D10 or EX10... if you could have only one?

BabyDoc

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-The switch feels and works better than the 3 other EX10s -I've sampled. Especially the 2 from the 2d batch. They're made different than my original from the first run.

I have a couple of questions about your statement. First of all, I didn't realize that there was a second run of the EX10's. I know that 4Sevens had run out of the D10's for a while and now has a second run of the D10's. I thought he was still selling EX10's from the first run.

Anyway, since you seem to see a difference in the EX10's you have, what IS the difference you see in the way the newer EX10s are made? 4Sevens never mentioned a difference in the second run of lights, and you are the first one to post a difference in the way these lights are now made, other than the sample variation that comes with any light.
 

roymail

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Thanks for all the answers on this thread.

Several have mentioned using LSD NiMh cells in the D10. I'd like to hear more about how well they perform. That seems like an attractive combo to me.
 

Bradlee

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Although I would have enjoyed getting both, in the end I settled with the D10. I prefer the slimmer, longer profile of AA lights, although to be honest, I have never held the EX10. Furthermore, I have some Eneloops that I will use extensively with the light.

+1...Same reasons for me.
 

bagman

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I went for the D10 for a few reasons;

I have loads of single 123A EDC lights already and wanted to try a AA one (I do have a Defender Infinity but the sharp bezel rules out pocket carry unless it is in its holster which increases the size too much.

The decreased width of the AA light over a 123 bases one I thought would make for a better pocket carry EDC (which it does, I've carried it as my EDC since it arrived a week or so ago and you dont really notice its there)

Versatility of battery options (I bought 14500's for the Defender so it is running those but the ability to just go a buy cheep AA's if needed is a big plus, but I also always have NiMh AA's in the car for the kids walkmans so I should never have to go and buy batteries for it)
 

Lite_me

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I have a couple of questions about your statement. First of all, I didn't realize that there was a second run of the EX10's. I know that 4Sevens had run out of the D10's for a while and now has a second run of the D10's. I thought he was still selling EX10's from the first run.

Anyway, since you seem to see a difference in the EX10's you have, what IS the difference you see in the way the newer EX10s are made? 4Sevens never mentioned a difference in the second run of lights, and you are the first one to post a difference in the way these lights are now made, other than the sample variation that comes with any light.
When I ordered my 2d (actually 2 more) EX10s they were on pre-order again just like the D10s. If you'll look at the D10/EX10 registry thread you'll see EX10's with serial #s higher than 500. (the org batch) My 2 from the 2d order are also over 500.

Looking at the pic, besides the obvious differences of the chips on the board, there are a couple of changes that effect the feel of the piston switch on the latest batch.

A) The center contact button is slightly taller than on the original. It actually extends up higher than the brass ring. The org does not.
(In my experience it makes the button press harder than my org one)

B) The brass ring has less clearance to the board than the first. This makes the throw of the piston shorter for switching. Much shorter than my org one.
(My org one has a nice long throw with a predictable feel to it.)

This makes the two from the 2d batch have a shorter & harder feel to the piston switch with little feedback.

I've done all the cleaning & lubing many times but what works best is to just remove the o-ring from the piston. Then, the switch feels and works... ok, although still somewhat short on the throw to my liking.

I of course have no idea why these changes were implemented.

And I apologize for the hijack here, but BabyDoc asked a good question. And it is related to why I'd choose the D10.

exdiffao2.jpg
 
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BabyDoc

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Lite_Me, thanks for your good explanation. I am a bit disappointed to hear there are changes in the recently shipped Ex10's. I was so undecided about whether to purchase the Ex10 or the D10, I was actually going to buy both. I like the removable, stainless bezel on the EX10, but your experience with switch issues on them, convinces me, the D10 is the way to go. Hopefully, similar changes weren't made on the new D10s.

If 4Sevens is monitoring this thread, perhaps he could explain the reasons for changes that have been made in the new runs.
 

jbviau

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I just RMAed my first EX10 and received a replacement with a serial number >500. It's different from my first EX10 in exactly the ways your picture shows, Lite_me. However, my new EX10 actually works much better than the original. I have no piston problems to speak of. The only issue is an overly big o-ring on the head, which makes twisting difficult (even after cleaning off the factory lube).

Anyway, for what it's worth, in my experience the changes to the EX10 would not make me hesitate to recommend it.
 

Lite_me

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I just RMAed my first EX10 and received a replacement with a serial number >500. It's different from my first EX10 in exactly the ways your picture shows, Lite_me. However, my new EX10 actually works much better than the original. I have no piston problems to speak of. The only issue is an overly big o-ring on the head, which makes twisting difficult (even after cleaning off the factory lube).

Anyway, for what it's worth, in my experience the changes to the EX10 would not make me hesitate to recommend it.
I'm happy to hear you like your replacement. Without going back to check, I've forgotten what problems you were experiencing with the first one. Too many posts! :huh:

It just that for me, like I stated in my previous post (somewhere), the second two that I ordered for friends did not exhibit the same characteristics as mine when working the switch. I could say, the first one I received was perfect. The second two were harder to push, with shorter travel. And after freshly lubing and getting them to move freely, if you let it sit for awhile, it would develop stiction. That was somewhat frustrating after you think you have it pretty much worked out. But then, working the button a half dozen times or more seemed to loosen it back up again. Excluding the shorter travel, I just think it's the wrong o-ring for the job.
 
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