DIY strobing bike lights - Cutter MR11 kit?

Charlotte

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Nov 19, 2008
Messages
21
Location
London
I'm fed up of people pulling out of side roads on me and I have come to the inevitable conclusion that the best way of avoid thing this is to run fiery beams ov molten deth on the front of my bike. At least that way, the buggers can't give me the "sorry love, I didn't see you" treatment when I'm lying on the floor.

My current setup on the commuting bike involves one of the new IQ Cyo lights from B&M, run off a SON hub which is by far and away the best dynamo driven bike light I have ever tried (and I've had a few, I can tell you). It's more than adequate for seeing where I'm going.

Next to that, I have my Fenix L2D light, set onto disco strobe mode. I've got to say, this little wonder is about the best way I have ever found of keeping the moron motons from pulling out on me. My commute is quite urban in parts and I have it aimed high enough that it draws the attention of anyone in its way. It lights up all the reflective roadsigns for at least 100 yards and close up, it's eyeball-meltingly bright.

But it's not enough. I want to be building myself a more powerful rechargeable system, probably based on the kit offered by Cutter, installed in a Lumicycle HID housing, driven by one of their high-capacity batteries.

What I want to know is, how do I get the same frequency of seizure-inducing, lunatic strobe with a kit like that? Will the Cutter kit cut it? How fast is the strobe mode?

I know that the UIB2 firmware installed in the bflex driver allows you to configure it to deliver a strobe, but just how fast is that strobe compared to my L2D? Can you tune the frequency in any way?

I appreciate that setting a high-output system like this to strobe mode is verging on the anti-social, but in Central London, where there's light everywhere, it's a tool that I want at my disposal to keep me safe.

Oh - and if anyone's built an MR11 kit from Cutter, could you let me know what you think of it? What kit did you get and what sort of output do you get from it? How quickly did it arrive from Cutter? (I know there's been some problems of late...)

Or should I be looking elsewhere?

Thanks in advance!
 
Morning

I can sympathise - used to commute to Picadilly :green:

I dont think you can change the frequency of the strobe, only the brightness.
I have got a bFlex with UI - Uni on its way to be direct from TaskLED - may be cheaper and quicker to go direct.

Lumicycle HID housing, cutter kit and bflex is a great startpoint, Cutter as you say are having delivery issues at the moment. The thing that will not come in the kit is a heatsink, some people sand down the alloy disc that the LEDs come on until it is a push fit into the housing, I personally would like a thicker heatsink to put beneath the LED to get at better thermal path to the housing.




N
 
Hi, I'm sitting here just finishing a Cutter conversion (with broken ribs due to a nice lady pulling out of a side street & splatting me on her roof last week!) I've done a few of them now details http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/read.php?f=2&i=3808460&t=3808377#reply_3808460 & I think the strobe is about 4 times a second & fixed if the firmware, email George at Taskled.com (they make the bflex) he's really quick to reply & delivery from him in the US was less than 5 days!
 
Wow - that's exactly what I'm after doing, Snaps! It looks fabulous!

I'll bang off a mail to George and ask him about the strobe. If you bought the bflex board direct from him - where did you get the PCB with the LEDs on it? Did that have to come from Cutter? Which model did you use for the quad setup?

Mind you; I'd definitely want one of their heatsinks, so it looks like I'm going to have to make an order from them anyway. Hopefully it's just the bflex that they have issues shipping.
 
The Leds are available premounted on the boards if you look around on the cutter site http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut759&cat=48
The heat sink is no use if you are enclosing it inside a lamp housing.
And I'm afraid Cutters shipping problems apply to all there products - I think they is a thread about it on the Led forum on here.
 
Ah. Damn :(

Well, I shall bang off an email to Cutter then, asking what they have in stock and whether they can get it to me this side of Chrimbo. I have an urge to get in some serious garage-time tinkering with this beastie whilst I'm off work :)
 
Have you ordered it yet? you may want to look into George's new HipFlex driver & a p7/MCE, this will almost certainly be cheaper than cutter, and easier to house. That said, you're talking about 800+ Lumens with either of these set ups.

Please don't strobe it at full power, even in london I'd be amazed if there was enough ambient light to warrant it and frankly its just a bit asbo-tastic.
 
I've not ordered anything yet, herulach. I tend to vacillate for ages before I buy stuff. When it's as technical as this, even more so.

Could you point me towards a link to where I can buy the kit you mention?

The plan is to only use the full power strobe when I can see someone's just about to pull out on me. There are one or two junctions I pass where I'm coming round a corner at 20+mph and sometimes, I need everything I can chuck at it.

For general riding, a dipped beam is fin :)
 
Hi Charlotte :welcome:

I have a bflexed light with a remote button and run it on it's highest level
(of 5 levels of light) while on the road.

When i come near intersections with drivers approaching them (ready to splat me) ,i just press the remote button a couple of times ,which manually flashes
the light.

This is part of the UI -telling you that there are no more higher levels -and also a great manual strobe for just when you need it.

If you do use the strobe -it's wicked on high and fantastic on a busy daytime. ( LED setup with Cutter MR11 triple spot optic)



Cheers
Dom
 
35mm (mr11 give or take) reflectors & glasses are readily available from dealextreme/kaidomain (although designed for XR-Es so you won't get good focus) - unfortunately the hipFlex driver isn't out yet - that said - there are a couple of relatively easy ways to drive a P7 at full power & still have it strobe (here for example) Or if you're not into making a host - modify a cheap p7 torch - that has budget +s, but looks abit ghetto, and (as I'm rapidly finding out) can get tempremental.

Out of interest - where did you source cheap Lumicycle HID housings? They list them on thir site but ony with ballast & lamp for £120 - unless I'm blind


I've not ordered anything yet, herulach. I tend to vacillate for ages before I buy stuff. When it's as technical as this, even more so.

Could you point me towards a link to where I can buy the kit you mention?

The plan is to only use the full power strobe when I can see someone's just about to pull out on me. There are one or two junctions I pass where I'm coming round a corner at 20+mph and sometimes, I need everything I can chuck at it.

For general riding, a dipped beam is fin :)
 
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I've been jammy enough to have been given one by a friend who'd rather upgrade to the new Lumi LED kit than lash out £70 to replace the blown HID cartridge.

So for less than £100 I want to be able to build something brighter than the stock 850 lumens that the new Lumicycle LED unit puts out.

Reckon that's possible?
 
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