driver for Cree R2?

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jamie.91

jamie.91

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driver+smoke= BAD

okay i know most people on here like better lights than the EastwardYJ YJ-XGR2

but i baught one anyways here

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.17382

and i kind of expected it to break and it did! so just now i decided to "HAVE A LOOK AT IT"

i took off the bezel to expose the star then unscrewed the "pill" and entered my batterys from the top, i know this is wrong but i didnt see a problem lol i mean it was broke anyways, so i enter the batteries from the top and as i begin to screw the pill back in the driver begins to smoke lmao

anyways i need a new driver but i dont know which one to get so i need your help, it needs to accept 3.6V to 9V and be 18mm in diameter

can you help me ? or maybe tell me why it smoked on me lol

thanks jamie

EDIT: whilst im replacing parts anyways is there a better driver and brighter emmiter i can buy to get more than the manufacture rated 250 lumens ? thanks
 
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Re: driver+smoke= BAD

That is strange... Theres a short somewhere, you'll have to inspect it very carefully to find where first. I'd take care of this before attempting a driver swap, or you'll just cook the new driver.

can you post some macro pics of the driver, pill assembly and some of the other parts? It might be sloppy soldering or perhaps the reflector is shorting across the XR-E led.

I can't offer any help on which driver to use in that voltage range. I only use single cell 7135 drivers.

Yes 250 emitter lumens (225 OTF) is about the max for an XR-E light this size. You can get more if you use IMR cells and over drive the LED, but you are going to shorten the lifespan of the XR-E, and it will suffer from thermal dimming ~40 seconds into the run. So your net gain is a loss. IMHO the better designs slightly under-drive the LED (currents less than 1.4A), in favor of stable output and longevity. My DIY builds use 1.4A DC-DC boards, but I am not using IMR cells with them so the LED is only seeing ~1-1.2A, I get 205L OTF on a cold start and that drops to about 175L after ~4 minutes and the light warms up (as tested in Garys sphere).
 
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Re: driver+smoke= BAD

kramer5150 said:
That is strange... Theres a short somewhere, you'll have to inspect it very carefully to find where first. I'd take care of this before attempting a driver swap, or you'll just cook the new driver.

can you post some macro pics of the driver, pill assembly and some of the other parts? It might be sloppy soldering or perhaps the reflector is shorting across the XR-E led.

I can't offer any help on which driver to use in that voltage range. I only use single cell 7135 drivers.

Yes 250 emitter lumens (225 OTF) is about the max for an XR-E light this size. You can get more if you use IMR cells and over drive the LED, but you are going to shorten the lifespan of the XR-E, and it will suffer from thermal dimming ~40 seconds into the run. So your net gain is a loss. IMHO the better designs slightly under-drive the LED (currents less than 1.4A), in favor of stable output and longevity.
Click to expand...

thanks this helps a lot i will get some pics now and i dont think its the reflector shorting on the emitter as there is a piece of paper over the star and the reflector was off when this happened

jamie
 
Re: driver+smoke= BAD

There is one user report on DX of that light being a battery crusher. (springs bottom out before the switch cap does). Lights like this can damage the protection circuit in the cell when the cap crushes down on the cells inside. theoretically this could be whats happening, although I would expect a lithium expolsion and something more dramatic than just DC-DC board smoke

Food for thought...
 
Re: driver+smoke= BAD

well theres a spring at both ends so i might remove one or swap it

btw pics are uploading to photobucket

jamie
 
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Re: driver+smoke= BAD

on either side of the board there are pins exposed that look as if it is from the board being sanded on 2 opposite sides

jamie
 
Re: driver+smoke= BAD

Oh NOES!!! Its the DX driver of DOOM. The current rendition SKU:11836 P60 module uses this DC-DC board and its a poor design choice. You can read about it here...
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=236337

I was hoping they would not use it in anything else other than the 11836, apparently they are:confused:

Oh BTW... your pics are too big, moderators will delete them. You should resize them or just upload the URL links / thumbnails.

