Raoul_Duke
Enlightened
So there I am making a grab for my E2D, running a H1499 from litho, in a Five Mega E2e Socket...( 4th run) So I could change the H1499 out with a Five Mega 1794, after reading the group buy thread for more Five Mega bulbs, I had spare 1749's already, but never tried them yet.....&
( ~ Ok thats a Lie, the photos are post mod...as you can see the judco boot in the E2D tail, and the photo's are poor quality, but stick with me. cause its worth it 😛 ~ )
I try to light it up, and :thinking:....I find an incredibly hard, stiff switch that won't click on. No Light 😱
Now I had been carrying it, in a combat style pockets half way down my thigh the day before, flapping about as I walked, so maybe it had a bit of a rough day? and got a few knocks :shrug:
This is my oldest light, since finding CPF anyways, that has run a bunch of different setups in it over the years, from Stirons to TL3's to Cut down Surefire P-91's...,The latest setup with the IMR123's and H1499; I suppose has been pushing my luck some; .......Infact a few weeks before I had noticed the tailswitch spring was all retracted and short and heat coloured, and I had to re-strech the spring, but I put this down to a short on the bezel end whilst charging in the body with the head off.... like this.
I thought to myself 'I just can't have it give up on me', So I searched for switch fix threads ( I have read E2e/d tailcaps are not failure proof, a fair bit here on CPF...but never bothered much as my switch has held up well. 🙄 )
At first I had WD40'd the hell out of it over night ( as suggested in other threads,) and tried to switch it alot; But my guess was it was broken/ melted internaly...an I coulden't find to much on fixing them...
So I decided to break it a bit more & I pulled away at the switch with pliers/ pocket knives etc...and this is what I got out with moderate force...
So then having been satisfied with destroying my switch, I wondered what I could put in it....I asked a few modders suggestions, or if they could fix it for me, and they all told me to stay on the safe side and not run E2e switched hard ( less than ~ 1.5A ), and E2e/d switches arn't designed for high currents etc....Nonsence I thought, so I looked through my modding box, and settled on a judco 14V 10Amp switch...as its one of the only ones I have 😗
So Below is a photo after I had put a punch on the rubber boot, and smashing hard with a hammer, to knock out the rest of the bits .....
& a few shots of the switch internals, and the new cut down to size judco.
To fit in the tail switch housing.....mainly trimmed to size with blue saw blade, but the penknife, etc helped. Its not pretty, but neither is the light, or me
(Ignore the unpopped popcorn kernal...It was a long night, & I got hungry......
)
So After using some bits from the original switch...some electrical tape, and a bit more fiddling, I got it to sit tight in the tailcap...and Judco switches even come with a rubber boot to screw onto the threads on the pushbutton stem...Bonus! 😀
Sorry I never got more pics of the install, ( taken with my phone,) but one wire was run underneath the switch body, through a black shaft I took from the gutts of the old switch/ stuck that to the bottom of the switch housing, to make battery contact, and the other wire runs down outside of the shaft to make contact with the flashlight body,
So After a quick charge :tired:
I gave it a quick blast
Verses a WA-1185 in fiveMega D26, socket and 3 x IMR123's, in a Falcata ( Very easy, nice, mod to do in a falcata BTW)
So there we have it :devil: My Balrog Bodied E2D on 2 x IMR123, FME2e socket, and 1794 lamps, and Judco'd switch is a beast ....... punching into WA1185 territory :nana:
There was a small gap between the head, and body...so I put in a GITD o-ring...( the gap is a lot smaller now as I have filed a tiny bit of the glass from the bottom of the envelope, and also put a few spacers in the head.
The E2D ( This one with a Balrog body ( I'm glad Balrog made these as I wanted no "defender" text or pocket clip on the host) It's my favorite 'in the hand' light.
And here with reduced gap ( well screwed shut actualy) but not perfect.
In the end though I managed to get it focussed right in the end, but it does have to be unscrewed a little with a larger black o ring than that of the pic, that looks much better as it follows the lines of the host better.
There, all better...Well even brighter and better than before....apart from reverse clicky, but I hear there are forward clicky Judco's so thats next on the list...:devil:
Even though I am no good at ( Tidy/ neat ) modding, and my methods are rough, to say the least...I have a working light, and my rough mod matches my rough old EDC 😀
I'm glad to keep this light going strong...I dont think I could get brighter in a 2 x 123 sized host....? Could I.......?
