Describe your ideal headlamp

[PhantomPhoton]

I am going to describe my ideal headlamp in hopes that I motivate someone who is in the business or has the skill to make headlamps. I would love to hear thoughts from everyone else on my ideas as well as their own ideas.
So without further ado, I present PhantomPhoton's dream LED headlamp.

First and foremost NO %$#&^ 3xAAA battery packs.
いいえ, 无, 아니오, Aucune, Nein, Non, Nenhuma, нет, No!

2 AA or 2 CR123 for a nice compact solution. 4AA or 123s is doable too; might be better for what I want to be able to do.
By AA I mean NiMh. Alkinine in a pinch at reduced levels is fine, but I want the light able to deliver photons for a short time if I need it. Build it for NiMh.
Able to handle RCR123s is a must if we went the CR123 Route.

Now since this is my ideal dream, the best option of course is modular battery packs: so I can buy a pack for 2 or 4 AAs, 2-4 CR123s, 1 or 2 18650. A proprietary, rechargeable battery pack would be fine too. Options for the pack on headband or on a pouch worn closer to the body.


Second, I really don't like having a huge lump of batteries right behind the emitter. I prefer having a head mounted battery pack on the back or along the sides of the headstrap. This further facilitates the ability to use modular battery packs as well.


Next, our emitters.
Crees Pleez. Over the next several months this could change of course, but at the time of this typing Crees with decently low VF. Two Crees to be exact. One Cree in a nice optic for throw, beside it a Cree with almost nothing, just pure flood.
Red 5mm LEDs. I am fond of THC3 LEDs. I'm not too up on my colored 5mm LED specs though so if there exists something for sure better please let me know.
(I'm not sure how good the Cree Reds are or the Red Luxeons, but if they're more efficient than the 5mms I'd go with one of them instead.)
Put Four red 5mms up there on the headlamp and we've got a decent package. Two on each side of the Crees.


Construction. Durable aluminum HAIII body with some machined heatsinking fins recessed in the back. Generous, removable forehead pad for when wearing against your head. If you're mounted on a helmet being able to remove the pad should help save some bulk. Yes the ability to mount on a bike or climbing helmet is wanted.

The headlamp would be rounded rectangular in shape.
[:Oo:]
2 Red 5mms, Throw Cree, Flood White Cree, 2 Red 5mms.

If High Power Reds are a better choice than:
[oOo]
Red Led Floody, Throw Cree, Flood White Cree

Off in fantasy land it would be great to get the option for other colors. I'm quite fond of amber LEDs myself. I know some people like Blue-Greens as well. But if I had to choose one color Red would be first choice.


Finally let us talk UI.
Tiny little buttons that are difficult to press won't work. (had a couple headlamps with those ugh!)
One button just won't cut it.
In my mind we have a button for each LED. One for the throw Cree set up on top of the body. One for the Flood Cree set on the bottom. And one for the red which would be set on the side of the emitter housing. Unfortunately this would be complex. But the advantage is if one switch fails you still have two others that will give light. (On the other side we would have the wire that runs out to the battery pack.)

The Throw Cree needs 2 Levels: Medium and High. (by high I mean as much as the batteries can deliver without starting your forehead on fire). No need for a Low power throw.
The Flood Cree needs 3 Levels: Long Runtime Low low power suitable for reading in the tent, a nice balanced Medium, and a where the heck did I drop my keys out here High.
The Red needs a Low power and a Medium Power drive level. I see no need for a High on red.

No need for a strobe. I prefer the ability to use Morse Code rather than a set SOS. (besides it seems most light manufacturers can't get the SOS timing correct anyway) One thing I would like to see though is a locater beacon. Nice and bright to tell other people here I am. Red leds with a find me mode would be okay if we could cram it all in there. Battery voltage report via the red LEDs (like on a LiteFlux) would be icing on the cake.

Flat flat regulation that steps down on the white LEDs. Allow the reds to suck out every last electron. (if we're not on protected LiIons that is) The ability to run both Throw and Flood Crees at the same time. Even with both on high for a bit.


I have ideas for an ideal searchlight headlamp too using incan or HID, but for practical backpacking this is what I want. Red for me is especially good for sneaking about large sandstone rock formations at night in the pitch black desert while stargazing. Or for finding that water bottle in the middle of the night in the tent without waking your buddies.

