Eagletac G25C2-II (XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, VIDEO, BEAMSHOTS+

selfbuilt

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Re: Bad Anodizing?

What's the stock amps on turbo? Is measuring at the tail accurate?
In my view, no.

I suppose tailcap measures could be "consitent", at least for lights with similar current draws (i.e., in relative terms, for a narrow range). But the resistance in the DMM and leads makes accurate measures really challenging at high current draws. I know from my experience that my mainstream DMM isn't up to the task (i.e., I can detect the impact on output level when doing tailcap draws on most Turbo modes). I suppose a really high-end DMM could do it, but really, you need a power supply to directly interrogate the circuit in the head.
 

turkeylord

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Aug 21, 2012
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Re: Bad Anodizing?

When the light is twisted past "low" to "off" - is there any parasitic drain? Is the head loose at that point or will it stay on the light fine? I've got one on the way from vinh. :)

Great review, thanks :D
 

selfbuilt

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Re: Bad Anodizing?

When the light is twisted past "low" to "off" - is there any parasitic drain? Is the head loose at that point or will it stay on the light fine? I've got one on the way from vinh. :)
I've just double-checked, and no, there is no standby drain when the head loosened to the point that the light shuts off. It is a full contact break.
 

Mr. Tone

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Jul 2, 2009
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Re: Bad Anodizing?

The G25C2 I ordered had also coating chips on it. Returned it mainly because of that. The GX25A3 I've also has some spots. What I see overall, Eagletac should do a better job on the coating.

That is too bad. I have many Eagletac lights, including two G25C2 MKII in neutral white, and none of my Eagletac lights have ever had coating chips. I suppose they could have a bad batch or something from time to time but I have a large sample group and all have been high quality performers and in finish, too.
 

bhonder

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Jan 26, 2013
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Re: Bad Anodizing?

Maybe I am dumb... :)

How do i mount the rubber tail stand. Any help will be appreciated.
 

turkeylord

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Aug 21, 2012
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Re: Bad Anodizing?

Maybe I am dumb... :)

How do i mount the rubber tail stand. Any help will be appreciated.
Remove the lanyard attachment by prying it apart at the split with a fingernail, then the tail stand cap just stretches on. :)
 

bladesmith3

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May 24, 2012
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colorado springs
Re: Bad Anodizing?

does anyone know how hot to the touch this light gets on turbo? how long can it be comfortably held in your hand without external cooling?
 

turkeylord

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Aug 21, 2012
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Re: Bad Anodizing?

Even my boosted light stays a reasonable temp - I don't think it's an issue.
 

BringerOfLight

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May 23, 2011
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The G25C2-II (with XM-L2 U2) is a definite output upgrade from my G25C2 (with XM-L T5/T6). This is due to more than just an emitter output bin upgrade – it would appear that Eagletac is driving these Mark II series lights higher than my original G25C2.
Eagletac actually tells you the maximum drive current. Just look at the circuit name in the specifications. Early versions of the G25C2-II had the "C2100 Extreme" (2.1A max LED current). The current version has the "C3300 Extreme4" (3.3A max LED current).

The TX25L2 is using the "C3300 ST".
 

cejnr

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Excellent review. This helped me decide on the G25C2-II for my first tactical light. I must say, IT'S AWESOME!! I ordered mine in the neutral white tint as I use it in forest environments a lot and the throw is incredible as well as the flood I get from it.
Just what I was looking for in a flashlight :twothumbs
 

Mr. Tone

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Excellent review. This helped me decide on the G25C2-II for my first tactical light. I must say, IT'S AWESOME!! I ordered mine in the neutral white tint as I use it in forest environments a lot and the throw is incredible as well as the flood I get from it.
Just what I was looking for in a flashlight :twothumbs

Good to hear, I have two neutral white versions and they are great.
 

texbaz

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Sep 21, 2007
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Texas, Out yonder Way.
Eagletac actually tells you the maximum drive current. Just look at the circuit name in the specifications. Early versions of the G25C2-II had the "C2100 Extreme" (2.1A max LED current). The current version has the "C3300 Extreme4" (3.3A max LED current).

The TX25L2 is using the "C3300 ST".


Thanks, good info.
 

oKtosiTe

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Jan 7, 2012
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There is also a momentary tailcap strobe setting (off by default). To toggle this feature, tighten the head fully and click the light off/on 20 times rapidly at the switch.
I have to check, since I am having some trouble getting this to work (my thumb speed is not at fault, since am an avid gamer): do I have to...
  1. Click twenty times (i.e.: 10 on/off cycles)
  2. Click on & off twenty times (i.e.: 40 clicks)
  3. Go through 20 on/off cycles (i.e.: momentary should suffice)

Also, should I get some sort of confirmation flash?

EDIT: Both option 2 and 3 seem to work (so essentially 20 cycles), but only if I keep the button pressed a "21th";) time.
 
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oKtosiTe

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Does anyone know at what voltage the main LED starts flashing?
And I finally bought this light because of your review, selfbuilt. Thanks!

EDIT: Never mind, it is listed on their website: "When 18650 li-ion battery falls below 2.9V, the LED will flash once every 30 seconds to remind you that the battery is almost out (li-ion protection ic usually shut down the flashlight around 2.7V). Lowering output brightness will extend the runtime and disable the warning until battery voltage drops below 2.9V again.."
 
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