Couple of questions about 6P and dropin

flashlight chronic

Enlightened
Joined
Nov 5, 2011
Messages
474
Location
Kapolei, HI
Guys, sanding or filing the Malkoff a little will be fine, even in an MD2. If you have problems when using it in another module, just wrap it in aluminum or copper (tape or strips) for a snug fit. This will help make contact w/ the body and ensure good heat sinking as well.
 

Dr Forinor

Enlightened
Joined
Apr 10, 2008
Messages
211
Location
Scotland, UK
Guys, sanding or filing the Malkoff a little will be fine, even in an MD2. If you have problems when using it in another module, just wrap it in aluminum or copper (tape or strips) for a snug fit. This will help make contact w/ the body and ensure good heat sinking as well.

I'm sorely tempted to remove about 1mm from the brass module dropin at the spring end.
 

Woods Walker

The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
Joined
Jun 8, 2008
Messages
5,433
Location
New England woods.
I believe this is to ensure the drop-in will always have proper contact and is part of the design. It has zero impact on waterproofing and operation beyond doing what it is intended for.
 

Dr Forinor

Enlightened
Joined
Apr 10, 2008
Messages
211
Location
Scotland, UK
I go to the beach a lot and spend time there in the dark where I use my lights. With my Malkoff MD2 there were sand grains everywhere, I guess I'm concerned it will be worse with this gap.
 

Woods Walker

The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
Joined
Jun 8, 2008
Messages
5,433
Location
New England woods.
I'm gonna give it a go at sanding down the height of the Malkoff, with wet and dry sandpaper.

I would not do that. Remember it is fitting as designed for 100% (within the context of what is possible IMHO) reliable function. You risk reducing what Malkoff is all about for no real gain. After years of use I have yet to find a situation beach included as to which this micro gap was a problem on any level. Even my OCD is ok with it as it fears not working gear over anything else.
 
Last edited:

Dr Forinor

Enlightened
Joined
Apr 10, 2008
Messages
211
Location
Scotland, UK
I might be off to the beach again this week so will test out the gap as it is on the 6P right now :)
 
Last edited:

Woods Walker

The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
Joined
Jun 8, 2008
Messages
5,433
Location
New England woods.
Forgot to add this. The more you mess around with that drop-in outside of the host the greater the chance of getting a nice juicy finger print on the reflector or grit from sanding and dust as well.
 

bykfixer

Flashaholic
Joined
Aug 9, 2015
Messages
20,212
Location
John 3:16
If the gap is your concern for grit perhaps you can add an over-sized o-ring

Here

Or if you really want the drop in to seat better you can file a chamfered edge

Like this

To make it fit into the body a bit more

Make it fit into the 'stop' a bit better
 

novice

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 19, 2006
Messages
1,033
Will a microfiber cloth not fix this?
I am not very experienced in this, but it is usually not considered a good idea to touch a good quality light reflector with anything. It is too easy to scratch it. If you get a fingerprint smudge on it, leave it alone, because you will very probably scratch the reflector trying to get rid of the smudge. Some people even advise against using canned air on grit, because of the danger of scratching the reflector by blowing grit across it. Some people will attempt to rinse grit with distilled water, and then letting it air-dry. I will use certain synthetic cloths on my acrylic (?) lens eyeglasses, but I wouldn't do it to a Malkoff reflector.
 

bykfixer

Flashaholic
Joined
Aug 9, 2015
Messages
20,212
Location
John 3:16
X infinity on not touching the reflector.

Many times the resulting scratches are more noticable in the beam than the smudge was.
Bottom line... be very careful if you decide reshape the drop in.

I re-shaped a Malkoff drop in to go into a Pelican light. Before doing any dremel work I carefully placed a covering over the outside of the reflector. It was 3 strips wide 1" wide painters tape laid on a table, sticky side up.
Then I placed the drop in face down onto the tape that was larger than the circle, picked it up and using a downward motion applied excess tape to the outside of the drop in. Then I set about removing the extra metal. Painters tape isn't all that sticky so removal is easy.

If you don't have painters tape any tape placed onto a pants leg or t-shirt then removed a couple of times will pick up enough lint to lose much of it's stickyness.
 
Last edited:

scs

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 9, 2015
Messages
1,803
When you changed the O-rings, did you get standard ones or uprated ones?
According to my calipers, the stock ones were below specs. Their replacements, from Lighthound, may it howl again, right on.
 

Dr Forinor

Enlightened
Joined
Apr 10, 2008
Messages
211
Location
Scotland, UK
According to my calipers, the stock ones were below specs. Their replacements, from Lighthound, may it howl again, right on.

Given that Lighthound doesn't exist any more, any advice where to get good ones from?

------

Thank you all for the advice. I think I'm gonna try it out first in situations that has me initially concerned, and then decide from that. I might just go for an oversized O ring, seems to be the simplest (and most reliable in the long run) option in this case.
 

Latest posts

Top