"DX "Elly" converted...."?? Please Look

Comidt

Newly Enlightened
Joined
May 16, 2007
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94
Hi
I was browsing around the forum and went to page 3 of the forum and found this: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=153641:eek:oo:
I see you can still buy that flashlight off Deal Extreme: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1120

Anyway, how can the DVD diode run off only 1 AA batt? What kind of lifetime/power can you get out of the diode running off the 1 batt? Does it have some kind of other electronics to step up voltage or what? Will any 1 AA battery flashlight off Deal Extreme work to power the DVD Diode?
Oh and will the 'Elly' fit the Aixiz laser module?
I found out that the Electronics step the voltage up to 3.6v. Is this safe for a DVD LAser Diode??

Thanks
Jonno
 
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The boosted output of the Elly is actually regulated to 5.0V, and it is capable of delivering something on the order of 250-300mA.

The 3.6V is the white LED's forward voltage. Since there's no resistor in the Elly, the boost circuit runs in current limit mode at the load (LED) forward voltage drop...so you measure 3.6V with the LED connected, and 5V with no load...

Since the Elly is voltage regulated, it's easy to use a simple resistor to limit the current to a red LD. All you need to know is the forward voltage drop of the LD, your desired current, and Ohm's Law.

For example, assume the red LD drops 2.3V and you want to run it at 150mA.

You subtract, source minus load

5 - 2.3 = 2.7V (this is the voltage dropped by the resistor)

Then divide voltage by current

2.7 / 0.15 = 18 ohms

Then you calculate the resistor dissipation by multiplying voltage x current

2.7 * 0.15 = 0.04W, or 40mW - so an 18 ohm, 1/8 watt resistor is indicated

You should never, ever, EVER apply battery power directly to the laser diode without any current limiting resistor or circuit. I can't believe so many people are getting away with it. The only thing saving these diodes from instant destruction is the internal resistance of the battery itself. If you were to connect a larger battery (NiCd or NiMH "C" cell for example) with a lower internal impedance, the diode WILL go "poof". Same if you connect a power supply directly to the diode...poof. Right Now.

I have a 18X writer coming for a diode harvest (self-imposed Father's Day present) and will post a write-up on it, as usual. :D
 
Thanks so much Corona :):thumbsup:.
You sure know a lot about this kind of stuff.
So just to clarify, since I can work with electronics, but have no real idea of what I'm doing... I will take the driver board from the flashlight (would this one be okay: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3762? I like it more than Elly)
And then desolder the LED, solder in a 125 mWatt/ 18 ohm resistor where? between pos and neg or what?? Then solder in my DVD Diode in Collimating Case, put in AA batt and voila. Is that right?
Thanks again Corona:thumbsup:(Sent You a P.M.)
Jonno
 
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Ok I'm going to play dumb and take the chance to learn from this. Electronics has always been a love of mine but math and whatnot has not. I'm going to shoot some questions past ya corona and use that big brain of yours to make mine bigger.

1. How do you determine the forward voltage drop of the LD? what do you mean by "drops" quote "assume the red LD drops 2.3V"

2. lets assume we are using No driver or anything but a straight battery. Voltage at this point isn't relevant as I need to understand how to adapt this to anything. (just for fun lets say it's a cr123 3.0v. lithiums in this case)

3. What is a means of determining the current for a diode? Is there any method? I know there is a trial by fire method where you continue to step up and up until it pops. Would a plain potentiometer work in this?

4. Once you have determined the current you want and the source of current (battery) You can figure the voltage or current reduction by subtracting the draw the LD uses minus the voltage of the battery. got it in your example above 18 ohms. What though is the resistor dissapation?

Hey thanks in advance for your training me. I am starting to get this. Now if I can get an answer to the questions posed I might get it completely.
 
You should never, ever, EVER apply battery power directly to the laser diode without any current limiting resistor or circuit. I can't believe so many people are getting away with it. The only thing saving these diodes from instant destruction is the internal resistance of the battery itself. If you were to connect a larger battery (NiCd or NiMH "C" cell for example) with a lower internal impedance, the diode WILL go "poof". Same if you connect a power supply directly to the diode...poof. Right Now.

