E2e + KL1 or A2 ???

x-ray

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 1, 2002
Messages
1,941
Location
London
Should I get an E2e and KL1 or wait for the A2 to be released ?

Anyone got any advice (pros & cons) on these choices ?

And before anyone jumps in and says "get both" I would love to, but cant afford both
smile.gif
 
As we don't have any idea how much the A2 will cost it would be hard to give advise on this? If the A2 is under $120 I would say get it, but who knows? Also I would think the A2 with only three leds would not be as bright as the KL1 so that is another issue. However having a low light long runtime or high output short run time at your finger tips is very attractive to me.
 
The A2 LEDs will not be as bright as the KL-1. But the 60 lumen blub in the A2 will be fully regulated, like the KL-1.

My advise would be to get the E2 (E2e if you want to pay more & have a clip) & KL-1. If you change your mind once the A2 is released, then you can sell the E2 & KL-1 and buy the A2.

That's what I would do.
wink.gif
 
To paraphase Darrel--my gosh, you're a CPF member, get both <smile>.

I've reserved my KL1 for my E2e. I like the idea of it being bright and reliable.

I also think the A2 is a unique light--fully regulated incandescent is very cool.

In many respects, they're two different animals.

By the way, what color A2 LEDs will you all be getting? I think I'll get the white.

Cheers,

Richard
 
Originally posted by Size15s:
Get both!
(E2e+KL1 while you way for the A2)

Al
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Q. from a NON-expert on Surefire:
Is it possible to order from SF, the E2 body as a part (to go with the purchase of the KL1?

-I'm really up to my eyeballs with the number of incandescent flashlights I have already.
icon15.gif
(including an E1 SF).
TIA
 
Originally posted by vcal:
Q. from a NON-expert on Surefire:
Is it possible to order from SF, the E2 body as a part (to go with the purchase of the KL1?

-I'm really up to my eyeballs with the number of incandescent flashlights I have already.
icon15.gif
(including an E1 SF).
TIA
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Yes, you can get them directly from surefire, be sure to get o-rings too & a clip if you get an E2e body.
 
The problem being that it is more expensive to buy the parts vs. the entire flashlight. Tossing the incandescent head is easy enough... You may even be able to sell it, who knows.

If anybody can find the parts minus the head cheaper then the whole flashlight, I'm all ears.
 
Vcal

IMHO, with the KL1, you will not have any need for the 25 lumen MN02.

The KL1 is very close to 20 lumens, and runs near 5 hours.
 
Mr Ted Bear,

I disagree that the KL1 makes the MN02 obsolete.

As things stand right now, LED technology is no where near as bright as incandescant lights and even the best LED doesn't have the throw. Isn't everyone trying to cram as many LEDs into a bezel as they can? It's the only way to produce comparable light. So far, I don't believe that you can get a pure white LED. Instead, it's called white because it gives true color rendition but it's not white: it's something with a tint.

The MN02 produces useable, white light from at least 30-40 feet away and even longer it you want general illumination. LEDs simply can't do that. Without putting words in his mouth, I think Craig said that the E2 blew away the LEDs.

What that said, some day, and I don't think that it's too far away, LEDs will be a suitable replacement incorporating all those technologies that make incandescants so nice but I also think that that regulation of incandescants will make them even more attractive.

To answer the question, I'd go with the E2e setup. X-ray can always switch bezel assemblies if he wants. I'm not sure that the A2 is, for me, a useful light. I like it for being a launch platform for future lights but this hybrid light simply doesn't appeal to me. Same reason why I don't really want a 10X either.
 
I'm not really following the "white light" business. There is no such thing as "true white light." Not even from Surefire. Surefires produce incandescent light that is less yellow than many others, but it is quite far from "white." Compare the beam of an E2 to a 50W Solex MR16 halogen bulb (CRI of 98) and you'll soon see how UNwhite most incandescents really are. We've been calling yellow incandescent light "white" for a hundred years. We're used to it. We're comfortable with it. But it isn't white. To most people, a yellowish light seems more white than the blueish light of "white" LEDs, because the LED light is still foriegn. Personally, I'm quite fond of the blueish LED light.

And actually, white LEDS have pretty poor CRI right now. They're called white because that's what they're trying to achieve (CMG's Reactor claims not withstanding). White LEDs are blue LEDs with a phosphor coating.