That is the output mode EPROM that fried. I had a single cell, multi mode DC-DC board in one of my DIY builds. I accidentally put two 16340 cells in it and its EPROM controller cooked just exactly like yours did. It burn't off the writing from the chip and melted the plastic case on the corner like that. I am guessing the builder of your DC-DC boards used the wrong EPROM chip for this voltage range.
 
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Re: driver+smoke= BAD

HAHA youre great thanks for the help and boy do you know what your talking about

btw do you know of a replacement driver ?

so what caused it to go now not the first time i used it ?

thanks jamie
 
Re: driver+smoke= BAD

jamie.91 said:
HAHA youre great thanks for the help and boy do you know what your talking about

btw do you know of a replacement driver ?

so what caused it to go now not the first time i used it ?

thanks jamie
Click to expand...

You know what... that might not be the mode controlling EPROM... I am merely speculating that is its function.
:thinking:

This sliver of metal adjacent to the fried component looks oddly out of place, and could be the source of your short.
dxno.png


I really can't recommend an equivalent replacement.. I only use single cell 18650 boards with all my DIY builds. SKU #'s 1886 and 6190 are my favorites. They are just 7135 current drivers in parallel, the 6190 uses PWM and an EPORM chip to provide additional output modes.
 
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Re: driver+smoke= BAD

ahha youre good and thanks for croping the pics im no good at macro shots and my cam aint the best lol

im not bothered about modes i just want on and off with continuos full power and im not bothered about efficience as runtime is not a problem, i just want continuous high output

is there anyone in particular oon here who could recomend me a driver ?

thanks jamie
 
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Re: driver+smoke= BAD

i still cant find a suitable driver is there anywhere else i could buy drivers from exept DX ?

thanks jamie

Edit- it says on the side of the light Cree R2 so i guess this is the emmiter, what drivers have people used with these emmiters before ?
 
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i need a driver for a Cree R2 on an 18mm pcb.

it was in my EastwardYJ YJ-XGR2 and which made 250 lumens but the origonal driver was a POS and burned out

thanks jamie
 
Re: driver+smoke= BAD

That IC is not an EPROM. That IC is the YB1682 buck IC. It looks like that sliver of junk may have shorted Pin 2, which is Vin.

Your driver board is replaceable by any number of standard 17mm diameter buck driver boards. Not sure why you specify 18mm. The board in your photos is used in the DX11836 SureFire P60 LED drop-in, and those all use a 17mm driver.

The driver you had severely overdrives the Cree R2 LED.

Not sure how your light is two-mode. Your current driver is single mode. Is there some sort of mode switching, such as via a resistor, built into the tailcap?

I would get this replacement driver, also single mode:

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=1640

Presumably, if you were able to get two modes with your original setup, you should get two modes using this KD1640 driver.
 
Re: driver+smoke= BAD

Justin Case said:
That IC is not an EPROM. That IC is the YB1682 buck IC. It looks like that sliver of junk may have shorted Pin 2, which is Vin.

Your driver board is replaceable by any number of standard 17mm diameter buck driver boards. Not sure why you specify 18mm. The board in your photos is used in the DX11836 SureFire P60 LED drop-in, and those all use a 17mm driver.

The driver you had severely overdrives the Cree R2 LED.

Not sure how your light is two-mode. Your current driver is single mode. Is there some sort of mode switching, such as via a resistor, built into the tailcap?


http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=1640

Presumably, if you were able to get two modes with your original setup, you should get two modes using this KD1640 driver.
Click to expand...


THANKS! yeah the tailcap has a resistor and sorry for the measurement my digital vernier is a POS

thanks jamie
 
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Please don't post 2 threads on the same topic - it contravenes Rule 9. I'm merging them.

Furthermore, this is not really the right forum for this topic. I'm moving the combined thread to the Electronics section.
 
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