If some company would make a light similar to this I'd buy 2 for me 3 for family and a couple more for friends, even with a $200+ price tag. (Just not all at the same time)

 

[jar3ds]

* Battery and LED integrated .
* 1xAA or 2xAA (including 14500)
* ~80grams
* WaterPROOF
* Red Light Option
* 4 White Light Levels, BURST, MED, LOW, Ultra Low

 

[Dung Beetle]

1. 4 AA with optional remote battery pack with 4 CR123
2. Regulated
3. Soft start
4. HID like a WE Boxer 24 watt
5. 5 watt led or 2 cree
6. Waterproof
7. Boost mode and 3 levels
8. Tilt able
9. Nice headband

I would even settle for a headlamp that combines my Mag 2c with a 5761 and my PT Apex. :thumbsup:

 

[Darkaway]

This is Easy

ZebraLight H50.

 

[drmaxx]

For me the Apex is a good start.
Changes:
- A Cree/Rebel, .... emiter
- A very low mode (1-2 lumens, 1 LED only)
- A detachable battery pack with extension cord, so that I can clip it to my belt, ...
- modular battery packs would be very cool
- and finally: the possiblity to use all 5 LEDs at the same time. There are 2 buttons afterall....

 

[yellow]

an EOS front (maybe a bit bigger for heatsink)
sides/back from aluminium acting as sink
APEX batt pack on rear
Cree
one additional Turbo level
REFLECTOR instead of optic (McR-19XR, or better a more floody one - double sized mean beam dot)

 

[Daekar]

Ideal headlamp... well, two really.

1) PT Apex is a great platform already. It needs:
~ 2x18650 option
~ updated LEDs (both primary and cluster) with adjusted heatsinking/driver. Keep the beams the same.
~ Add another brightness level to both primary and cluster. I know the cluster needs a lower-low, and with an SSC-P4 dropped in the primary needs a lower-low as well. Don't remember if the primary low was low enough unmodded.

AND

2) The 18650 version of the Zebralight, with an emitter at each end, and simple tacticle-response buttons like on the Apex. Simple UI please. Make one side exactly like the current Zebralight, don't change a thing - and make the other side a more focused beam. Keep the three brightness settings, they're perfect.

 

[datiLED]

• 2x RC123 or 17650/18650 cell.
• Seoul or CREE LED with OP reflector.
• 3 levels: very low, primary and high.
• Ultra flat regulation with low battery warning and emergency low level.
• Optional diffuser

 

[GaryF]

Ideal Headlamp - Design Criteria

Battery and lamp all in one unit for simplicity / reliability.
Single AA battery power source
3 light levels: Low=Under 5 Lumens, Med=15 Lumens, High=75 Lumens
Spot beam switch able to Flood via diffuser
Efficient circuit and emitter – Runtime 12hrs+ on Medium, 2hrs+ on high
Lightweight design
Waterproof


Some ideas that would come pretty close:
1. Take a Fenix LOD-CE head and build it into a headlamp, powering it with an AA battery for increased runtime. A flip down diffuser and a clickie switch would round it out nicely.

2. Give the ZebraLight a focused lens, and then add a diffuser similar to what the Rayovac 1 AA Sportsman Extreme uses and a clickie switch.

3. The closest thing on the market so far is the Rayovac Sportsman Extreme, with my only real complaints being the short runtime and the lack of lower levels for the white LED. Replace that goofy blue 5mm LED with a white one, and this light would be pretty close, but I'll still be unhappy with runtime on the Luxeon.

At this point I'm very interested in Zebralight and Fenix future offerings. I would consider a 2 AA or a single CR123 based light that met most of my other criteria.

 

[Nitro]

My ideal headlamp would be a special compact clip, that holds a 120P (or any small light), allowing it to attach to a ball cap and adjust down. I still haven't found anything like it.

 

[NoFair]

Ideal headlamp... well, two really.

