How do torque limiting extension bars work? Is there a clutch built into them? I'm old school/lazy and use a small drill motor with a light clutch to set my lugnuts, then do a patterned final tightening with my click-hand-torque wrench.
Cordless power tools
- Thread starter Buck91
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I've been using that drill for about a dozen years. I bought it to build a 16' long handicap ramp for my dog and have used it dozens and dozens of times since.
You can set it to be a screwdriver or set it for various clutch settings. It easily drove 8" (200mm) wood screws into the handicap ramp.
Last weekend I used it to drill about 20 holes at 1" in a steel barrel to use for burning scraps. No problem.
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Picked this spare battery for my 36V brushless air compressor.
Some guy tore it apart and said it has the Samsung 30T (21700) cells in it, 10 to be exact.
The capacity isn't 8Ah at 18V or 4Ah at 36V using the 30T cells,
I'm ok with the lower actual capacity of 3Ah at the full 36V output
The cheapest I could find 30T cells was $6 each,,,
so using the coupon it was a good deal at $59 for the battery pack.
** 30T are high Amp cells
edit: clarify runtime capacity of packs
Picked this spare battery for my 36V brushless air compressor.
Some guy tore it apart and said it has the Samsung 30T (21700) cells in it, 10 to be exact.
The capacity isn't 8Ah at 18V or 4Ah at 36V using the 30T cells,
I'm ok with the lower actual capacity of 3Ah at the full 36V output
The cheapest I could find 30T cells was $6 each,,,
so using the coupon it was a good deal at $59 for the battery pack.
** 30T are high Amp cells
edit: clarify runtime capacity of packs
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Sorry, I completely forgot to reply here. Meant to do it, then it slipped my mind.
Honestly, if the Milwaukee M12 BD-202C can do all of those things, it sounds way too powerful for my needs.
I would primarily need it to slowly and securely handle laptop screws. 3mm and the like. Including screwing them back in, without over-torquing or stripping heads.
I recently got my Dewalt DCF601 back, with a note and official stamp from the service center:
"Not a warranty repair. No fault found. Repaired on manufacturer's goodwill."
But I did get a new unit back. Which did feel way different than the one I sent in. And I had 2 carpenters feel the drill and give me their opinions before I sent it in, and both - and me - said there was something wrong with it. I call BS on the "no fault found", but I'll take the replaced unit, though the whole return note felt rather derogatory.
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The drill I spoke of would physically be way over sized for the task you cite. The clutch could possibly be set "soft" enough to not over tighten but agaiin just the size alone would make me not want to use it for that.
The drill I speak of is the same one as you have, right? The M12 BD-202C? I know there are several models (all of which looks almost identical to me), and I am not familiar with Milwaukee's product naming in the different regions.
M12™ Sub Compact Driver | Cordless Drill M12 BD | Milwaukee Tool EU
M12™ sub compact driver. High performance sub compact screw driver measures 175 mm in length making it ideal for working within confined spaces. REDLINK™ overload protection electronics in tool and battery pack deliver best in class system durability.
Size-wise the Dewalt DCF601 is perfect for me. It's just the build quality I'm not happy with, and on paper the BD-202C is the same weight but with supposedly superior build quality (all-metal gearbox, which is what I'm after).
But I am putting off any Milwaukee purchase for now, as I got a new DCF601 back in exchange for the one I sent in.
I've been looking at and trying smaller tools too, like the 10.8V and 3.6V options, but those are too uncomfortable to hold and use over longer periods of time.
I have the 2410-22 from about 2009 or so.
You can twist the front end to have clutch settings like a drag on a fishing reel or lock it to become a screw driver.
You can twist the front end to have clutch settings like a drag on a fishing reel or lock it to become a screw driver.
My apologies, I didn't mean to cause you hassle with the pictures and everything, but thank you very much. ❤️
This is of course the drill driver version, whereas I only need a driver, but I would assume the torque is identical in both versions.
I had to google the 325 in-lb to Nm (and found it to be the locally listed 30 Nm), and I also just found the explanation on why the images I found online didn't match when I searched for the model earlier.
I presume the "Milwaukee M12 2402-22" is the US designation
M12™ FUEL™ 1/4" Hex 2-speed Screwdriver
The M12™ FUEL™ 1/4" Hex 2-speed Screwdriver from Milwaukee Tool provides up to 10X longer motor life, 2X more power, and 4X more runtime.
www.milwaukeetool.com
...and "Milwaukee M12 BD-202C" being the EU designation.
M12™ Sub Compact Driver | Cordless Drill M12 BD | Milwaukee Tool EU
M12™ sub compact driver. High performance sub compact screw driver measures 175 mm in length making it ideal for working within confined spaces. REDLINK™ overload protection electronics in tool and battery pack deliver best in class system durability.
But why the colours are not the same, I have no idea. Unless it is only to differentiate between the EU and US models.
In any case, I cannot say whether 30 Nm is much too much for my needs, when the DCF601 specifically seems to have entirely different types of measurements depending on the region. With the US site only saying "200W" (whatever that is in terms of measurement of force without a load), and the EU site saying 8 Nm (which I, as a non-prefessional, call BS - it has to be more than just 8 Nm).
