E1E as a first "good" incan light?

BigBluefish

Flashlight Enthusiast
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I've been on CPF for about a year now, and am mostly an LED guy. I thought I should get one good incan, just to see how I like it, really, and because the one thing I DON'T like about my LEDs with the possible exception of a Q2 in my Fenix L1T, is the rather crappy, washed-out look they give to colors (mostly greens and browns) when used outdoors. The LED beam also seems to mess up my depth perception, but maybe it's just me. But that's not a good thing if I'm walking on a rocky, uneven trail after dark...

So, I've managed to convince myself to spend about $75 for a flashlight that will put out about 15 -25 lumens, depending on whose lamp I use, for about an hour and a half on one battery - the SureFire E1E. I've always kind of wanted one, partly for the way it looks, feels in the hand, the real quality it offers, and of course, it's a SureFire, and still want an E1L, but somehow, $75 seems easier to swallow than $130, and I still get all the SureFire goodnes, just no LED. The E1L is by all acounts a great light, and I'll probably end up getting one eventually, but I've already got a dozen bargain class to good LEDS. And I can always get a TLS or Surefire head for the E1E in the future, if I just have to have more output and runtime, right?

I've realized the closest thing to a quality incan ligh I've ever used is a Mag. The only other incan light I even own is a Streamlight TT 1L, which has an abolutely ghastly beam profile when shone on a white wall. But take it outdoors at night, and it really isn't half bad. And for walking around in the pitch black, or illuminating stuff up to about 30' away, really does just fine. Yeah, the runtime is crap, but the light itself seems well built and has a great form factor; too bad the incan/led combo and rellector isn't the best.

So I'm hoping the E1E will be even better as a short range "light up what's under your feet" light, and that the optic will actually give me a little reach. And I'm hoping that the incan bulb will make things look a whole lot better than the LEDs do. Maybe there will even be enough output to make the F04 diffuser work, and give me a short range flood - something to light up the area around the tent and table, etc. I've got an LM33 which on low does a nice job in that regard, but it's got one of those funny LED tints to it....kinda yellowy-green (which is odd, since it's got an SSC P4.)

Am I going to find this to be the case, that the E1E is really a kick-a** little light, or have I just spent a ridiculous amount of money on an outdated, outclassed piece of 25 year old technology?
 
Yeah, right, another "LED-guy" that comes to the conclusion that LEDs are not always the right choice for in the woods. That pleases my incan-mind 😗

The E1E surely is a nice little pocket rocket, but the light intensity won't satisfy the needs for in the woods. It's just not bright enough.

When you want to shed some serious money to buy just ONE good incan light, go for either the C2 Centurion or the C3 Centurion. The C3 will have some advantages over the C2: assuming you are going to use it with rechargeables, the C3 will offer about double the runtime of the C2, and/or the possibility to use brighter lamp assemblies.

From my own experiences in the woods, a C3 with the standard P90 lamp assembly works really fine. Two AW 17500s give you nearly an hour of runtime.

The C2, as well as the C3 are THE incan lights to have from SureFire. They offer great versatility, a very good handling with that combat-ring and the square body... just grab one, and you instantly feel: THIS is right!

And... if you are not in the woods, you can drop in one of the LED-dropins that are available today!

Just see your local SF-dealer and take one in the hand... I think you'll agree that these lights are very fine indeed 🙂


Timmo.
 
I would start with the E2e/6P for that first push...then you can choose to cut back on lumens if you want. First impression is usually best prepared on a leap:shrug:
 
I was thinking of picking up an H0-E1A, since I don't have any rechargeables. I figure it should give me about 25 OTF lumens compared to the SF 15, and still just about an hour or runtime. Guess I'll have to give it a try to see if it really makes any differene in practical use.

Illum: I'm really liking the E2E/E20 lights, too. But they are a little big to be pocketable, and I'm a little leary of two-cell CR123a lights going :poof:, but I'm sure I'll get into 2-cell lights shortly. The E2E seems like a nice light, with the MN02 and MN03 lamps, then the HO & EO lamps from LF if I want to go the rechargeable route.
 
