Dexlight X.1 - first impressions

[dts71]

Here are my first impressions on the Dexlight X.1 from Dealextreme.

* All modes are accessible on 14500.

* PWM is used on all modes except high, frequency measured to 120Hz.

* Comparisons with my closest match, C-LE - lux readings at 1m :

[email protected]
X1: 600, 60, 670, 230
C-LE: 300, 60, 650

[email protected]
X1: 480, 55, 570, 200
C-LE: 260, 55, 580

[email protected] (Ultrafire "900")
X1: 1600, 150, 2000, 700

[email protected] (Ultrafire "900")
X1: 1500, 140, 1800, 630

3V Primary Li [email protected] (from CRV3 battery)
C-LE: 550, 110, 1200

X1 modes: default (80%), low (5%), high (100%), med (30%)
C-LE modes: med, low, high

Current on [email protected]: 1200mA, 100mA, 1500mA, 480mA
Current on [email protected]: 1070mA, 96mA, 1300mA, 400mA

Beacon frequency is 1/6 Hz i.e. one blink every 6 seconds.

Advanced mode is entered by pressing button 2+ sec on low.
Getting back to basic mode press button 2+ sec on either strobe (5/15Hz).

Well centered led and smother op than the C-LE.
Beam is free from artifacts and has similar shape to C-LE, the X1 has a warmer tint though.

Thread action is ok after removing some metal shavings and re-lubing o-rings.
The only problem is to properly engage the threads since one o-ring hits the head/tail-cap before the threads does :shrug:

The tail-cap button has a nice texture which is fortunate since it requires at least twice the force compared to Fenix.
Personally, I think it requires a tad to much force while the Fenix is a bit to weak for my taste.

Two minor dents in the dark gray/brown HA, no big deal.

Serial number is 7Q2-07050171 - slightly different font on 0171, so this must be #171.

** UPDATE 05-31-2007 **

I ordered a new AW P14500 from Fenix Store and it does not fit.
It's almost 51.8mm, X1 tube length is 51.3mm.
52mm tube or 51mm cell and it would have been ok :shrug:
The fix is the same as P14500 in L1T - add a thin ring of copper wire or similar at one end.
In my case I added a loop of wire in the tail-cap and ta-da P14500 works.

Still happy with the light, Cheers!

/Alex

 

[mchlwise]

Got mine yesterday. :twothumbs

last 4# - 0984

I like it a lot. On 14500, it's REALLY bright. Just slightly brighter than my P2D.

Basically the same observations. No problems with the anodize here, except for on the ends of the threads where it's a little spotty. Threads were bone dry, as were the o-rings.

Overall it's just slightly lower quality than Fenix as far as machining/build.

The PWM is very high, and nearly impossible to notice - and I consider myself "PWM sensitive".

This will probably become my primary light, since it can run on 14500 and retain low mode.

The only problem I've had is getting "stuck" in advanced mode sometimes, and my wife making fun of me. :green:

 

[dts71]

I ordered a new AW P14500 from Fenix Store and it does not fit.
It's almost 51.8mm, X1 tube length is 51.3mm.
52mm tube or 51mm cell and it would have been ok :shrug:
The fix is the same as P14500 in L1T - add a thin ring of copper wire or similar at one end.
In my case I added a loop of wire in the tail-cap and ta-da P14500 works.

 

[teststrips]

the head of my unit doesn't quite fit on the whole way.. you can see the o-ring when tightened completely... anyone else have the problem.

I"m guessing mine might be a defect as the front 0-ring looks really messed up, like it was a total defect.... the ring glows slightly (very slightly), but looks very very ugly + too big...

wondering if anyone else is having the same problems.

 

[Rob187]

I've very impressed with mine, S/N 0355. The only issue I have with it is that the LED is not absolutely centred in the reflector. This doesn't seem to affect the beam which is pretty good for a Cree LED.

The front o-ring is fine, but does glow when the light it on. Kinda cool actually.

 

[dts71]

the head of my unit doesn't quite fit on the whole way.. you can see the o-ring when tightened completely... anyone else have the problem.

You could try to either tighten the head with needle-nose pliers/pointed tweezersor disassemble the head completly (with the same tools) and then put it back together. I'd say the "plate/circuit board/positve contact thing" need to be tightened so you get an extra mm of threading.

On the possitive side, you are more likely to be successful in using AW:s protected 14500 cells since this condition gives you some extra space for the battery that in my case is to long.

 

[matrixshaman]

This light is absolutely freakin' sweet! This is the kind of light (and then some) that I've been trying to get since last October 2006. I ordered a Jetbeam back then that was not what I expected, then another light that went bad, then the Rexlight (still waiting on it) by Kyle at Dealextreme really pulled through on this one. I like everything about it and see no problems at all. I can see the front O-ring if I look at the light from a back side angle but that is the SECOND O ring so the front one is well up into the head and I'm sure this would be waterproof with the double O-ring setup. Very nice and heavy HA anodizing. Super clean and symetrical beam with no rings. Still figuring out all the modes. I see it even has two different brightness levels for S.O.S. (and yes I'm one that likes to have that option).

 

[mchlwise]

I see it even has two different brightness levels for S.O.S. (and yes I'm one that likes to have that option).

Different strobe speeds too.

The key things to remember that I've found are:

Don't turn it off in low, or you'll end up in advanced mode (with your wife making fun of you. )

If you end up in advanced mode, turn it off when you get to strobe, and you'll be back in "general mode".

If you end up in advanced mode and don't want your wife to know (because she'll make fun of you :duh2: ), you can also remove the tailcap "disconnecting" power from the light, which resets it back to general mode.

 

[matrixshaman]

Thanks to dts71 - I think this is the first place I have found anyone knowing how to get between the general and advanced modes. And thanks mchlwise for your find also. I'm really enjoying this light (read driving the wife nuts).

 

[chanamasala]

This is an excellent light. It is quite refined and I think it could sell at REI for $120. Clicky is nice and firm, white beam, and nice interface. DX did well on this torch. I highly highly urge them to make an RCR123 tube for it.

 

[Nake]

You could try to either tighten the head with needle-nose pliers/pointed tweezersor disassemble the head completly (with the same tools) and then put it back together. I'd say the "plate/circuit board/positve contact thing" need to be tightened so you get an extra mm of threading.

Be carefull if tightening the head further in. The emitter could touch the reflector and short out.