Dropped New Stinger LED! ouch

[texbaz]

I'm Very New to the Forums but I have been looking around. Today at work, I dropped my 1 week old Stinger LED. I'd say about 2FT on to Concrete (hangar) Now I have had stingers (incans) for years and they can handle just about any drop from about 3-4ft but the Stinger LED is toast. The beam has a large dark spot right in the middle of the spot and the output is very low. Seems like the emitters are rather fragile.

I was wondering if I should send it in to Streamlight or try my hand at installing a SSC P4 emitter or is their something better out now. I saw the thread another forum member started on modding the Stinger LED with a P4 just wondering about reliability, guess it can't be any worse than the Streamlight emitter.

 

[NotRegulated]

I would call Streamlight and explain what happened. I am fairly certain they will replace it under warranty.

 

[leprechaun414]

I would call Streamlight and explain what happened. I am fairly certain they will replace it under warranty.

Call streamlight. They should take care of you.

 

[Patriot]

I was wondering if I should send it in to Streamlight or try my hand at installing a SSC P4 emitter or is their something better out now. I saw the thread another forum member started on modding the Stinger LED with a P4 just wondering about reliability, guess it can't be any worse than the Streamlight emitter.

I saw that thread also but can't find it now. It was about two or three weeks ago that I saw it discussed. I'd go for the P4. I like that light except for the LED. A P4 would really transform that light into a first rate tool with great brightness and efficiency. The mod sounded really easy too me and I was thinking about doing it to my friends LED Stinger...if he will let me........:sweat:

 

[light_emitting_dude]

You could try to MOD IT! That is of course you want to void the warranty. It sounds like something internally though maybe the battery or a circuit or the LED was dislodged somehow. Try swapping batteries with your old incan stinger (they are the same). That woluld at least rule out the battery. Also check the LED. You can do this by unscrewing the bezel. It should be secured with thermal epoxy at the base of the emitter.
Good luck with SL if you return it for repair.


Here is the mod I did on my Stinger LED.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=153407

 

[Steve L]

I would contact Streamlight and get the light serviced if it's covered under warranty. If you switch the LED first and find out the problem is something else, you will have voided the warranty. You can always do the mod after getting the light back. You might also try to get in touch with the dealer you purchased it from, you never know they might let you exchange since you have only had it for a week.

 

[texbaz]

Well I ended up going to a So called Service center vendor in Dallas called Wistol Supply and picked up a switch/LED assy cost was $10.00 I figured it would cost that much just to send it back to SL. Even though this was a bonafide SL service center the guy made no offer to supply me with the part as part of SL's "no excuse warranty". Anyway, new switch/LED assy is installed and working kinda OK the New switch is intermittent every 20 or so clicks, but I'll just deal with that later got my work light back.

What really want to do is, install another emitter or Star I don't really know what the correct description is, but since I have the OLD switch assy I figured I could experiment. Could I install a Q5 bin XR-E emitter, if I could find one or, maybe a SSC P4 emitter or is it a Star. I'm not real familiar with the terminology, Sorry. I was just hoping to get something for around 10-15 bucks. Do I have to change the Driver and would that be the Circuit board built into the switch.
Mike

Photo of the OLD switch assy.

 

[Gunner12]

It's probably better to use a Seoul P4 because of the closer beam pattern of the Seoul.

I think all you will have to do is unsolder the LED(keeping track of the positive and negative side) and adding some thermal epoxy(ensuring the LED will be isolated form the heatsink) and soldering the new LED on.

The cheaper Edison Opto would also work and no worries about isolating the emitter. But there will be a ring of yellower light around the hot spot.