I had the E2e and while it is a great light just too big for pocket carry and have plenty of other lights for daily uses. So it had to go. But now I regret getting rid of it. :ohgeez:
 
I find myself being "spoiled" by high output lights...and, every once in awhile, it comes back to me...how little light you really need in the woods. the E1E throws pretty good given it's size, and has decent flood as well. When you don't want to wake up the whole forest, the E1E is a good little light. Still have mine (factory bulb)...always will...
 
Speaking as one 'LED guy' to another, the SureFire C3 is a fantastic choice as 325addict suggested. Two rechargeable 17500 cells are where it's at for runtime (something like an ?hour? with the 100 lumen SureFire P90 incan lamp assembly, would that be correct?), and it's my only light that can conveniently switch back and forth between Incan and LED, lithium-primary 3xCR123 for either, LiIon rechargeable 2x17500 for either as well - the voltages for either cell chemistry configuration match perfectly for both Incan & LED setups. Well, that and my SureFire G3, same configuration really.
 
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I was thinking of picking up an H0-E1A, since I don't have any rechargeables. I figure it should give me about 25 OTF lumens compared to the SF 15, and still just about an hour or runtime. Guess I'll have to give it a try to see if it really makes any differene in practical use.

Illum: I'm really liking the E2E/E20 lights, too. But they are a little big to be pocketable, and I'm a little leary of two-cell CR123a lights going :poof:, but I'm sure I'll get into 2-cell lights shortly. The E2E seems like a nice light, with the MN02 and MN03 lamps, then the HO & EO lamps from LF if I want to go the rechargeable route.

I have a pair of used Lumen Factory lamps [EO-E1R and HO-E1R, respectively] I no longer have use for after converting my E2es into LED and relying on my mag85s for incandescent power
If your in the US I can have them sent to you for free:thumbsup:

Ahh...back when I still had an E1e I used the EO-E1R on nights with short runs or carried as a spare. The outputs relatively on par with the MN03
the HO-E1R is for those times when you have a feeling you'll be outdoors all night and battery life is of more value than output.
Both lamps are a bit black, but they are still fully functional. 🙄

I'd urge you to try the AW RCR123A LiCoO2 rechargeable cells, they are not as scary as they have been made out to be, especially when you respect them and use them correctly.
 
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I agree with a few of the others that the E2e makes a much better multi-purpose light with more usage options. With the E1e, you step into the bare minimum incan setup aside from a pen light. Yes, it will do in a pinch but I personally feel that it serves best as an emergency light. Acutually, due the E1e's output and run-time I would personally consider it lacking if you're going to be doing some hiking. After 10 minutes of use it will be noticable more orange in color temperature and on the complete opposite end of the scale from the LED's that you're used to. For single cell lights I think a much better choice would be a bin Q3 5A warm white LED. Going to a 2 cells adds a lot to the flexibility in run-time and output and really suits incans much better, which are going to be used as non-emergency lights for any length of time. Since you're talking about times of an hour plus, I would completely toss out the idea of a single CR123. With the E2e you can even run a bulb with less output for a lot longer period of time, that will have much flatter output over time.

I used to own four E1e's but due to some of the useage issues I've mentioned I'm now down to one. I also though they'd make good hiking, hunting, camping lights but I was wrong. It felt like I was always changing batteries.
 
I originally bought an E1e to serve the TW4 era😉
I bought two actually, with sequencing serial numbers...then I gave one to carrot and I dunno what I did with the other one:candle:
 
The E1e is a great little light. But I'll admit, mine has been a bit neglected most of it's life (sitting on a shelf, not getting used)...until recently. My E1e now serves in my EDC rotation since I bought Fivemega's Strion kit and run 1x AW IMR16340. It gives me about 20 minutes or rechargeable, incan bliss. 😀 I would say its output is somewhere in between a SF P60 and P90, all in the tiny E1e body.

For general woods use, my go-to light is definitely my SF G3 with 2x AW protected 17500 cells and the P90 LA.

