a few more amps through and use a good hi drain cell, a protected cell may trip the battery protection circuitry on hi, the X5/X6 driver has LVP built in the driver and turns the light off around 2.8v to prevent over-discharging the cell.

Good luck on your mod.

Thanks for your reply! What is a DTP MCPB?

Wow, it's more complicated than I originally thought... I didn't know thermal paste is needed... perhaps I should ask a professional electrician to do the job, there's a good chance I'm going to mess this up. I thought it was just a simple matter of soldering and desoldering of two wires.

The tailcap is relatively straightforward though. If I can find a nylon washer that is. Perhaps I'll just do that. Im having trouble liking this light because of its firmware.
 

thslw8jg

Enlightened
Joined
Nov 15, 2007
Messages
261
Location
The Gulf Coast
DTP is direct thermal path and the MCPCB is the metal core printed circuit board the emitter is mounted to. You can still use the original aluminum MCPCB that came with the convoy, you just need to desolder 2 wires, replace the driver and solder 2 wires. Using a good copper MCPCB with good thermal paste would improve thermal transfer from the emitter to the host.
Good luck on your first mod!!
 

iamlucky13

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 11, 2016
Messages
1,139
Jumping in because I'm looking at similar options to build a Convoy up using one of the hosts Mountain Electronics sells - Several 17mm Mountain Electronics drivers are compatible, starting with QLite at the entry level. You can have it configured with one 3 different user interfaces if I remember right. Max output will be similar to the S2+ stock, so there should not be thermal issues. Minimum should around 1 lumen. If you want lower low, look up the Moonlight Special.

Notes on the product pages there say you may need to trim down the inside of the driver retaining ring so it doesn't clash with the driver components. So the driver swap should be just a bit of soldering and some filing or Dremel work.

I might have to look into the Astrolux switch. I'm suddenly enamored by the idea of a light up tail cap.
 
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