Difference in performance

[artec540]

Realistically, how much difference can one expect in a given flashlight from one battery type to another?

Granted that an unprotected Lithium ion packs a bit more wallop than a protected one and they both carry more than some other chemistry, is the light output seriously different among them? Is it different enough?

I'm wondering whether it's worth the trouble and potential risk to aim for the absolute maximum output when maybe there isn't really that much gain.

I don't doubt that there's a quantifiable difference, but if I don't have the necessary measuring equipment, is it obvious to the naked eye?

 

[Russel]

Are you talking about different battery chemistries, capacities, and case types?

Do you have a particular flashlight in mind?

 

[old4570]

Hmmmm , well lets talk 18650 ...

They can vary quite a bit in performance [ leaving aside capacity ]

Brand A , in a SSC P7 may deliver only 2.2A on high , whilst Brand B can do more like 2.6A on high , and brand C does more like 3A [ or more as things warm up ] .

The most I have measured is around 3.25A with a Samsung , and around 3.1A with a IMR ..

And the worst , about 2.15A , thats a whopping 33% ... [ SSC P7 ]

Bear in mind , that as current needs lower , so does the need for high performance batteries .. Its the single cell high performance lights that need the best batteries [ ones that can deliver high current ] and its in these lights that the battery will make a lot of difference .

Same goes for the small AA or AAA lights with single cells , the battery you chose may dictate performance to a very large degree .

 

[Chauncey Gardner]

Depending on the light & type of driver, it can make a huge difference.

My Q5 NDI, ITP A3'S, Liteflux LF2XT & old style D-Mini all are much brighter with lithium ion's. The fully regulated regular Quarks I saw no difference & a Jetbeam Tc-R3 there was some visible difference on 2 16340's vs lithium primaries or 18650's. Not nearly as dramatic as the above mentioned lights though.

 

[Curious_character]

In a light with a good regulated supply, there will be no appreciable change in light output regardless of the battery used, as long as its voltage is within the range the regulator is designed for. If you put in a battery having a voltage greater than the range the regulator can handle, it's anyone's guess -- the light might get brighter, might get brighter for a while before self-destructing, or might self-destruct immediately.

In a direct drive (unregulated) light, the more voltage under load, the brighter the light.

Batteries containing more total energy will power the light for a longer period of time than those with less energy.

c_c

 

[artec540]

Thanks to Russel, Old 4570, Chauncey Gardner and Curious Character.

I can see I should have been much more specific and provided more information when I asked my question. So may I trespass on your expertise again, providing you with more details?

I'm looking at lights using four different battery types (sizes, anyway). They are:
CR2, all using Duracell non-rechargeable (Jillite J2, 4Sevens Q Mini CR2, Muyshondt Aeon)

CR 123, all using AW lithium ion rechargeable (iTP C9, iTP A 1 Eos and EOS SS)

AAA, both using Energizer 1.5 V (iTP A2 Eos, iTP A 3 EOS Upgraded [whatever that means])

"HL 14250, 300mAh, 3.6 V" [blue, with only that information, no manufacturer's name] (Lummi Raw Ti).

So now my question for each group is: Is there a battery that would deliver a clearly visible improvement in performance to any of the four groups over the batteries now installed? A CR2 with visibly better performance than a Duracell, a CR 123 (or RCR 123, I suppose) with visibly better performance than the AW, etc.?

I don't care about run-time, only output.

Of those lights named, the C9 seems to give the best beam, but I suspect that's largely attributable to its much deeper reflector. And the problem with the C 9 is that it's so much bigger than all the others. Next best seems to be the A 1.

 

[Chauncey Gardner]

artec, for 20 bucks you can get an ITP A3 (upgraded) 3 mode.

Pick up a charger & a couple of batteries from kuku's sales thread in the marketplace & you can check it all out for about 40 bucks. You will be shocked at how much the little light puts out. Just keep in mind you need to keep an eye on voltage on the little 10440 batteries & not let the light overheat.
No problems on medium, but remember this light has no low discharge protection & (as far as I know) there are no aaa protected lithium ion batteries right now.


Personally, I'd get an LF2XT used as it sounds like the ideal light for what you want (small size, big output). More money, but not a purchase you would regret. Check it out below;

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=195714

 

[artec540]

artec, for 20 bucks you can get an ITP A3 (upgraded) 3 mode.

Pick up a charger & a couple of batteries from kuku's sales thread in the marketplace & you can check it all out for about 40 bucks. You will be shocked at how much the little light puts out. Just keep in mind you need to keep an eye on voltage on the little 10440 batteries & not let the light overheat.
No problems on medium, but remember this light has no low discharge protection & (as far as I know) there are no aaa protected lithium ion batteries right now.


Personally, I'd get an LF2XT used as it sounds like the ideal light for what you want (small size, big output). More money, but not a purchase you would regret. Check it out below;

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=195714

Hi Chauncy Gardner and thank you for your further advice.
I have followed it and, having already sunk money into 8 or 9 little pocket lights in my search for the ideal one, I plunged and bought a new one, plus a charger and a couple of two packs of 10440s.
I had a look at the interface instructions for the LF2XT and was left gasping and floundering like a fish out of water! It's obviously incredibly capable and versatile but it's a good thing there's a simple mode for simple people like me!
I never saw anything so daunting in my life!

 

[Chauncey Gardner]

Hi Chauncy Gardner and thank you for your further advice.
I have followed it and, having already sunk money into 8 or 9 little pocket lights in my search for the ideal one, I plunged and bought a new one, plus a charger and a couple of two packs of 10440s.
I had a look at the interface instructions for the LF2XT and was left gasping and floundering like a fish out of water! It's obviously incredibly capable and versatile but it's a good thing there's a simple mode for simple people like me!
I never saw anything so daunting in my life!

It's super slick once you get the hang of it & switch feel is second to none.

 

[old4570]

For the AAA if you dont wish to try 10440 your next best bet may be Lithium batteries ..

For CR123A the AW's are a good choice .

 

[Chauncey Gardner]

Lately the other fire brands are so out of spec in length as to be unuseable in some of my lights. Sticking with AW's from now on in 14500 & 16340. They also last longer.

Does seem like the lithium primaries give a little bump also in the aaa.

 

[artec540]

Thanks, everyone. I've already got a bunch of CR123 lithium primaries and some RCR 123s as well (Battery Station, Tenergy and AW). So far, I can't detect any difference in output among them in the lights that use them. I haven't any lights that use AAs.
Your friend Steve Ku hadn't any of the LF2XT left but I've got batteries and a charger coming from him. I'd have like to get the light from him, too because he really seemed to be a straight shooter. He offered to refund the money I'd sent him for the batteries and charger because he couldn't supply the light. I was impressed.
Now I'm impatient to try out the 10440s!
Thanks again!

 

[Chauncey Gardner]

Sent you a pm art.

 

[mdocod]

A 33% variation in current consumption from the worst to best performing 18650s will result in probably a 25% difference in actual output. (LEDs drop in efficiency as they are driven harder).

It takes about a 30% difference to "see" with the human eye.

For actual use, I'd go for a happy balance between what you feel is safe and provides acceptable runtime.

A quality brand unprotected 18650 used in a direct drive LED isn't likely to be too severely over-discharged by the user because it will dim down a lot down around 3V. Use a quality charger that terminates properly and I don't see much of a problem there.

Eric