Would you mind elaborating a bit? I have applied 500ma to the diode I am playing with, a few times for a couple seconds each, with no limiting resister and it did not go poof.

I have applied 200ma many times to the same diode, for up to 30 seconds at a time, with no limiting resister and it did not go poof. I know I am pushing the diode to the limits and I have been doing it intentionally. But I don't really get why a current limiting resister is needed except for long duty cycles, when using a couple of Nimh batteries which have a nominal voltage of 1.2 volts each.
 
Would you mind elaborating a bit? I have applied 500ma to the diode I am playing with, a few times for a couple seconds each, with no limiting resister and it did not go poof.
If you're using a current source, you don't need a resistor. However a battery is more like a voltage source, NOT a current source.
 
If you're using a current source, you don't need a resistor. However a battery is more like a voltage source, NOT a current source.

To get the more than 500ma current draw, I used three Nimh batteries. So what do you consider a current source? I am more confused now than ever...lol
 
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1. How do you determine the forward voltage drop of the LD? what do you mean by "drops" quote "assume the red LD drops 2.3V"
You measure it, at the operating current, or get this figure from a datasheet. Like all semiconductor diodes, LEDs and laser diodes have an forward operating voltage, and in a series circuit this is the voltage "dropped" across the diode. If the voltage is below this value, the device can not conduct (turn on). And 5V > 2.3V

If the source voltage is above this "turn on" value, the current will (theoretically) increase without bounds, unless something limits it. Hence a resistor or other means of controlling the current.

Note that as the current is increased, the forward voltage drop of the diode will increase somewhat, so it is important to consult the datasheet (if available) or measure the voltage drop at the operating current you intend to run the diode at when designing your current control circuit.

This probably explains why these diodes survive being connected directly across 2 NiMH cells in series; this is ~2.4V which is apparently within the operating range of these diodes. So from Gazoo's data, we could derive that the forward voltage of his diode is equal to his battery (source) voltage, at 200mA (measured).

Operating that laser at 500mA is asking for trouble and will eventually damage the laser's mirror facet (ablation from excess laser energy), substrate (dissipation limit of semiconductor), or both.

2. lets assume we are using No driver or anything but a straight battery. Voltage at this point isn't relevant as I need to understand how to adapt this to anything. (just for fun lets say it's a cr123 3.0v. lithiums in this case)

3. What is a means of determining the current for a diode? Is there any method? I know there is a trial by fire method where you continue to step up and up until it pops. Would a plain potentiometer work in this?
You can use a pot to adjust the current, but beware the dissipation spec of the pot (more later)

4. Once you have determined the current you want and the source of current (battery) You can figure the voltage or current reduction by subtracting the draw the LD uses minus the voltage of the battery. got it in your example above 18 ohms. What though is the resistor dissapation?
Resistor dissipation is the POWER in watts that the resistor must dissipate as heat. If the resistor is undersized, it will be damaged and may even catch on fire.

Note that the laser diode itself also dissipates heat, in fact most of the energy input to the diode is wasted as heat, only a small percentage is outputted as light. This is why we need to heatsink these laser diodes...

Understand also that batteries have some (albeit very low) internal resistance that limits the discharge / short-circuit current, though this is typically several AMPS for AA-size cells. Also, an ammeter has a low-value resistor inside, which becomes part of the series circuit when connected (the "ammeter" actually measures the VOLTAGE dropped across this internal resistor in order to measure the current through the meter).

If I get some time, I'll put together a tutorial with some simple schematics, etc. but I suggest scouring Sam's Laser FAQ (link here)
 
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I am currently reading Sam's and it's quite a lot to take in. I have to read an article or two and soak it in. Few weeks sometimes. I would love to see your tutorial when it gets here. My father was the one who got me involved in electronics initially but he doesn't explain things very well. I've been able to understand more from your short posts than my father has taught me in the last 20 years. LOL
 
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