I think you will like the E1e. Give it a try with the stock MN01 and if it isn't enough light, upgrade to either a Lumens factory lamp or FM's strion kit. The LF HO-E1A is a nice upgrade while still maintaing 60 minutes of runtime on 1 CR123 primary (my fiancée runs this lamp in her "E1eBD" and really likes it). The MN01 isn't a blow-you-away bright lamp, but it puts out a decently bright, nice, smooth incan beam and has decent runtime. Go for it :thumbsup:
 
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I agree with a few of the others that the E2e makes a much better multi-purpose light with more usage options. With the E1e, you step into the bare minimum incan setup aside from a pen light. Yes, it will do in a pinch but I personally feel that it serves best as an emergency light. Acutually, due the E1e's output and run-time I would personally consider it lacking if you're going to be doing some hiking. After 10 minutes of use it will be noticable more orange in color temperature and on the complete opposite end of the scale from the LED's that you're used to. For single cell lights I think a much better choice would be a bin Q3 5A warm white LED. Going to a 2 cells adds a lot to the flexibility in run-time and output and really suits incans much better, which are going to be used as non-emergency lights for any length of time. Since you're talking about times of an hour plus, I would completely toss out the idea of a single CR123. With the E2e you can even run a bulb with less output for a lot longer period of time, that will have much flatter output over time.
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I agree with that 100%.
My first ever quality light was a debate between the E1e or E2e, many said their output was very very similar but I could not understand the large gap between 15 lumens and 60. I bought the E2e for brightness and longer runtime. In the end I think I made the best decision to go with the E2e. I later traded it as I had it just sitting there(wanted it to be edc but too long)
 
If you go with a 2-cell incan, I would strongly urge you to give the A2 Aviator a good look. IMO, it's one of the very best representations of what an incan can be (bright white, regulated(!!), and soft start). I've seen some NIB A2s go for around $100 or so on CPF Marketplace and new/like new for <$100.
 
+1 on the Aviator! It really is an awesome light. It is surprisingly small and slender, easily fitting in a jeans pocket, and its regulated incan beam is killer! It stays at the same bright, white output level for its entire run time, unlike practically every other commonly available incan out there. Even though it is rated at 50 lumens, it appears to be at least as bright as a p60 to me, and because of the regulation it will be putting out much more light than a p60 towards the end of their runtimes. Of course, it also has three 5mm leds to serve as a floody low, and there is also the 2 stage swich- press for low (LEDs, flood), press further for high (incan, throw). Even if the A2 had no LEDs, the regulated incan beam would still make it worth getting. There is just so much to like about the aviator! :thumbsup:
 
+1 on the Aviator! It really is an awesome light. It is surprisingly small and slender, easily fitting in a jeans pocket, and its regulated incan beam is killer! It stays at the same bright, white output level for its entire run time, unlike practically every other commonly available incan out there.

its somewhat bigger than an E2e...so if your having trouble fitting that in your [jean?] pockets, consider a holster for your A2🙄

Even though it is rated at 50 lumens, it appears to be at least as bright as a p60 to me, and ...
I think McGizmo measured it around 80 lumens :grin2:

there is also the 2 stage swich- press for ...
the A2 features the "futuristic" [:crackup:] 5 stage tailcap

  1. complete lockout
  2. LED momentary
  3. LED/Xenon momentary
  4. LED on, Xenon momentary
  5. LED/Xenon on
all handled by how far you decide to screw the tailcap down, no programming, no mode hopping.

For an unenlightened folk [or muggles] the E1e is bright for its size, but we are well aware of what a flashlight can do nowadays and as a result we have severely lost [or losing] perspective of things...
 
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I love the A2, but I would suggest an E1e also since its pretty much my favorite production light, and much better for EDC. I think I currently have about 5-6 in various configurations. Right now my EDC is this:



with the LF EO-E1R bulb. I switch it with a Koala E-MT with a nice warm rebel if I need more runtime.

The A2 can be a killer incan as well, but it needs a bit of help just like the E1e. My best mod to the A2 is replacing the LEDs with Nicha GS's and dabbing glow powder epoxy on the back of the emitters.
 
My E1E is a shelf light.

Even if I could use a light that size/output, I will grab an E-Series light with the Fivemega 18500 body.
 
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