Hey all, thanks for so many responses! This is super helpful. I'm mostly collecting feedback and don't plan to "defend" my current light, but I did want to point out that I have LED choices available and explain why I chose the nickel finish...and then we can move on
First up, I posted my list of available LEDs on the sales thread
last week so check it out if you haven't had a chance. This covers neutral MCE, XML and High CRI-90 XPG
These are available only to CPF members and NOT through my website.
Second: the nickel finish. The main reason I chose nickel is because of it's engineering advantages (the polish is just for fun).
- 100% coverage: I do not have to machine the surface coating away to expose bare metal for electrical contact. This exposes those surfaces to excessive wear and the potential for oxidation. This is NOT acceptable in a light that is built with long term service in mind...and removing anodize seems like a "duct tape" solution at best.
- thermal conductivity: Anodize is a poor thermal conductor. Nickel is excellent. This means my entire light (including the body) becomes part of the thermal path and will shed far more heat through conduction to your hand than with an anodized light. This also allows me to use a solid head (no pill) because I'm mounting to a thermal conductor (nickel) instead of a thermal insulator (anodize).
- electrical conductivity: once again, a reason to machine through the anodize layer. I'll give you "tailcap lockout" as a potential bonus feature to anodizing. However, as those machined (raw aluminum) surfaces are exposed to the environment over the years...the electrical resistance will increase as the exposed aluminum oxidizes. Of course if you never actually use the light, that will be less of an issue. Personally, I can't stand the black sludge that builds up on aluminum threads as the metal wears away. Nickel threads will stay clean, forever.
The other reason is that "everyone" else anodizes...from surefire to blahfire. That means it's good right? I disagree. Anodizing has one advantage: emissivity. However, in terms of heat transfer, this effect is minimal when compared to the heat conduction to your hand. It's more of a factor on a very large light where the head doesn't contact your hand and the surface area is high.
Don't think I'm an anodize hater. I LOVE a nice HAIII natural finish. I even have an anodizing setup in my garage. However, I can't say that it's a very good (IMHO) coating for flashlights from an engineering standpoint. I just can't see how applying a protective coating and then removing from the places that NEED a protective coating is a good idea. Anyway...
hi dark s.
im in the market for a 2 aa torch, that is designed for 2 aa. so a battery tube 17 mm or so. and that isnt black alluminium. something that is to 2 aa what a revo or a dqg is to 1 aaa.
i really like the form of my 20 year old 2 aa maglite . all the modern offerings are just so big, 20 to 23 mm and gawdy .
This is interesting, tell me more about why you like it? Size? Shape? Nostalgia?
Right now my light is designed to be the most powerful light possible in the smallest "practical" package in terms of usable battery life and the ability to run continuously on high. Everything is optimized for this goal. My intent was to make the best "mid-size" 18650 light that exists.
Now that I'm thinking about other form factors, maybe you experts can suggest the LED/battery size/drive current combination that you are looking for? Some of you have already, but I think that's a useful format to continue with. Crazy suggestions are always welcome too! Keep em coming!