Dichroic Glass Reflectors

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Anyone have experience with Dichoric glass reflectors commonly found in bike mounted lighting systems? I wish to determine the following.
1. The quality of the projected beam.
2. The size of the spot at 30 feet. Is it smooth like the Surefires of fragmented like the Maglites and Streamlights.
3. The amount of light output (lumens) with 10 and 20 watt bulb.

Thanks in advance.

 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I resurrected this topic in case it gets missed today.

 

[lightlover]

KT, I have a few Osram reflectors.

These are the glass 50mm diam., "Orange Peel" iridescent finish type, but no lamp inside or lens covering. The base is the usual rectangular aperture, sans ceramic filling or contact pins. That's the MR16 designation, (I believe) but just the reflector without anything in it ......
Any good to you ?

lightlover

 

[lightuser]

You mean what's a good MR11 or 16 sealed beam like, or is the reflector all you're after? I use a TurboCat MR11 20 watt I could describe.

 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

It amazes me how knowledgeable CPF members are. Lightlover and lightuser, thanks for responding. Please indulge an old “fifty-something” as he tries to learn a few more technical things about how a torch works – particularly those that are better engineered – in search for his ideal Level III light. I understand that dichoric glass reflectors are commonly found on bike-mounted lighting systems. Ya’ll please tell me about the quality of the “beams” (I call them the projected spot) and how far they reach. I have read that these bike lights are bright and have a long burn time. That interests me, however, they would be very awkward, to carry inside of my suit or sportcoat. I am currently in contact with a light manufacturer developing a handheld torch somewhere in size between the Surefires 9P and a 9N with either 3 CR123s or a Nicad pack using technology developed for bike lights. The output would be a claimed 500 or so lumens. Given my preference for round, cylindrical tactical illumination tools, this might be a candidate for purchase by me. I’ve been testing the UltraStinger for a week now. I’m impressed sufficiently but I have been known to have the patience of an oyster. I am also waiting for the new Surefires. Much thanks in advance.

 

[lightlover]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by kogatana:
It amazes me ...knowledgeable ...Lightlover ...old ...technical ....candidate ...I’m impressed ...Much thanks ...

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


Well, KT, that's very nice of you to say that

But do you actually want the Dichroic reflector on offer ?
(At least I think that one is dichroic ? )

lightlover

 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Jahn,
I'll pass on the offer as I'm not much of a hobbyist - at least at this point in my life. ...perhaps when I retire. I did misspell that word. I got it directly from the Midnite Lite web site. All I did was cut and paste the word. Thanks for the correction.

 

[cave dave]

I have both nite rider and nitesun systems. They both produce a nice smooth even beam. They are available in a variety of different wattages and beam widths. Replacement lamps are about $20.

If you like sucking up expensive batteries try this:

.

http://www.night-sun.com/htmldocs/sunsport_lite.html

I have the recharable version and it is very bright and produces a nice smooth beam. Don't know much about the lithium version except it uses expensive Li 2CR5 cammera batteries.

Incidently, For some reason every alkaline battery type bicycle light I have ever seen has miserable light patterns. They invariable have a prismatic lens which send light in all directions. I guess this is to be seen (by cars) and not necessarily to see where you are going

 

[lightuser]

kogatana: thanks, I have learned a lot from this Forum and love to share what I have learned. My understanding of "dichroic" reflectors is just that they dissipate some heat by letting the invisible infrared (=heat)waves go out through the rear reflector, while forcing higher visible bands to go where we want them out front. Mostly I think the term applies to MR- bulbs and sealed beams since they are susceptible to so much heat. Of course infrared goes out the front, it's just that the massive amount of heat a high power halogen gives off can ruin stuff if it's not managed well. These are hot running lights, for sure. They can melt PVC. The more watts they get the hotter they get, and 20 watts is pretty hot. As far as the subject of MR's goes there's a good bit to study but by and large they are very powerful and very cheap technology. I love my TurboCat bike light and recommend it heartily as a bike light. It puts out a large bright round beam that has ample peripheral light and good spot throw. It's many hundreds of lumens but I don't know exactly what; I'll venture a guess 390 lumens. A top of the line Surefire will beat it lumenwise but it beats the smaller SFs on beam width. Actually I hear the big Surefires will cut off after a few minutes due to heat overload. The only solution is to get a larger light if you want that much power. A Light Cannon gives a lot of light and stays cool, but it's a pretty big flashlight not a pocket model unless you are Arnold Swartzeneger. Earlier I thought you were looking for a good reflector, hey that's a good subject too

 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

lightuser,
How large and consistent is the beam (projected spot) at 10 to 15 yards?

 

[JB]

KT,

How about this baby:

It's the FA&MI Ray diving torch. Nice specs, see: http://www.scubamarket.com/eng/tofa0008.php

Oh, it's relevance here? I think the reflector is dichroic.

 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

JB,
That looks promising! I'll check it out. Thanks.

 

[LEDAdd1ct]

My understanding of "dichroic" reflectors is just that they dissipate some heat by letting the invisible infrared (=heat)waves go out through the rear reflector, while forcing higher visible bands to go where we want them out front. Mostly I think the term applies to MR- bulbs and sealed beams since they are susceptible to so much heat. Of course infrared goes out the front, it's just that the massive amount of heat a high power halogen gives off can ruin stuff if it's not managed well. These are hot running lights, for sure. They can melt PVC. The more watts they get the hotter they get, and 20 watts is pretty hot. As far as the subject of MR's goes there's a good bit to study but by and large they are very powerful and very cheap technology.

I was googling to find out the answer to this question, and I was pleased and surprised to find the answer on our very own CPF. Thank you!