Driver board list / regulator board list.

KowShak

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May 7, 2008
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UK
indeed it is...
BTW i was meaning to ask in due time.....is there a way to make this board a single mode????

well I have a suingle piece of 7882 just in case. So what I have done with it is put it in a ziploc wih a label only....sorry

It would be interesting to see how the two compare both in terms of performance (brightness) and in terms of efficiency.

I'm trying to decide which to use in a high performance 2xAA light, the efficiency of 15880 isn't great on 2 2xAA at 63%, is 7882 any better? Can it deliver the same current?
 

kosPap

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KowShak, if you are reffering to me I do not see making anymore tests any time soon.

All, I have updated post #138 with revised tables and more measurements.

CYA, Kostas
 

KowShak

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KowShak, if you are reffering to me I do not see making anymore tests any time soon.

All, I have updated post #138 with revised tables and more measurements.

CYA, Kostas

Well, that was what I was hinting at, although they're not expensive so I'll order one of each and have a play. Hopefully I can produce some data which is as useful as yours. There are a couple of questions I have relating to testing drivers.

A high Vf LED means a boost driver has to do a bigger step up and that may effect efficiency, so does the forward voltage of the LED matter?

Some drivers die if they're run without an LED connected, how careful would I have to be about making sure the circuit is properly connected to the LED? Do you solder everything semi-permanantly?
 

kosPap

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Well, that was what I was hinting at, although they're not expensive so I'll order one of each and have a play. Hopefully I can produce some data which is as useful as yours. There are a couple of questions I have relating to testing drivers.

A high Vf LED means a boost driver has to do a bigger step up and that may effect efficiency, so does the forward voltage of the LED matter?

Some drivers die if they're run without an LED connected, how careful would I have to be about making sure the circuit is properly connected to the LED? Do you solder everything semi-permanantly?


1. Man these days time is precious for me....you cannot even pay me a million to redirect me from my purposes/plan/likes....I ahd to ask for a 2 week off filed work to calm down...

2. Probably, but I am not teh proper person to tel you with 100% certainty.

3. Indeed all driver, LED connectiosn are soldered. Rest is crocodile clips.
In order to get good practicla results I installed the LED in a P60 module, soldered wires on the led and fed them through the holes. So it was a jiffy to put the module over the lightbox hole and measure real life performace.
Now this module is no more, cos I added the 15880 board (finnally)

BYW there is a mod to use such a board in a P60 module and I hope by tomorrow it wil be completed an pics added....

All the best, kostas
 

kosPap

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yep... but do not forget that a proper tetsbed needs good heatsinking for the LED and Driver....

I have not made amenities for this yet (for my own reasons) but if you must start from scratch you better make it a good one.
 

waTom

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Nov 22, 2006
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Germany
Hi,

Does anyone know whether the sku.7882 driver is a boost only or is it buck/boost?

Thanks very much,

Tom
 

ironmang

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Nov 6, 2008
Messages
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Does anyone know of a driver i can use to power a p7 if i have 3 D sized Li-ons hooked up in parallel ?

So my input would be 3.5-4.2 v at 15A
 

VegasF6

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Dec 5, 2007
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Hi,

Does anyone know whether the sku.7882 driver is a boost only or is it buck/boost?

Thanks very much,

Tom

Tom, to the best of my knowledge, that driver is boost only, it is voltage based, not constant current. Truth is, it isn't really constant voltage either, it depends stronly on your input voltage, but it will boost. One source I have found claims that if your voltage in is higher than voltage out, it will direct drive.
http://www.e-lectronics.net/driver-board-input-voltage-8v7v-njg18-p-422.html
I haven't tested this board with greater than 3 volts personally.

Ironmang:
Since your voltages will be very near VF of the P7 one possible option for you will be a linear regulator. It should be pretty efficient for you, though I don't know the VF of your particular led. What is the bin code of what you have purchased? You can use an amc7135 based board, here is a thread discussing it:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/201392
Or this one:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/195358
You could also probably get away with a simple resistor, though it would dim sooner than it would with a linear. I am sure there are other options, but this might get you going in the right direction.
 