( ~ Ok thats a Lie, the photos are post mod...as you can see the judco boot in the E2D tail, and the photo's are poor quality, but stick with me. cause its worth it 😛 ~ )
I try to light it up, and :thinking:....I find an incredibly hard, stiff switch that won't click on. No Light 😱
Now I had been carrying it, in a combat style pockets half way down my thigh the day before, flapping about as I walked, so maybe it had a bit of a rough day? and got a few knocks :shrug:
This is my oldest light, since finding CPF anyways, that has run a bunch of different setups in it over the years, from Stirons to TL3's to Cut down Surefire P-91's...,The latest setup with the IMR123's and H1499; I suppose has been pushing my luck some; .......Infact a few weeks before I had noticed the tailswitch spring was all retracted and short and heat coloured, and I had to re-strech the spring, but I put this down to a short on the bezel end whilst charging in the body with the head off.... like this.
I thought to myself 'I just can't have it give up on me', So I searched for switch fix threads ( I have read E2e/d tailcaps are not failure proof, a fair bit here on CPF...but never bothered much as my switch has held up well. 🙄 )
At first I had WD40'd the hell out of it over night ( as suggested in other threads,) and tried to switch it alot; But my guess was it was broken/ melted internaly...an I coulden't find to much on fixing them...
So I decided to break it a bit more & I pulled away at the switch with pliers/ pocket knives etc...and this is what I got out with moderate force...
So then having been satisfied with destroying my switch, I wondered what I could put in it....I asked a few modders suggestions, or if they could fix it for me, and they all told me to stay on the safe side and not run E2e switched hard ( less than ~ 1.5A ), and E2e/d switches arn't designed for high currents etc....Nonsence I thought, so I looked through my modding box, and settled on a judco 14V 10Amp switch...as its one of the only ones I have 😗
So Below is a photo after I had put a punch on the rubber boot, and smashing hard with a hammer, to knock out the rest of the bits .....
& a few shots of the switch internals, and the new cut down to size judco.To fit in the tail switch housing.....mainly trimmed to size with blue saw blade, but the penknife, etc helped. Its not pretty, but neither is the light, or me
(Ignore the unpopped popcorn kernal...It was a long night, & I got hungry......
)
So After using some bits from the original switch...some electrical tape, and a bit more fiddling, I got it to sit tight in the tailcap...and Judco switches even come with a rubber boot to screw onto the threads on the pushbutton stem...Bonus! 😀
Sorry I never got more pics of the install, ( taken with my phone,) but one wire was run underneath the switch body, through a black shaft I took from the gutts of the old switch/ stuck that to the bottom of the switch housing, to make battery contact, and the other wire runs down outside of the shaft to make contact with the flashlight body,
So After a quick charge :tired:
I gave it a quick blast
Verses a WA-1185 in fiveMega D26, socket and 3 x IMR123's, in a Falcata ( Very easy, nice, mod to do in a falcata BTW)
So there we have it :devil: My Balrog Bodied E2D on 2 x IMR123, FME2e socket, and 1794 lamps, and Judco'd switch is a beast ....... punching into WA1185 territory :nana:
There was a small gap between the head, and body...so I put in a GITD o-ring...( the gap is a lot smaller now as I have filed a tiny bit of the glass from the bottom of the envelope, and also put a few spacers in the head.
The E2D ( This one with a Balrog body ( I'm glad Balrog made these as I wanted no "defender" text or pocket clip on the host) It's my favorite 'in the hand' light.
And here with reduced gap ( well screwed shut actualy) but not perfect.
In the end though I managed to get it focussed right in the end, but it does have to be unscrewed a little with a larger black o ring than that of the pic, that looks much better as it follows the lines of the host better.
There, all better...Well even brighter and better than before....apart from reverse clicky, but I hear there are forward clicky Judco's so thats next on the list...:devil:
Even though I am no good at ( Tidy/ neat ) modding, and my methods are rough, to say the least...I have a working light, and my rough mod matches my rough old EDC 😀
I'm glad to keep this light going strong...I dont think I could get brighter in a 2 x 123 sized host....? Could I.......?
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