Do the closeout twisties work properly?

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DashingMan

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Hey guys Im planning on buying an LSH second, (already had a 4+ second),but just wanted to confirm first that the "factory closeout" 123 twisties work with the same efficiency and are still as waterproof as the anodized ones. I personally dont think I'll care if its anodized or not, and dont mind if my light looks abused. Just want to make sure their not discounted for any other reason.

Thanks,
DashingMan
 
I recently purchased one and liked it so much I ordered 2 more with one for a friend and a spare for myself.
I use Surefire 123 cells as well as Duracell and have had no problems at all with the light working.It is a much better unit,in my opinion,than with the Kroll switch.
At 5 dollars you really can not go wrong and it really does not bother me that much about the bare aluminum color.
Also may be my imagination but I could swear the light is brighter with the twisty pack than with the Kroll.Mine seems to dim and slightly flicker with the clicky pack and the contact is perfect with the twisty.
 
Hey guys, my LSH-P seems brighter with the twisty as well, but it could be my imagination as well. As far as the twisty is concerned, I like it - really shortens up the light a lot and the silver color is neat. I'd love to get my hands on a complete unanadozided ARC LS! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif
 
Yes. In fact the "closeout" twistie works slightly better than the anodized one our fellow member was selling. The "closeout" one, at least on my light, doesn't need to be screwed all the way in to function.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the twistie tailcaps were discontinued by Arc because they didn't work properly with all brands of batteries due to variations in battery length from brand to brand. I don't think there was any problem with waterproofing.
 
Yup Zago, I am aware of the battery length concern. Thanks everyone for posting, you have confirmed that Im buying one.

DashingMan
 
A major reason for Arc discontinuing twisty packs was to reduce liablity from warranty issues.

Simple physics indicates a multipling of force from screwing down the twisty against the circuit board. Possibly destroying a perfectly good ArcLS flashlight.

That's why I will not let anyone touch my prized first run.
 
the twisty I have put less pressure on my circuit board then my clicky...when i tightened the clicky too much a bubble would apear on the lens...if i tighten the twisty all the way there is no bubble using a duracell or energizer /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/popcorn.gif but in anycase getting a contact with the positive nub with the battery will put some pressure on the circuit board clicky or twisty...the user decides how much...
 
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spoggles said:
the twisty I have put less pressure on my circuit board then my clicky...when i tightened the clicky too much a bubble would apear on the lens...if i tighten the twisty all the way there is no bubble using a duracell or energizer /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/popcorn.gif

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Your clicky's pressure is limited to kroll spring's force. VS force from twisty is only limited by threads remaining and twisting force of hand.

Assume for a moment someone that is not familiar with the operation of ArcLS w/twisty. They attempt to turn on with a dead battery.... no results, turn harder and so on.

A very real potenial for a crushed board.
 
Thanks for pointing this out guys, I heard it before, but now that Im going to own an LSH, No one will touch LSH w/ twisty.
 
luckily I have a twisty that comes on only if fully screwed in with a duracell..once the light is on there is only a quater turn left wich cant hurt me ls...this twisty is from Jon at JS burlys that he had anodized, I'm very pleased with it...I only use premium bats so no issues for me...but I know what your saying you could easily dammage an LS with overtightening
 
Funny... I thought somewhere I read the battery usually got crushed before the circuit board.

Not that I'm saying it's good either way...
 
I have two twistys and they both work great. a foam washer may be needed to help things out. but this is no big deal. it makes the light much smaller and nicer.
 
I have an anodized twistie and does not work very good with Duracells, the battery rattles when off, (like all brands do because of no spring), and makes intermittance.I've tried on Panasonic and works ok, to screw it to close and turn on goes smoother than the clickie ,also you can do it with only one hand, the light looks nice being shorter and comfortable for "candle mode" and pocket carrying.
Otherwise I am not sure that you guys said about damaging the board, just turns on when the thread finishes and it feels tight on the body like a screw.
 
I have a closeout twist and it works with my lsh but not my lsl and it doesn't seem to matter what kind of battery I use. I bought two of the twist tailcaps from J.Burly and they are excellent. Both work with both lights and I've had no problems with any brand of 123. Plus the anodizing looks great. I prefer the flatness of it to the slight glossy ano on the head of the arc.
 
ibewno3,
Where do I buy a foam washer that will make my light smaller?
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hahaha.gif "a foam washer may be needed to help things out. but this is no big deal. it makes the light much smaller and nicer."
 
[ QUOTE ]
spoggles said:
luckily I have a twisty that comes on only if fully screwed in with a duracell..once the light is on there is only a quater turn left wich cant hurt me ls...this twisty is from Jon at JS burlys that he had anodized, I'm very pleased with it...I only use premium bats so no issues for me...but I know what your saying you could easily dammage an LS with overtightening

[/ QUOTE ]

Same here. Just a quarter turn left and it lights. Battery Station 123's.
Will get around to testing it with the two tiger-striped LS seconds.

Cheers.
 
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