Eagletac G25C2-II (XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, VIDEO, BEAMSHOTS+

NavyDavy

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I like everthing about this light. Now I need to find a basket weave holster for that allows me to carry it bezel down.

Any suggestions?
 

Mr. Tone

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I like everthing about this light. Now I need to find a basket weave holster for that allows me to carry it bezel down.

Any suggestions?

I can't think of any bezel down in basketweave. If I see something I will reply back with it. Are you keeping the clip and rubber grip ring on or did you take them off? That makes a big difference on holster selection.
 

NavyDavy

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I can't think of any bezel down in basketweave. If I see something I will reply back with it. Are you keeping the clip and rubber grip ring on or did you take them off? That makes a big difference on holster selection.
Keeping the ring, losing the clip.
 

NavyDavy

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I just checked something for you. The G25C2 MKII will fit bezel down in a MKIV pepper spray holster. I have a Bianchi Accumold one and it fits either way in it. These are also available in basketweave. http://bianchi-intl.com/model-7907-accumold-elite-mace-oc-spray-holder
Thank you for checking. It is critical that the flash light comes out of the holster smooth and fast. Again reholstering needs to be smooth, can't bind or catch going back in the holder. I've also asked for quotes from a couple of online custom leather duty gear makers for a custom made holder.
 

Mr. Tone

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Thank you for checking. It is critical that the flash light comes out of the holster smooth and fast. Again reholstering needs to be smooth, can't bind or catch going back in the holder. I've also asked for quotes from a couple of online custom leather duty gear makers for a custom made holder.

Bezel up comes out fast but not bezel down. I carried my Eagletac G25C2 MKII in the MKIV Accumold holster for a while bezel up and that works well. I have one of the 5.11 ATAC flashlight holsters laying around that I could check for you but that is a black polymer and basketweave is not an option that I know of.
 

oKtosiTe

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Something I've wondered about this light is whether filters can be combined with the diffuser in any way. Has anyone tried this?
 

selfbuilt

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Something I've wondered about this light is whether filters can be combined with the diffuser in any way. Has anyone tried this?
Typically, you won't be able to screw down the retaining ring if you try to put both the diffuser and colored filter inside the head assembly. It is really one or the other.
 

oKtosiTe

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Typically, you won't be able to screw down the retaining ring if you try to put both the diffuser and colored filter inside the head assembly. It is really one or the other.
That's a bit of a shame, but good to know. Thanks once again.
 

selfbuilt

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True, although that's a bit final. The point would be to easily change between diffused and non-diffused.
I'm also looking into diffusing the SRT7.
There are removable diffuser films (although these don't typically work as well as the more permanent type). Glad press-n-seal comes to mind, for ex.

For the SRT7, the standard Olight M22 diffuser is a perfect fit - nice and snug. Of course, it's not a flip diffuser. You could build your own flip-top diffuser using the Butler Creek Blizzard flip-open scope cover (size 5 - 1.6-1.69 inch, 40.64-42.92mm), as described in my Nitecore EA4 thread. The SRT7 is the same opening as the EA4, and I can confirm that flip-top scope cover works fine. :wave:
 

oKtosiTe

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There are removable diffuser films (although these don't typically work as well as the more permanent type). Glad press-n-seal comes to mind, for ex.

For the SRT7, the standard Olight M22 diffuser is a perfect fit - nice and snug. Of course, it's not a flip diffuser. You could build your own flip-top diffuser using the Butler Creek Blizzard flip-open scope cover (size 5 - 1.6-1.69 inch, 40.64-42.92mm), as described in my Nitecore EA4 thread. The SRT7 is the same opening as the EA4, and I can confirm that flip-top scope cover works fine. :wave:
That (the Butler Creek Blizzard solution) was exactly my plan. I just love the implementation of the flip-top diffuser on the G25C2, but feel the SRT7 could help me somewhat with my color-blindness (e.g.: point a red light at a red and a green pen, and only the red one will light up). Right now money is still a restricting factor, but I can't help constantly scouting for what would be the perfect EDC for me. Both those lights meet most of my requirements (e.g.: 800+ lumens, fairly throwy, diffusible) , but the SRT7 right now looks a bit more attractive due to it's multi colored LEDs, reversible pocket clip and variable output.
As always, thank you for your time and your hugely helpful insights.
 
Last edited:

selfbuilt

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That (the Butler Creek Blizzard solution) was exactly my plan. I just love the implementation of the flip-top diffuser on the G25C2, but feel the SRT7 could help me somewhat with my color-blindness (e.g.: point a red light at a red and a green pen, and only the red one will light up). Right now money is still a restricting factor, but I can't help constantly scouting for what would be the perfect EDC for me. Both those lights meet most of my requirements (e.g.: 800+ lumens, fairly throwy, diffusible) , but the SRT7 right now looks a bit more attractive due to it's multi colored LEDs, reversible pocket clip and variable output. As always, thank you for your time and your hugely helpful insights.
Happy to help. One comment I would make is that SRT7 is using standard 5mm tri-colored LEDs, which are relatively low output. You might want to also consider the Nitecore Chaemeleon series, as these have at least one proper dedicated colored XP-E (in addition to the 5mm tri-colored ones).

