kosPap
Flashlight Enthusiast
Greetings all!
As promised in thread Ebay/Hong Kong Pressure Switch - Warning I am starting a new thread on Documenting Repairing and Modifying the Chinese Tape Switches.
This will be an ongoing project with more pictures and instructions as time allows and new tape switch (TS) modifications are made.
So...
This type of TS can be found for a variety flashlights. Superfire WF-501, the Ultrafires C-2, WF-510, WF-500, WF-600, C1, MC-1 Conqueror, the Solarforce L-2, etc. In fact once a flashlight has the standard 14mm wide switch boottie and enough room to host the TS module it is readily convertible.
TS Documentation
There have been 4 generations of TS. (The older on the left)
Let's examine them one by one
This is the older one. It is effectively a WF-501 switch board that the wires have been soldered to. And to stop them for tearing apart a cable zip type has been used. This type of switch is amenable to mods and this is the last time you see it. I will be using the board for a C-2 forward clicky mod shortly.
But two problems still remain. One is that jiggling the cable will still break off the wires from their soldering point. A solution can be tried will potting the zip tie with epoxy or hot-melt glue. (I will keep you updated on my results)
Also have a look at the spring part of the board. Do you notice a ring soldered? This is for preventing shorting on the Ultrafire C-2 switch module, since the retaining ring contacts both the ground and the spring. In the older WF-501 they were wise enough to have an insulating (black) ring, as seen here.
Now this is the second generation.
This time there is no zip tie, one wire is soldered on the spring base and the other is jammed in a groove on the aluminum module body.
This is the 3rd version.
A bit of an improvement
For the 4th generation I do not have a pic. (I did not have to disassemble one) As it can be seen in the collective pic above the board is press fitted and the ground wire goes through a hole and is soldered on the outer ring.
Update 1
Seems there is a sub version of Gen 4.
this one has a lower stem (the part that takes the place of the rubber tailcap and a different board as can be seen in the pic above.
Furthermore I had a look at the gen2 waterproofing. There is none since the cable passes through an oversize hole in the switch body. On the other hand the gen4 are a tight fit and passed the "air blow" test.
TS Dimensions
pic coming shortly...
I would like to point though that there has been a change in module body materials and dimensions.
Gen 1 is plastic, Gen 2&3 is aluminum and Gen 4 plastic again.
Also the part that extends over the flashlight tailcap is dimensioned 13.8mm at Gen 1. 13-13.4-13.8 at Gen 2&3, and 13mmat Gen 4.
So you are advised to always add a 12x1.5mm O-ring around that part to make a watertight seal.
TS Pressure Pads
Well even these have changed. Here are the two versions.
On the left is the newer one. A board with 5 push-on switches (they are exactly what is used is touch button in VCRs, DVD players etc)
On the right it is the older style. One insulated bronze pad with the springy contraption you see. This particular specimen is what is left of a pressure pad I made. And what it seems like paper masking tape is exactly that!!!!
There have been problems with the newer generation, It seems that just soldering the wires is not enough and they break off at the junction sooner or later. I had even TS be inoperable band new. Hell, they did not even got to the trouble of putting the wire through the soldering holes!!! So we must go to...
TS Pressure Pad Repairs
I had not the chance to repair one for wire disconnection. I would suggest though to solder them, and then add a zip tie as close to the board as possible. This way if it is yanked the zip tie stop on the shrunk part of the pad will hinder any internal movement.
Now lets talk about the black pressure pad sleeve/envelop.
It is not more than a heat shrinking cable tube. On the foreground there is a genuine older one and on the background a newer one I have prepared.
Just one note. Mine is a 125 deg C ratted one. The older genuine are 250-300 deg C ratted and the newer ones I do not know, but are thinner. Now don't go and set them close to a gun barrel like a buddy did and shrunk the Pressure Pad flat!
The biggest problem you will have is sealing the end opposite to the wire.
There are two ways to go.
1. Be frugal, keep as much of the sleeve as possible and shorten the board or pad.
2. Make a new one. You will need a bag sealing machine like this one I use.
It works well for my 125deg C rated shrink tube if I use a high melting temperature and be persistent pressing both top and bottom of the end.
BTW here what the seal looks like
from the left, New version, Older version and Mine.
I suggest dropping some bucks and buying a bag sealing machine of your own (above 10" long). It will help you make custom bag sizes, seal your spare batteries in tight pocketable packs and if your are a survival freak you will have a packing joy-machine of your own. And your wife will love it if she freezes veggies for the winder.
Else find a shop that seals its products on its own (like ground coffee, nuts etc). If they have a bag sealer for paper bags you will be tops! They have a far wider seal like the ones you find in chip bags, condoms etc...
well that's all for now, please add you experiences & ...
enjoy, kostas
As promised in thread Ebay/Hong Kong Pressure Switch - Warning I am starting a new thread on Documenting Repairing and Modifying the Chinese Tape Switches.