If distance is your game, then incandescents rule for now. No question. But if you want to work on something in the near field, the KL1 will be a far better choice than an MN02 or MN03 with beamshaper. The only reason I'd get an MN02 is if I didn't want to see as far, and wanted to save batteries. Personally, I'd rather achieve those goals with the light of a KL1.

Of course this particular discussion is a bit off topic for this thread...
 
OK, I'll give you the white light thing but I still think x-ray would be better off with the E2. See how I'm staying on topic before I stray?

But I'm not following the "up close" argument. Exactly why is the LED preferred for near field work? It seems to me that once you have the KL1 you've maxed out your light options. With the E2e we can go with LED, MN02, MN03, Beamshaper and different filters. With the LED, it's like only having one color in your crayon box.

I like the LED for what it is trying to become and for being bulletproof but I still think that on balance, x-ray is best served with the E2. And I'm back on topic...
 
I have bought several types of LED lights:
Luxeon Star (3 with a KL1 on order)
Streamlight 4AA LED (with several on order)
Streamlight Septor Headlamps (3)
PT Aurora headlamp
Arc AAA LE (5)

Most of these have a blue tint. I think my Arc sLS is a bit less blue (more green) than the Lambda Illuminator and Lambda Ill Pill.

I have the KL1 on order because it's twice the output of the Arc sLS and has a pyrex lens which is scratch resistant (unlike the sLS which is plastic and non-replaceable.)

Tonight we were walking to our car and my wife got out her MiniMag with Nexstar lamp and reasonably fresh batteries--she didn't pay attention to focus. The Arc sLS BLEW AWAY the minimag.

Yes my E2e with MN01 is brighter by far than the sLS and has as smooth or smoother beam.

I prefer LED lights (I generally grab my Lambda Illuminator for this) for looking inside equipment. Although the LS CRI may be low, I find the colors are more vivid and clearer than the yellower light of an incandescent.

Unless you need the reach (and sometimes you do which is why I have an E2e in my pocket all the time), I find the LEDs more reliable (less likely to not work when you need them), the LSs are bright enough (Lambda Ill, Arc sLS, Ill Pill) and the KL1 looks like double the brightness (and maintains it) of the Arc sLS, AND they are far more economical.

I'm trying to switch all of my lighting over to LEDs unless I need the reach. I'm populating the general grab flashlights with Streamlight 4AA LEDs...bright enough, long enough run time for many things. Where I want to "reach out and touch someone" I'm populating those locations with Brinkmann LX (more oomph than an E2e--by a fair amount). Then I have a UKE SL6 to really reach out.

I prefer LEDs for many things. I hope that's clear. I hope you understand the reasons.

Good night!

Richard
 
Originally posted by darell:
The problem being that it is more expensive to buy the parts vs. the entire flashlight. Tossing the incandescent head is easy enough... You may even be able to sell it, who knows.

If anybody can find the parts minus the head cheaper then the whole flashlight, I'm all ears.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">The E2e body is about $28.95. O-rings are about $2 or you can just transfer them from the E1e. I don't know how much a clip costs, but that can be transfered too.

My theory is that if you already own an E1e and invest about $30 you can convert it to an E2e and back again by stripping your E1e down. You don't get the LA but if your buying the KL-1, you won't need one anyway.
wink.gif


It does cost more if you buy everything, but if all you want is the body then that's all you need to buy.
smile.gif
 
Originally posted by Sean:
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">The E2e body is about $28.95. O-rings are about $2 or you can just transfer them from the E1e. I don't know how much a clip costs, but that can be transfered too.
My theory is that if you already own an E1e and invest about $30 you can convert it to an E2e and back again by stripping your E1e down. You don't get the LA but if your buying the KL-1, you won't need one anyway.
wink.gif

It does cost more if you buy everything, but if all you want is the body then that's all you need to buy.
smile.gif
[/qb][/QUOTE]

Thanks for that post, Sean. -There's some useful info!
cool.gif
 
... if you already own an E1e and invest about $30 you can convert it to an E2e and back again by stripping your E1e down.[/QB]
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">I assume it will be the same for people who already has a E2e, they can buy a E1e body only and convert them back and forth?

I hope the E1e body is cheaper than a E2e body and it should
confused.gif
.

Ron
 
Originally posted by RY:
...I hope the E1e body is cheaper than a E2e body and it should...
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Although the E1e body is smaller than the E2e body, you have to note that even if it does use less material (aluminum). All the other manufacturing steps are identical. So cost wouldn't necessarily be less.

YC
 
Top