Der Wichtel's Triple XML vs DX Cree 5xR2 beam shots

[beekeeper5]

Hello. After many months of figuring out how to build (and also break) dive lights, I can finally say I've successfully built a couple. It's a bit too intimidated to show you pics of my actual dive lights after seeing everyone elses but here is a comparison of the beam shots. Thanks to Uncle Klem, 350xfire and everyone's help.

Der Wichtel's Triple XML - T6 6500k, powered by 14.8V
DX Cree 5xR2 powered by 7.4V -- I'm going to change this into a canister since it's too long and heavy. I don't have popeye arms like Uncle Klem. 🙂

Camera is set to auto-focus with no flash. Lights were 10 feet away from the wall. Der Wichtel said that even though his triple XML is rated 6500k, it has a yellowish tint and I concur. I have no idea why it's green in the pics. The DX Cree 5xR2 has a brighter but smaller hotspot which unfortunately does not show in the last picture. I dove with the Triple XML in 10ft viz and it's pretty bright. It cut through the murk with some back scatter. It doesn't punch through the murkiness like my single R2 dropin but then again the hotspot isn't that big. I have not dove with the DX Cree 5xR2 yet.

Does anyone know how to measure the degrees of the reflectors? I vaguely recall someone posting the formula but I can't seem to find it.

Reference shot:


Cree 5xR2 high:


Cree 5xR2 medium:


Cree 5xR2 low:


Triple XML:



Triple XML vs Cree 5xR2 high:


Triple XML vs Cree 5xR2 medium:


Triple XML vs Cree 5xR2 low:



Triple XML and Cree 5xR2 high on top of each other:

 

[HB021]

You'll have measure the radius and height of it. The radius will then be the B. Then you measure or calculate C by adding B^2+A^2=C^2.
Then follow my picture here:

 

[HB021]

How did it go?

 

[Klem]

Popeye arms???!!!...I wish!😀

Great to hear you've made a couple. Was looking at your Makita project on another thread and has got me thinking about cooling. Everyone has innovative ideas on this site, it's great. Well done on the Makita, nice torch.


On your thoughts that the 2D is too long and heavy and you're looking to turn it into a canister. It is a solid bomb-proof dive torch for sure. For my rig it's a little too long to fit entirely in my BC pouch so it sticks out a little which is no good. I have a flare pouch on order and will see if I can't sew it onto the BC either under the arm vertically or horizontally at the bottom. Use it like a scabbard. I'll take the front Fastex clip off and replace with Velcro so it's all a one-hand job without needing to look at it to do it.

I tried this solution (below) but it did not impress. A rigid ring on the BC with a rubber seam so it friction 'grabbed' the torch. It works, but the ring is always there sticking out to catch on things when you dive. I also worried that it would come out when jumping in from a boat. Plus, once out and in your hand it's not tethered to you, in case you drop it or need to use both hands quickly.

Another solution I'm more happy with is the hands-free armband. For entry and exit I have it in the BC pocket, and then slip it on when decending. 5mm wetsuit material and 20 minutes with a hand-stitcher.

I'm just suggesting not to throw the baby out with the bathwater...but if canister is what you want to change it to then all good. You could still go the maglight head-only on the hands-free like this one;

The switch is on the arm for easier use when diving, instead of opening the pouch or reaching around behind you. Obviously your canister with 2*D cells (or similar) would be a lot smaller than my 'Taliban gift'.

Another thing I've found useful is to mount a canister head on the shoulder, for night diving when you have two torches in action. Too big and heavy for mounting it on your mask-strap but on the shoulder works well for immediate area illumination. With this BC you can run the cable inside down the back and it exits on the front near the BC pouch where the canister is (no snagging). The tab on the shoulder is Velcro so it comes off quickly after the dive.