Copper Tape - where to wrap

kimck99

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Mar 23, 2008
Messages
111
Hi,

So I've been reading that for drop-in modules, some have suggested using copper tape to "wrap" the drop in to ensure contact with the bezel for better heat transfer. Well, two questions:
  1. What does one actually wrap? :thinking: I can't seem to visualize where the tape would be wrapped around. Is is the outer most part of the drop in head? the part adjacent to the spring? It would be greatly appreciated if someone has a pic of where to apply the copper tape.
  2. Is this product a substitute for copper tape that one can use? They have it in 16mm and 24mm. What size do you recommend for a D26/P60 drop in (from nailbender)?
Thanks!
 
Hi,

  1. Is this product a substitute for copper tape that one can use? They have it in 16mm and 24mm. What size do you recommend for a D26/P60 drop in (from nailbender)?
Thanks!
This is not copper tape.
I cut strips of aluminium drink can and fit that inside the head until the drop in is a firm fit. Usually 1 and a bit wraps is enough.
Norm
 
This is not copper tape.
I cut strips of aluminium drink can and fit that inside the head until the drop in is a firm fit. Usually 1 and a bit wraps is enough.
Norm

Hi Norm,

So if I understand this correctly, you use copper tape (or alum foil) to 'line' the inside fo the bezel to make sure the pill makes contacts with the bezel. Is that correct? If so, it would seem to me that the surface area of the outer part of the pill/reflector seems rather small to make a difference. But I'm no thermal expert...

Thanks
 
The better quality drop ins usually have plenty of heat sinking built in...and will contact the body enough to work fine. You are not supposed to use a high power light as a candle light...then it will eventually get quite hot.
 
I bought a bunch of copper tape (1/2") with the conductive adhesive, and use 1 wrap on a P60 (most of the time) which gets it tight enough so that the spring does not force it out. It does seem to work quite well, body heats up quite a bit faster. I have a lot of it so if you want some PM me.

Marc
 
I am still using the heavy weight Al freezer foil, cut into strips. Works fine. Use it with my Malkoff's.

Bill
 
I use aluminum foil. I just fold it on itself twice and then cut it to the width I need. Then I wrap about 3 wraps, put the drop in into the light and see how it fits. Then I cut some off if its to tight or make a longer piece if its to loose.
Where to wrap? Below the slope of the bezel where it is flat. In the pictures below, it is between the black lines I have drawn. Hope this answers your question.

BTW I would use copper tape if I had any, but the foil seems to work just fine for now.

m60y.jpg



dropink.jpg
 
I use aluminum foil. I just fold it on itself twice and then cut it to the width I need. Then I wrap about 3 wraps, put the drop in into the light and see how it fits. Then I cut some off if its to tight or make a longer piece if its to loose.
Where to wrap? Below the slope of the bezel where it is flat. In the pictures below, it is between the black lines I have drawn. Hope this answers your question.

BTW I would use copper tape if I had any, but the foil seems to work just fine for now.

m60y.jpg



dropink.jpg

Thanks Jason!

That answered my question. Seems so obvious now but just couldn't get my head around what needed to be in contact.... :ohgeez:.

Much appreciated.
 
Hi Norm,

So if I understand this correctly, you use copper tape (or alum foil) to 'line' the inside fo the bezel to make sure the pill makes contacts with the bezel. Is that correct? If so, it would seem to me that the surface area of the outer part of the pill/reflector seems rather small to make a difference. But I'm no thermal expert...

Thanks
I line the inside of the head with aluminium from the can not foil. I use a strip about 3/4" wide and trim it so that when it is rolled the dropin is a firm fit, much better than mucking around with foil or copper tape. It will stay in place while I change dropins (although different dropins may require different length strip). It looks loose in the picture but the dropin holds the strip tight. To me this is the tidiest solution.

Link to my original post Improving heat sinking on P60 style drop ins.

stripx.jpg
strip2.jpg
stripinlight.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks norm for the link to your original post. Now I understand...
 
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