1) PT Apex is a great platform already. It needs:
~ 2x18650 option
~ updated LEDs (both primary and cluster) with adjusted heatsinking/driver. Keep the beams the same.
~ Add another brightness level to both primary and cluster. I know the cluster needs a lower-low, and with an SSC-P4 dropped in the primary needs a lower-low as well. Don't remember if the primary low was low enough unmodded.

AND

2) The 18650 version of the Zebralight, with an emitter at each end, and simple tacticle-response buttons like on the Apex. Simple UI please. Make one side exactly like the current Zebralight, don't change a thing - and make the other side a more focused beam. Keep the three brightness settings, they're perfect.

If you cut the wire and put connectors on the ends you can use the PT Apex with 2 18650s or RC car packs or any other suitable option you want.
There aren't any stock 2 18650 holders out there, but if you get C-cell holders they can be modified.

Totally agree with the other suggestions.

A headlamp using 2 P3D r100 heads and a finned holder for cooling would be great. Fitting a diffuser to one or both heads would also be easy. I'd ditch the strobe and SOS from the driver though

Separate battery packs could range from about 4V to 12+V. A 2 or 4 18650 pack would be great

 

[Bushman5]

- rubber headband for helmet attachment
- stretchy headband for hat or bare head use
- machined aluminum billet body, sand tumbled for smoothness
- UPGRADEABLE
- milspec toggle switch DPST (HI OFF LO) with silicone rubber cover
- all electronics sealed with epoxy
- HI: 200+ lumens
- LO: 5 lumens
- flip down red filter (aluminum body, glass or polycarb lens)
- choice of flood or throw reflectors, aluminum, no plastic)
- double "O" ring sealed (dive rated to 20 feet)
- Belt or backpack battery pack - with flexible battery leads in silicone tubing, case made from aluminum tubing, triple O ring sealed, double lock access to batteries.
- +/- studpost connections to headlamp with silicone rubber covers - NO PLUGS!
- run time of 60 days on low, 2 weeks on high

:devil:

 

[GaryF]

- rubber headband for helmet attachment
- stretchy headband for hat or bare head use
- machined aluminum billet body, sand tumbled for smoothness
- UPGRADEABLE
- milspec toggle switch DPST (HI OFF LO) with silicone rubber cover
- all electronics sealed with epoxy
- HI: 200+ lumens
- LO: 5 lumens
- flip down red filter (aluminum body, glass or polycarb lens)
- choice of flood or throw reflectors, aluminum, no plastic)
- double "O" ring sealed (dive rated to 20 feet)
- Belt or backpack battery pack - with flexible battery leads in silicone tubing, case made from aluminum tubing, triple O ring sealed, double lock access to batteries.
- +/- studpost connections to headlamp with silicone rubber covers - NO PLUGS!
- run time of 60 days on low, 2 weeks on high

:devil:

Didn't you leave something off? "All for one low payment of just $19.95" :twothumbs

 

[degarb]

In oversimplistic terms: battery life and beam throw = efficiency of bulb.

Else, I would use a halogen over led.

Need for life: one long work/play day/night.

Need good throw of light: (variable voltage control, with reading mode)This means great LED bulb + remember that the reflector is extremely important. (compare Dorcy 1 watt to a real brinkman or garrity.)

So, what is up with the new 3 watt led that suck batteries? Why do we want a candle or darkness after 1 or 2 hours of use--or worse and typical, 10 minutes? Why not give me a bulb that uses same or less energy as my 3 AAA 1 watt luxeon, to double the light output I am used to seeing?

The rest is icing on the cake: form factor, switch placement...

The beam (during course of use) is only as good as the battery source and efficiency.

 

[paulr]

H50 is on the right track for me, though not yet perfect. Very lightweight, 1AA (not 2AA not 4AA) powered, rugged, bright. Flood beam. I haven't felt the need for a throw beam in a headlamp. That's what handheld lights are for.

Things I'd change about the H50: 1) make it not wiggle around in the headband bracket; 2) simplify the UI to a straightforward 2 or 3 level twisty; 3) Use a retractable cord type headband like the petzl zipka.

 

[degarb]

H50 I haven't felt the need for a throw beam in a headlamp. That's what handheld lights are for.

Any physical activity needs a hands free headlamp other than just walking.

