E2E tail cap mod ????

daveritchieaz

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i have a old e2e with rivet clip and divots on the tube and tail i think its a ver 4 ... is it possible to insert a clicky button in to this tail cap ?????
 

akula88

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I actually had a similar question with the OP, I hope it's ok to just piggy-back my question in his thread.

My Z52 has a hex screw, though. I also have the twisty McGizmo Aleph Tailcap (Trim variant).


With the number of threads that I've read, I'm still confused on which part(s) / upgrade that I need to buy and where?

Is the Lumens Factory E-Series Modified McClicky Switch compatible as a clicky replacement for both?
 

euroken

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I actually had a similar question with the OP, I hope it's ok to just piggy-back my question in his thread.

My Z52 has a hex screw, though. I also have the twisty McGizmo Aleph Tailcap (Trim variant).


With the number of threads that I've read, I'm still confused on which part(s) / upgrade that I need to buy and where?

Is the Lumens Factory E-Series Modified McClicky Switch compatible as a clicky replacement for both?

Hey akula88 and daveritchieaz,

First, please reference this page for your information:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...st-of-Surefire-s-Tailcap-Switches-with-IMAGES

You'll be able to see Surefire tail cap variations.

If you have Z52, Z53, and/or Z54, you can simply take the guts of the tailcap out and screw in a McClicky without any modification. If you have Z57, or Z61, you'll need to remove the retaining ring to remove the tailcap guts and will need to install a 'modified' McClicky that has some of the threads trimmed back to fit. These modified versions are available at different vendors, such as Oveready and Lumens Factory:

https://www.oveready.com/flashlight/torchlab-mcclicky-self-installation-clicky-for-z57-z61-e/

https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/product.php?&cid=3&page=2

The Lumens Factory E-series tail cap available is a direct replacement to Z52/Z53/Z54 with McClicky installed instead of the twisty/lockout guts.

Hope this helps.
 

akula88

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Thanks again, Ken.

I actually pm'd [email protected], and he took care of my requirements, plus he had been patient in answering me with the intricacies of their ordering system.
Indeed the Z52-Nat is still out of stock until next month. Instead, I decided to order components to swap out the twisty circuit with clicky ones. :)

All I need is to wait out for about a couple of weeks or more for them to arrive at my end. :whistle:
 

euroken

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Thanks again, Ken.

I actually pm'd [email protected], and he took care of my requirements, plus he had been patient in answering me with the intricacies of their ordering system.
Indeed the Z52-Nat is still out of stock until next month. Instead, I decided to order components to swap out the twisty circuit with clicky ones. :)

All I need is to wait out for about a couple of weeks or more for them to arrive at my end. :whistle:

Awesome! Good luck! My recent order took like 6 days. So hopefully, it will get to you quicker!
 

yazkaz

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Thanks again, Ken.

I actually pm'd [email protected], and he took care of my requirements, plus he had been patient in answering me with the intricacies of their ordering system.
Indeed the Z52-Nat is still out of stock until next month. Instead, I decided to order components to swap out the twisty circuit with clicky ones. :)

All I need is to wait out for about a couple of weeks or more for them to arrive at my end. :whistle:
I have two LF Z52 clones (earlier batch HA nat) and can let you have one if you're interested. PM me follow-up.

As for modding the original Z52, some special care needs to be taken. For example, after unscrewing the hex screw, the aluminum block would not automatically fall out. That's because some adhesive was used to blue the block's rear to the Delrin retainer ring inside. Even if you use pair of nose pliers (preferably with taped tips) you may not be able to pull the block out, unless after debonder has been applied into the screw hole and letting the entire tailcap chassis sit for half a night or so. Then you'll be able to pull out the aluminum block with little effort.
 

yazkaz

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Why not just get a E2E clicky tailcap.
Why purchase another tailcap if the Z52 can be repurposed into a proper clicky?
Besides the Z52 host is much more valuable than the Z57/61 etc.
 

ampdude

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Why purchase another tailcap if the Z52 can be repurposed into a proper clicky?
Besides the Z52 host is much more valuable than the Z57/61 etc.

Yes, in the original state the Z52 came in. Provided it is an actual Z52 and not a clone. It's much easier to get a clicky switch nowadays than find an actual Z52 and then make it into a clicky. It's like refinishing a valuable collectable that doesn't need it, and destroying the value of it at the same time. If you're going to turn a Z52 clone into a clicky buying the mcclicky switch and doing the conversion that only make sense if you just like the look better than the Z57.
 
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yazkaz

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If you're going to turn a Z52 clone into a clicky buying the mcclicky switch and doing the conversion that only make sense if you just like the look better than the Z57.
In this case I'd rather stick with the Z57 in stock or modded (shaved McClicky) form. Why? Because with the Z52 McC mod you cannot screw in the tailcap completely and would yield a gap between the body and tail. That however is not the case with the Z57 host.
 

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