VegasF6

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the p7 i'm using is a j bin - DSXOJ

The J bin P7's have a higher forward voltage of course. You can still use the amc7135 drivers, but your time in regulation will be shorter than it would with an "I." The amc7135 is a "low voltage dropout" regulator, but as near as I can tell, it still drops something like .2 volts from the regulator. If you choose to keep the reverse polarity diodes inline, you would lose even more voltage, so you would probably choose to lose them. So, you start with something like 4.2 volts from your cells, drop .2 at least from that, giving you 4.0. J bin P7 can be as high as 3.75VF at that current rate, so you will quickly be below that voltage, even with your massive battery bank. Something like 85-90% of your battery life will be below VF. Now, that isn't a bad thing per say, but it does mean you won't be seeing full brightness. You may want to look in the Der Wichtel buck driver, I think it is rated up to 25V, and running your battery pack serial.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/201981
I haven't really read much up on it, but to the best of my knowledge it is a voltage regulator, not current. I think you hook up your load and adjust the voltage via onboard pot until you see the current you want. I don't know what, if anything has been done to protect against thermal runaway, but I haven't seen any complaints.

Oh yah, another option is the "shark buck" that you can get at the sandwich shoppe.
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_49_61&products_id=1205
As far as I know (I say that a lot :) ) it is a current controlled solution.
 
Last edited:

ironmang

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Nov 6, 2008
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thanks Vegas. A bit of a noob here... generally, how can I tell if a regulator regulates current vs voltage or both, and what limits are for current ? most info or specs i've been reading about regulators generally only says what max input voltage they can take, they generally only mention what the output current will be.
 

kramer5150

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Joined
Sep 6, 2005
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6,328
Location
Palo Alto, CA
Noob... needing help from the pros.

I want to try using DX:7882 set at ~1.3A out with 3xC cells (or 3xD if I can get them to fit in my host). Has anyone tried this?...I understand the 7882 runs DD when Vin>3.6V. My concern is with the higher capacity cells, it would run direct drive for a longer time than with lower capacity cells. Do you think I will cook a cree R2?

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7882

Would I be better off with this driver?
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_49_61&products_id=1107

thanks:p
 

Aircraft800

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Joined
Apr 24, 2007
Messages
1,487
Location
DFW Texas.
guys I have just completed some measurements of the KD flavor.

First of all it is a 3 groups-many modes board as following:
1. Low-Med-High
2. Low-Med-High-Strobe-SOS
3. Low-Med-High-Strobe-Warning Strobe (3 rapid blinks)-2Hz beacon-1Hz Beqacon-7 sec beacon-SOS

And here is what I measured:

dx15880hn2.jpg


So....this mode is going in a D26 module with 2AAs in a 3 cell Surefire, IF I find a way to lengthen the +contact spring!

I see you guys testing the SKU: S005872 from Kai:
Boost and Buck Circuit For CREE XR-E Q5 LED


which looks exactly like the sku.15880 from DX:
17mm 1000mAh 5-Mode with Mode-Memory LEDDriver Circuit Board for Cree XR-E Emitters (0.9~4.5V Input)

How did you heatsink it, and what components? I haven't seen to much more on this board, or if it is actually broken into A/B/C groups, and how to switch between them.

Thanks!
 

kosPap

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Mar 1, 2007
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Naoussa Greece
No I did not heatsink it....saw no reason to since It took a sec to measure....(do not know if it makes a difference if it warms up)

Indeed it is the same though the programming (if it is accurately posted) is different...and I did not test my DX sample yet....
 

metlarules

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Joined
Jan 30, 2008
Messages
1,027
Noob... needing help from the pros.

I want to try using DX:7882 set at ~1.3A out with 3xC cells (or 3xD if I can get them to fit in my host). Has anyone tried this?...I understand the 7882 runs DD when Vin>3.6V. My concern is with the higher capacity cells, it would run direct drive for a longer time than with lower capacity cells. Do you think I will cook a cree R2?

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7882

Would I be better off with this driver?
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_49_61&products_id=1107

thanks:p
I'm interested to know the same thing.
It seems to be the same board as here http://e-lectronics.net/boost-driver-board-input-voltage-8v7v-njg18-p-422.html
 

filibuster

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Joined
Dec 27, 2005
Messages
205
Though this board doesn't lend itself to small flashlights it is a very good and efficient step down DC to DC converter.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Step-Down-DC-DC-Converter-Charger-Regulator-Controller_W0QQitemZ230338695225QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item35a1419039&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262&_trkparms=|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A30


I don't know of another source besides eBay but they have been very good to work with.

The specs listed in the description are accurate at least from the testing I've done using it with a 12v system down to USB 5v type outputs.
 
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