I find a headlamp that throws more also shows most detail in items upon which I am focused. I almost never use the 3x5 mm led mode on my Garrity, rather the 1 watt Luxeon or regulated to %75. %50 regulation is too weak.

Too weak (or sub-optimal) are the regular led headlamps-- like the Nikkias-- for walking, jogging, landscaping after sundown, painting, sanding, patching walls, carpentry, auto repair, car cleaning at night, working on computer guts, or just cleaning up the basement.

There may be a point where an unregulated 4 watt is too bright for even walking down the street without blinding people in their own homes, etc. And yes, I like the 5 mm leds for reading at night or map reading.

My Chant is: Throw, Regulation, and Battery life (AA rechargeable only practical)! Then comes form.

I paint professionally, and require all men to use 2000watts of halogen in Night time inside (700 to 1500 watts in day), with 1 watt luxeon on head at all times (since you are in shadow of work lights and only a moving light can truly show all texture imperfections). My theory being 3000 watts of halogen at 8 to 10 foot from wall, equals daylight outside. Also, a 1 watt Luxeon led with good reflector gives outside daylight brightness at 4 foot distance for 3 in diameter. And on sunny days with snow around house, a well windowed room can allow over 2000 watt/10 foot halogen equivalent onto that one imperfect wall, yet was belovedly checked over twenty times. Furthermore, that 60 watt incandescent bulb, 6 inches from wall, can show imperfections a 1500 watt-10 foot distant halogen might never show.

 

[Bushman5]

Didn't you leave something off? "All for one low payment of just $19.95" :twothumbs

stay tuned.... there are aluminum chips flying as we speak. I might NOT know my way around a circuit board , vf, etc etc. but i can machine and build very simple solidstate bombproof stuff. :naughty:

 

[paulr]

The H50 on high is at least 5x brighter than the 3x5mm led mode on your Garrity so it might be bright enough for your painting requirements. I think it's bright enough for just about any close-up task, and its even illumination is just wonderful. Certainly museum lighting goes for evenness rather than intensity, and is designed for very close examination of the items being lit.

 

[serious sam]

It is very difficult to manufacture an all-in-one headlamp with variable modes and variable throw to satisfy every person in this planet. So while I was playing with my zebralight today, this is what I done:

I have attach another bracket and manage to slide in my P1D CE for throw. This combination is very light and now i have lots of flood and lots of throw with lots of modes to choose from!!

However, I wanted to save costs and maintain the AA size battery for my headlamp. But the soft silicone bracket is too soft to hold up to the weight of 2 X AA light. What to do? simple.... make another sturdier bracket or get a NiteIze headband. Here I am using the zebralight with my L2D CE:

I can use my LOD and even my P1D CE.... but twisties are a bit hard to operate with one hand. L2D CE still my choice for one hand operation.

So basically I can use all my favourite light for all sorts of conditions as long as it would fit in the headband.

The zebralight bracket fits in the headband perfectly as it was ment to do so:

So now I have more option, selection of lights, modes, CREE, REBELS, SSC, incandescent light, batteries types, you name it.... as my headlamp (except H.I.D. ok..) I just swap around until i am satisfy with the combination I choose and for the type of application I need. One headlamp fits all? probably not 100% but it satisfy me.

Incandescent? No problemo:

The A2 headlamp

one question remains.... wonder how it looks like to wear the headband with fully strapped with like 10 zebralight? Mr. Light Pole?

 

[degarb]

How do you like the l2d? Why not just go to walmart fabric section and buy industrial vecro straps? Looks very interesting, probably would swap at 5 hours for new rechargeables on a 10 hour day/night.

The zebra also looks interesting for med setting, but for painting, only 75% 1 watt lux is good enough from what I've tried. Lowes carries the Dorcy 1 watt lux, but the reflector is so shallow, the light sucked so much for sanding/caulking door frames that I use it only as an emergency backup light. The Dorcy would be good for carpentry, though I modify any 3AAA lights to use a 3AA pack (1 watt luxeon is rated 15 hour battery, but 4 good hours on 3 AAA). (More than spotting textural imperfections at 12-16 foot distant, the focus and throw of the light that the Brinkman and Garrity have, forces painter workers to do eye jumps across the surface at very great illumination, rather than glance at a wall and say, okay ready to paint.)