Custom Surefire® Lego Parts M|C|Z|P|G: Adaptors, Extenders, Bezels, Bodies, Tailcaps

ElectronGuru

ElectronGuru

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Now available:

Factory/stock A19 extenders
(no bore, no HA)
 
ElectronGuru

ElectronGuru

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Important announcement:

PayPal has requested we stop accepting personal/cash payments through their system.

We are now working to update our threads to comply. This may include changes to prices and payment instructions.
 
rikvee

rikvee

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ElectronGuru,

your packaging is very neat & effective!

Thank you again :thumbsup:

looking for another yellow G3-body and
a bored A19 fact black extender....
 
ElectronGuru

ElectronGuru

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ElectronGuru,

your packaging is very neat & effective!

Thank you again :thumbsup:

looking for another yellow G3-body and
a bored A19 fact black extender....

:thumbsup:


We have A19's in HA but are temporarily out of the type II version. We'll be getting more (and the G3) in coming weeks.
 
PinarelloOnly

PinarelloOnly

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:takeit: :paypal: THANKS!!!
#4 - Z44-HA-BK bezel factory black - $32

#8 - Z49-BK clicky black - $42

PM Sent. to add to previous order.
 
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J

jdriller

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:paypal: for the following:

#4 - Z44-HA-BK bezel factory black - $32 available
#12 - ss bezel ring - silver - $16 (smooth)
bezel ring removal tool $4
1st Class w/confirmation, $4 per order
Total = $56 (4%) = $58.25 Thanks!
 
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ecallahan

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Paypal sent for:

#7 - G series McClicky Tailcap Black - $39

USPS Priority - $7

Total $46

Thanks!
 
ElectronGuru

ElectronGuru

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Most of this thread, now available via our new website:





Questions and comments welcome :wave:
 
ElectronGuru

ElectronGuru

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I'm wanting a Nitrolon bezel for a G2Z, with the blued/black strike bezel.

Here's a preview of coming attractions:


18yqs6.jpg
 
S

sfca

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Here's a preview of coming attractions:

18yqs6.jpg


Instead of starting a new thread.. might as well ask here.

Why are nitrolon bodied lights such a big thing? They are lighter but don't conduct heat very well..
Hmm... a light flashlight with a low powered drop-in. Did I just answer my own question??

Q2: any possibility (like anywhere) of a crenelated bezel for the M2 head. Man, I'd really like to see that!
 
Gryffin

Gryffin

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Why are nitrolon bodied lights such a big thing? They are lighter but don't conduct heat very well..

Apparently, the head is the main heat dissipater, which is why the newer G2L's have aluminum heads.

Besides the light weight, the waffle pattern molded into the body makes for a VERY secure grip, more so than the usual machined knurling on aluminum bodies, but it's not as abrasive as coarse knurling either. And of course, if you use your flashlights in the winter, nitrolon is a lot friendlier on skin in sub-freezing temps.
 
ElectronGuru

ElectronGuru

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Why are nitrolon bodied lights such a big thing?

if you use your flashlights in the winter, nitrolon is a lot friendlier on skin in sub-freezing temps.

I'd say they have a following. If we imagine that 20% of SF purchasers buy G2's, even if only 25% of CPFers buy SF, that will still look like a big deal (total thread activity). The thing to keep in mind is that there is no single best anything for everyone. The config above, for example, is for a fellow who specifically wants a metal cren ring mounted to a hex style Nitrolon bezel. Its a unique request and special enough to photograph and share.

Pluses for G2/G3s include lower price, cold temp use, less weight, more grip, and silly tough. You can drop it in a box full of heavy steel tools and expect it to hold its own. Two (big) negatives are lack of 18mm cell support and heat insulation.



Apparently, the head is the main heat dissipater, which is why the newer G2L's have aluminum heads.

I think of it as a marketing problem. A drop in, fully seated into a body, which itself has more metal than a bezel, will make a better heatsink. But a metal bodied light can no longer be called a G, while a metal bezel still can.


any possibility (like anywhere) of a crenelated bezel for the M2 head. Man, I'd really like to see that!

We have big plans for the M2 bezel. We're looking into it.
 
S

sfca

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I'd say they have a following. If we imagine that 20% of SF purchasers buy G2's, even if only 25% of CPFers buy SF, that will still look like a big deal (total thread activity). The thing to keep in mind is that there is no single best anything for everyone. The config above, for example, is for a fellow who specifically wants a metal cren ring mounted to a hex style Nitrolon bezel. Its a unique request and special enough to photograph and share.

Pluses for G2/G3s include lower price, cold temp use, less weight, more grip, and silly tough. You can drop it in a box full of heavy steel tools and expect it to hold its own. Two (big) negatives are lack of 18mm cell support and heat insulation.

I think of it as a marketing problem. A drop in, fully seated into a body, which itself has more metal than a bezel, will make a better heatsink. But a metal bodied light can no longer be called a G, while a metal bezel still can.

We have big plans for the M2 bezel. We're looking into it.

Daaamn I love posting on your threads! So informative. :twothumbs:twothumbs

What training or courses can one take to put draft your own plans, send them to the shop and get it made?
 
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kengps

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Hey ElectronGuru, I recently got a HA III Z2 host from you guys and I'm wondering why in the world is the inside annodized also? That stuff is really hard to sand down for proper contact with drop-ins. Did my host get thru missing a step in manufacture?
 
Moddoo

Moddoo

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Hey ElectronGuru, I recently got a HA III Z2 host from you guys and I'm wondering why in the world is the inside annodized also? That stuff is really hard to sand down for proper contact with drop-ins. Did my host get thru missing a step in manufacture?

Your host should look like this. The Drop-in contacts the bottom of the cavity.

TiCapsules1.jpg


Please let me know if it does not.
 
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kengps

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I does look like that, but I have many drop-ins that don't contact that ring. The only thing that consistantly has contact with my drop-ins is the very end where the host grips the reflector edge. I just sanded that down. Problem solved. From what I hear the annodizing can interupt heat transfer quite a bit? I figure that sanding that down will help transfer heat from the reflector body to the host also. Thanks for getting back to me.
 
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purelite

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I think that is why most p60 hosts come with a larger out spring which helps with contact issues?

I dont think HA inhibits heat transfer enough to notice ,I could be wrong though I dont know anything.
 
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kengps

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I did see recently on the forum a poster who said he tested heat transfer rates thru annodizing vs bare aluminum, and it was a big difference. 15 times better heat tranfer IIRC. I don't like to use the drop-in spring. Just another source of resistance. I tested a Mcklicky switch spring on a direct drive SST-50 at 3.0 amps couple days ago, and when I attached the wires at the base and the end of the spring it got really hot. I moved the wire down each coil and could see the light meter indicate lower each time. I was surprised to see that as I was using about 30" of 26 ga wire, and thought for sure the wire of the spring would pass a lot more voltage than the wire without heating. I really wonder about the resistance issue vs the driver regulation. Does resistance in the host help the driver to shed voltage to the LED more efficiently... than running all the voltage thru the driver with lower resistance in the host? IOW is the driver more or less efficient than heating the springs to shed voltage to meet Vf to the LED??
 
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Swagg

Swagg

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I bought this head, M2-HA-BK bezel with pyrex lens, factory type III (HA) aluminum. I was curious, can the lens and inside rings handle the high temps of FMs 1909? I bought it for this bulb but then I realized that might run to hot for this head. Can anyone answer this question?
 
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