Watching this right now to hopefully get a final answer on the DCF601 actual torque:
EDIT: And the conclusion on the DCF601 torque is..."low battery" >-<
But after all this, I'm kinda set on the M12 BD-202C or 2402-22 or whatever. Seems definitely like a more "heavy-duty" version of the Dewalt DCF601, which is pretty much exactly what I want. The weight is about 300 grams more, but that's okay.
...Yes, I work with IT, but I can handle a single kilogram, thank you very much. Can even handle 50 of them, up a staircase, if I have to. ^^
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alpg88
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2005
- Messages
- 5,522
M12 is a very good drill. I bought one for my father in law, and sent it overseas, when i visited him last summer he said he like it very much, thou even if he did not, he probably would not tell me, just to be polite, i probably would not, if we switched places, however our AC crew uses them on service calls, they are very happy with them, if they were not they would be carrying something else.
My makita 18v drill failed few days ago, I was using a 2 1/2 inch hole saw, and in 2nd gear it started to slip, felt like like gears were stripped, under light load it works ok, but under heavier load of a large hole saw, it starts slipping, however it does not slip in 1st gear. drilling holes in gear 2 does not cause it to slip, for now. I looked up parts store and entire gearbox is like 34 bucks, so not expensive to fix if i decide to.
My makita 18v drill failed few days ago, I was using a 2 1/2 inch hole saw, and in 2nd gear it started to slip, felt like like gears were stripped, under light load it works ok, but under heavier load of a large hole saw, it starts slipping, however it does not slip in 1st gear. drilling holes in gear 2 does not cause it to slip, for now. I looked up parts store and entire gearbox is like 34 bucks, so not expensive to fix if i decide to.
Seems if a person just wants a few cordless tools, maybe bought one at a time, Milwaukee would be their best bet. I do like Ryobi for the price and HUGE selection that works off of the same in-house battery. But it's clear that some of their cordless tools are very underpowered.
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If you search 2 Pcs Milwaukee 48-11-2430 M12 Red Lithium CP 3.0 Battery Free Shipping NEW! on ebay,,
you can get two genuine Milwaukee CP3.0 batteries for $49 free ship
Those are 3Ah at 12V
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Good info on Milwaukee batteries and the type of cells in them (18650 or 21700)
note: High Output ones
gives Model Numbers which helps in search for best price..
www.protoolreviews.com
Good info on Milwaukee batteries and the type of cells in them (18650 or 21700)
note: High Output ones
gives Model Numbers which helps in search for best price..
All Milwaukee M18 Batteries Compared: High Demand, High Output, 5 Ah, 12 Ah, and Everything in Between!
We have all Milwaukee M18 FUEL batteries compared including Compact, Extended Capacity, High Demand, High Output, and everything in-between.
www.protoolreviews.com
alpg88
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2005
- Messages
- 5,522
Milwaukee 9AH battery is complete trash, IDK what cells they used, but they are crap, plenty of bad reviews on that one, I have 1 and it no longer fully charges, if can sit on charger forever but it will not charge above 3 bars (there are 4). There isn't 9ah batteries available anymore. so if you see a 9ah for a really good price, NOS, walk away.
Hooked on Fenix
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2007
- Messages
- 3,499
Agreed. The only Milwaukee batteries I've had fail are the 9 amp 18 volt. Bought three. One died without much use. Took it apart to salvage remaining 12 good cells for flashlights (one cell from each of 3 sets of five in series had died). A second battery had one cell or more in one of the sets of 5 die dropping it down to 6 amps. One still works as a 9 amp. All of them were using 15 amp rated Samsung 30Q 18650 cells. These 9 amp batteries were later upgraded by Milwaukee to use 20 amp rated LG 18650 cells. Those are likely better. All of my 1.5 amp, 4 amp, 5 amp 18 volt and all of my Milwaukee 12 volt batteries still work (though the 3 amp compact and 6 amp often get the bad battery warning before they will charge-same cells). Batteries are 7-10 years old with the 9 amp 18 volt and 3 and 6 amp 12 volt ones being the newest. Probably going to have to start replacing my batteries in the next year or two. Most reliable and longest lasting I think are the 5 amp 18 volts. They originally had them advertised as having 2000 charges. Newer cells they only claim around 300-500 charges.
Just had my first 12 volt Ridgid compact 1.5 amp battery quit on me. Got into Ridgid tools a little before Milwaukee due to cost (only $50 for an impact) and power (drills blew away Milwaukee at the time). I think they use Molicel batteries. All of my Ridgid 12 and 18 volts have been rock solid for a decade.
Have 4 4 amp 18 volt Ryobi batteries as well and none have failed. So, yes my experience shows that the early generation Milwaukee 9 amp batteries and others that use the same in 12 volt line do suck, and up to that point, it was just those batteries. Haven't bought anything newer so can't say whether or not if everything went downhill after that or if it was just those cells. I can tell you definitively that Samsung 30Q cells are not up to par with the rest.
Our newest cordless power tool. It's our first electric mower.
Cool!
Our seven-year-old Honda had a leaking seal in the transmission. I was informed that it was an expensive repair sans any warranty that the new seal would last. A new tranny would be $500.
The Honda experienced some drastic weight reduction and now identifies as a push-mower.
Some of you probably saw my post in the other power tools thread, the one showing a new DeWALT cutoff saw. It went through those hardened steel axles just like a hot knife through butter ..... only with a poop-ton of sparks. ⚡⚡⚡⚡⚡⚡⚡
