Custom SF Type Body Bulb/LED Questions

[mkgunz]

Greetings all. I'm new to modding lights but am an enthusiast of lights.

I recently acquired three custom Surefire type bodies. Two are M4 sized but look like the M3 (with the finger ring). The third is an E series but holds three batteries.

My question is, what bulb or LED can I use with the E Series? Can I use a factory E2 Surefire LED head with out fear of damage? I have a Z58 (I think) tail cap already.

I'm trying to locate two Turbo Heads (nothing in the Marketplace so far) for the M4 bodies and already have the tail caps and one MN60 bulb.

Thanks for the help.

 

[gswitter]

There aren't a lot of options for E-series bulbs or LED heads that run on 9V, and I can't think of any that are off-the-shelf. Assuming you have or want to use a stock E-series incan bezel, the only bulb option I can think of is the Streamlight TL-3 bulb using one of fivemega's bi-pin adapters.

I don't know if any of the Surefire E-series LED heads can handle 9V. Maybe some of the 2-cell LED heads, but definitely not the old KL4. Modding (or getting some one to mod) an existing head with a driver that can handle the extra voltage is doable, as is assembling a compatible head with parts from the Sandwich Shoppe, etc.

Most of the requests for 3-cell E-series bodies come from people looking to run 2xAA (approximately the same length as 3xCR123A). With a pair of AA NiMH rechargeable cells, you can probably run most 1-cell LED heads.

Ultimately, if you want to maximize your options with the 3-cell body, your best bet is probably a E2C adapter and a C-series bezel. There are plenty of C-series lamps and LED drop-ins that can handle 9V.

 

[mkgunz]

Yes I do want to stick with the E series head or something similar. I tend to carry the E2 more than my other lights, even at work, as it is smaller and lighter.

I found this LED head on another forum. I called and they said I would be fine using it with three CR123's. It's a little larger than desired but, I might go with it unless I can find a E2 head in the MP for a decent price.

It's rated for 220 Lumens with approx 2 hours run, using 2 CR123's.

http://www.tacticalnightvision.com/PDF/illumination/LED-CONV.pdf

 

[gallonoffuel]

If you're comfortable modifying a stock E-series incan head, or having someone do it, and you don't care about the beam shape, you can do what I did to make an E2DL with the old style incan bezel.

You'll have to unscrew the bezel from the E-series head to do it properly, but here's the general idea. If you look at an E-series incan head from the bottom, you'll see a cylindrical post that the stock bulb slides into and gives the bulb the proper focus in the reflector when it's bottomed out. If you machine this post (I used a drill, but a mill would be better) flush so that's the inside of the head is flat, you can purchase SKU 11810 from DealExtreme, unscrew the LED pill, and it'll fit relatively well inside the incan head. I just sit mine in there and screwed the head on the body. You can now run 3-12v with that E-series head. The tint is a little bit blue, and the beam pattern is ALL FLOOD. There is literally NO hotspot. But it made it possible to have over 1 hour runtime on my E1D lego.

ASCII illustration because I don't have the pictures handy:

POST:
|          |
|____||____|
|  /    \  |
| /      \ |
|/        \| Reflector

NO POST:
|          |
|____  ____|
|  /    \  |
| /      \ |
|/        \| Reflector

 

[gallonoffuel]

Some notes:

The modified E-series head (cutting the post off) can be reverted back to using normal incan lamp assemblies by going to home depot/lowes and buying some nylon spacers of the correct internal diameter and cutting them to the proper length. Slip them over the lamp assembly and you can put the light back together the way it used to be.

The DX module I recommended is required because it's physically smaller than other P60 dropins. That particular item allows the brass pill containing the LED and driver circuit to be placed completely inside the head. Regular P60 pills are too large.

There will be a slight gap between the bezel and the head when you have the pill installed. It happens to be a great place to install a GITD o-ring.

 

[gswitter]

Yes I do want to stick with the E series head or something similar. I tend to carry the E2 more than my other lights, even at work, as it is smaller and lighter.

I found this LED head on another forum. I called and they said I would be fine using it with three CR123's. It's a little larger than desired but, I might go with it unless I can find a E2 head in the MP for a decent price.

It's rated for 220 Lumens with approx 2 hours run, using 2 CR123's.

http://www.tacticalnightvision.com/PDF/illumination/LED-CONV.pdf

Interesting. I'd never noticed that head could handle up to 10v before.

BTW, there's a review thread for that line of aftermarket LED heads here.

 

[gallonoffuel]

I figured I'd follow up my post with some pictures in case anyone else was interested in what I did.

The pills, regular P60 style on the left, smaller DX cree p4 pill on the right

The post drilled out

The fitment of the pill

The beamshot (about 6 inches from the surface). Told ya it was all flood.