Do you factor in end user serviceability as part of reliability/durability?

[PaladinNO]

It depends on what you mean by "end user serviceability". I'm not into fully custom lights, with a custom PCB where I can replace parts on a component level (I also guess that is NOT what you have in mind here), but basic maintenance, sure. The most important thing for me is a replaceable battery.

Even with improved performance, like increased output and longer runtime, and better IP-rating (protection against water and dust ingress), an enclosed, non-replaceable battery is a deal-breaker for me. Except in specific cases, like extremely small form factor (such as my Nitecore Tip key-ring lights).

So a replaceable battery, O-rings and the possibility to grease the threads when needed is something I look for in every light I buy, regardless of price. An easily replaceable LED would be nice (I have a Fenix TK76 I would like to upgrade), but that is typically not possible to do, and not something I have knowledge on how to do or the tools required, so that is not something I factor in.

 

[Schokokeks]

It depends on what you mean by "end user serviceability". I'm not into fully custom lights, with a custom PCB where I can replace parts on a component level (I also guess that is NOT what you have in mind here), but basic maintenance, sure. The most important thing for me is a replaceable battery.

Even with improved performance, like increased output and longer runtime, and better IP-rating (protection against water and dust ingress), an enclosed, non-replaceable battery is a deal-breaker for me. Except in specific cases, like extremely small form factor (such as my Nitecore Tip key-ring lights).

So a replaceable battery, O-rings and the possibility to grease the threads when needed is something I look for in every light I buy, regardless of price. An easily replaceable LED would be nice (I have a Fenix TK76 I would like to upgrade), but that is typically not possible to do, and not something I have knowledge on how to do or the tools required, so that is not something I factor in.

Yeah, I'd agree on these points. Unless you're overdriving your LED, I can't fathom needing to replace it.

Integrated batteries always seems like a great idea; better water resistance and smaller form, but I haven't found it to ever really be necessary (even on phones), but I've had a LOT of electronics become bricks because the battery pack eventually couldn't hold a charge.

After batteries, I think the next most common thing that I have wear out on stuff is switches. I think a lot of YouTube "durability" clickbait of electronics ALWAYS misses out on switches. They just whip stuff into concrete, and then declare a light as indestructible. I've had WAY more devices become e-waste because of unresponsive buttons versus drops. That's one of the things I think in flashlights that's under-appreciated about Surefire; they make GREAT switches. And, while you can usually buy a replacement from Surefire, McClicky replaceable ones can give them a run for the money, long-term. Already, some Surefire switches are discontinued, so you have to rely on Chinese knockoffs...

Lenses are an interesting option, too, because those DO tend to get a bit scratched up. I tend to put lights in a separate watch pocket, or in the same pocket as my wallet, but not with my keys, so I don't deal with scratches a whole lot.

 

[Schokokeks]

Thank you! You exceeded expectations. Good observations, and with a dash of perspective that provides context and enhances their value. Between what you and @bykfixer posted regarding his experience, I feel like I actually know something about this(ese) product(s) now. There are reasons why I still hang out here;-)

Also, I just realized a VERY compelling argument for the SP-6M; it's only $10 more than the P26 driver, hahah. If you're buying one of the drivers you can get with it, why WOULDN'T you just pay the extra $10 and get a whole light? The modular one is only $3.50 more than the non-modular, so I can't see why NOT get that SP-6M.

I've been looking at getting the single mode driver for mine, and just realized I could get a whole other light for $10 more, haha. I might grab a random Kaidomain drop-in for messing around with a spare body. I have a friend who is sort of easing into flashlights as a hobby, so I'm thinking a P6 host and drop-in might be a great gift to get the bug to bite him, hahahaha.

 

[PaladinNO]

After batteries, I think the next most common thing that I have wear out on stuff is switches.

This is the part I don't get. How hard can it be to make a durable switch? You can get Cherry MX keyboard keys that are rated for 20 Million clicks, why not just take that, use a stiffer spring for increased resistance, and put a replacable rubber mold on top of it?

 

[Schokokeks]

This is the part I don't get. How hard can it be to make a durable switch? You can get Cherry MX keyboard keys that are rated for 20 Million clicks, why not just take that, use a stiffer spring for increased resistance, and put a replacable rubber mold on top of it?

I think the "non-click" switches tend to be REALLY durable (see: original Surefire switches), but it does absolutely crack me up, because you're 100% correct. It seems like with an extra $0.73 worth of better materials, any switch could last 50 years. Switches on stuff from the 50's still work today (ever used a device with one of those old plunger "clicky" switches, and it's a satisfying "ker-chunk").

You ever seen that "staircase" ratchet mechanism in a cheap ballpoint pen? FREE IDEA for anyone interested in making a compact, durable switch that's easy to user service.