This will be an ongoing project with more pictures and instructions as time allows and new tape switch (TS) modifications are made.
So...
This type of TS can be found for a variety flashlights. Superfire WF-501, the Ultrafires C-2, WF-510, WF-500, WF-600, C1, MC-1 Conqueror, the Solarforce L-2, etc. In fact once a flashlight has the standard 14mm wide switch boottie and enough room to host the TS module it is readily convertible.
TS Documentation
There have been 4 generations of TS. (The older on the left)
Let's examine them one by one
This is the older one. It is effectively a WF-501 switch board that the wires have been soldered to. And to stop them for tearing apart a cable zip type has been used. This type of switch is amenable to mods and this is the last time you see it. I will be using the board for a C-2 forward clicky mod shortly.
But two problems still remain. One is that jiggling the cable will still break off the wires from their soldering point. A solution can be tried will potting the zip tie with epoxy or hot-melt glue. (I will keep you updated on my results)
Also have a look at the spring part of the board. Do you notice a ring soldered? This is for preventing shorting on the Ultrafire C-2 switch module, since the retaining ring contacts both the ground and the spring. In the older WF-501 they were wise enough to have an insulating (black) ring, as seen here.
Now this is the second generation.
This time there is no zip tie, one wire is soldered on the spring base and the other is jammed in a groove on the aluminum module body.
This is the 3rd version.
A bit of an improvement
For the 4th generation I do not have a pic. (I did not have to disassemble one) As it can be seen in the collective pic above the board is press fitted and the ground wire goes through a hole and is soldered on the outer ring.
Update 1
Seems there is a sub version of Gen 4.
this one has a lower stem (the part that takes the place of the rubber tailcap and a different board as can be seen in the pic above.
Furthermore I had a look at the gen2 waterproofing. There is none since the cable passes through an oversize hole in the switch body. On the other hand the gen4 are a tight fit and passed the "air blow" test.
TS Dimensions
pic coming shortly...
I would like to point though that there has been a change in module body materials and dimensions.
Gen 1 is plastic, Gen 2&3 is aluminum and Gen 4 plastic again.
Also the part that extends over the flashlight tailcap is dimensioned 13.8mm at Gen 1. 13-13.4-13.8 at Gen 2&3, and 13mmat Gen 4.
So you are advised to always add a 12x1.5mm O-ring around that part to make a watertight seal.
TS Pressure Pads
Well even these have changed. Here are the two versions.
On the left is the newer one. A board with 5 push-on switches (they are exactly what is used is touch button in VCRs, DVD players etc)
On the right it is the older style. One insulated bronze pad with the springy contraption you see. This particular specimen is what is left of a pressure pad I made. And what it seems like paper masking tape is exactly that!!!!
There have been problems with the newer generation, It seems that just soldering the wires is not enough and they break off at the junction sooner or later. I had even TS be inoperable band new. Hell, they did not even got to the trouble of putting the wire through the soldering holes!!! So we must go to...
TS Pressure Pad Repairs
I had not the chance to repair one for wire disconnection. I would suggest though to solder them, and then add a zip tie as close to the board as possible. This way if it is yanked the zip tie stop on the shrunk part of the pad will hinder any internal movement.
Now lets talk about the black pressure pad sleeve/envelop.
It is not more than a heat shrinking cable tube. On the foreground there is a genuine older one and on the background a newer one I have prepared.
Just one note. Mine is a 125 deg C ratted one. The older genuine are 250-300 deg C ratted and the newer ones I do not know, but are thinner. Now don't go and set them close to a gun barrel like a buddy did and shrunk the Pressure Pad flat!
The biggest problem you will have is sealing the end opposite to the wire.
There are two ways to go.
1. Be frugal, keep as much of the sleeve as possible and shorten the board or pad.
2. Make a new one. You will need a bag sealing machine like this one I use.
It works well for my 125deg C rated shrink tube if I use a high melting temperature and be persistent pressing both top and bottom of the end.
BTW here what the seal looks like
from the left, New version, Older version and Mine.
I suggest dropping some bucks and buying a bag sealing machine of your own (above 10" long). It will help you make custom bag sizes, seal your spare batteries in tight pocketable packs and if your are a survival freak you will have a packing joy-machine of your own. And your wife will love it if she freezes veggies for the winder.
Else find a shop that seals its products on its own (like ground coffee, nuts etc). If they have a bag sealer for paper bags you will be tops! They have a far wider seal like the ones you find in chip bags, condoms etc...
well that's all for now, please add you experiences & ...
enjoy, kostas
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