Also, if going the Blizzard Creek scope cover route on the SRT7, note that you will slightly affect output (due to the rim of the cover, which partially blocks some of the emitters on the periphery. It's not much though - and well worth it in my books to smooth out the less-than-attractive overlapping 5mm beam patterns. I'll post this comment over in my SRT7 review thread as well. :whistle:
 

oKtosiTe

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Happy to help. One comment I would make is that SRT7 is using standard 5mm tri-colored LEDs, which are relatively low output. You might want to also consider the Nitecore Chaemeleon series, as these have at least one proper dedicated colored XP-E (in addition to the 5mm tri-colored ones).

Also, if going the Blizzard Creek scope cover route on the SRT7, note that you will slightly affect output (due to the rim of the cover, which partially blocks some of the emitters on the periphery. It's not much though - and well worth it in my books to smooth out the less-than-attractive overlapping 5mm beam patterns. I'll post this comment over in my SRT7 review thread as well. :whistle:

In order not to cross-post, I'll just link to my reply in said other thread. Hope that's OK. If not, just send me a PM and this post will disappear.:poof::D
 

Danimalpharm

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Great review. I now need one. Have you done any testing with the 2 or 3 x 18650 configuration? Would this give the same output as 1x18650, or simply longer run times? If long run-times was the goal and I had two fully charged 18650s, would it be best to run one at a time, or two together? I'm not sure if this question pertains to the G25C2-II specifically, or for all lights than can accept 1-2 batteries. I ask because I'm considering picking this one up with the kit that includes the extenders. I'm wondering if running two batteries gains anything but a longer grip.
 

selfbuilt

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Great review. I now need one. Have you done any testing with the 2 or 3 x 18650 configuration? Would this give the same output as 1x18650, or simply longer run times? .
It simply adds more runtime. As you'll see in the review, there was no difference between 1x18650 and 2xRCR. 2x18650 is the same voltage as 2xRCR.
 

bluemax_1

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Great review. I now need one. Have you done any testing with the 2 or 3 x 18650 configuration? Would this give the same output as 1x18650, or simply longer run times? If long run-times was the goal and I had two fully charged 18650s, would it be best to run one at a time, or two together? I'm not sure if this question pertains to the G25C2-II specifically, or for all lights than can accept 1-2 batteries. I ask because I'm considering picking this one up with the kit that includes the extenders. I'm wondering if running two batteries gains anything but a longer grip.
As the batteries run more efficiently at lower draw rates. If using 2 batteries doesn't change the output, then running the light with 2 batteries means a lower draw from each battery, which would mean better runtime at the higher brightness levels than running 1 battery at a time.


Max
 

A-Rob

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Bad Anodizing?

Does anyone else have a problem with the finish on this light? I got it about 6 months ago, and a small spot of anodizing was chipped off on one of the cooling fins. It was small and it didn't bother me. Now, there are spots all over it, especially on the cooling fin edges. It is either in the holster (on my nightstand) or laying on an end table. I don't carry it in my pockets, work with it and it hasn't been abused or dropped. About the only thing I do with it is light up my dogs in the yard every night, from my porch, but it looks like it has been dragged through hell and back.

I sent a message to EagleTac through their website and got no response at all. I'm not exactly OCD about my tools, but if they're going to be marked up, there should be a reason. Did I get a fluke or is this common? FWIW, I've got a Zebralight headlamp that has been with me under cars, in the woods, dropped etc. and it looks brand new. Same with my few others (Sunwayman, Fenix, Thrunite). If this is uncommon, I would consider getting more ET lights, because its build quality, etc. is impressive.
 

kj2

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Re: Bad Anodizing?

Does anyone else have a problem with the finish on this light? I got it about 6 months ago, and a small spot of anodizing was chipped off on one of the cooling fins. It was small and it didn't bother me. Now, there are spots all over it, especially on the cooling fin edges. It is either in the holster (on my nightstand) or laying on an end table. I don't carry it in my pockets, work with it and it hasn't been abused or dropped. About the only thing I do with it is light up my dogs in the yard every night, from my porch, but it looks like it has been dragged through hell and back.

I sent a message to EagleTac through their website and got no response at all. I'm not exactly OCD about my tools, but if they're going to be marked up, there should be a reason. Did I get a fluke or is this common? FWIW, I've got a Zebralight headlamp that has been with me under cars, in the woods, dropped etc. and it looks brand new. Same with my few others (Sunwayman, Fenix, Thrunite). If this is uncommon, I would consider getting more ET lights, because its build quality, etc. is impressive.

The G25C2 I ordered had also coating chips on it. Returned it mainly because of that. The GX25A3 I've also has some spots. What I see overall, Eagletac should do a better job on the coating.
 
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