Eagletac GX25A3 (XM-L2 U2, 3xAA) Review: RUNTIMES, VIDEO, BEAMSHOTS and more!

D6859

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D6859, I think the logo might be printed randomly in terms of rotational location, so it probably varies from unit to unit.
What I mean is that the body of the light seems same as in selfbuilt's pictures. Those pairs of "holes" in the body are under the text "GX25A3" and the big "hole" under the text "Eagletac". What is different is that when screwing the head close the power button stops little left to the text "GX25A3" (instead of "Eagletac"). So when holding the light in my left hand as in one of selfbuilt's pictures I have two holes for my middle and ring fingers where there should be one big hole. But as I mentioned, this isn't a problem as I would carry the light in my left hand most of the time.

As for turn distance, my light goes from high (tight) to medium with just a slight loosening turn, but then needs about 120 degrees of turn to reach low. Are you saying that with yours the high to low is just a 30 degree turn? That sounds rather convenient.... or does that give you some problems finding and staying in medium when you want it?

Yes, 30-45 degrees from hi to low. I tried using the light wearing mittens. The grip was actually better, but still I often missed the med when trying to switch to it either having the hi mode flash or end up to low mode. I think i have to check the threads because the head feels stuck when switching from hi/tight to med. There's also a high scratchy sound when turning the light from hi to med. I thought it's one of the pins, but could it be a defect in threading? Maybe it needs lubricant? I can try to take video including the 30 degree turn and the sound when I get back home. But you're right it would be convenient once I get used to it. Also, staying in medium isn't problem because there's friction in the threading, just finding it is.

I can't imagine having trouble keeping the tailcap on. Sounds like perhaps you didn't have it on tight enough to start with. Make sure the tailcap is fully tight before you start... a fair bit tighter than the head will ever be.

I think this happened because the head is so thight and I was holding the tailcap with my littlefinger. Btw, it seems that the tailcap needs to be only a little untightened (not loose yet though, since that would result in turnoff) that the light starts flickering. I thought the tailcap was thight when I laid it on the table. The light started flickering, but twisting the already-tight tailcap fixed it.

Let us know how you make out with further use.

I will. Thank you for your reply and advice!
 

selfbuilt

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Hmm, presumably has something to do with the pins, given that level of variability from my sample. Of course, things may have changed as well - hard to know until we hear from others with recent samples.
 

Rexlion

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I think you may want to contact your dealer, or Eagletac directly, and describe this situation to them. The 'high scratchy sound' does not seem normal. Together with the short rotation and the unusual tightness needed to obtain high, I think you may have a manufacturing defect. It could get worse with time. That scratching sound is worrisome.
 

D6859

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I think I found the culprit. There's a little piece of solder (= tin?) on the outer contact ring. The head has already carved part of it away, but I think it makes the head get stuck. I contacted my dealer already and hope that they're changing the light. Here's a link to a picture (6,5 Mt):
http://thetravis.kapsi.fi/private/eagletac_gx25a3_en.png

Thank you for your advice. I return to post comments about the new light once (if) I receive it.
 

D6859

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I got a replacement light last week and I've been using it now visiting home. No defects nor scratcy sounds and the twist is about 120 degrees from hi to lo. I prefer the longer twist since it often suffices to turn light from lo to med if I need more light, so I don't accidentally lose all my night vision flashing the hi. I use the light with a plastic diffuser which I made (until I can order the Olight diffuser) and the lowest level is enough for walking in the dark. I only wish it had bigger power button when using it wearing gloves/mittens. Happy holidays!
 

Rexlion

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It's great to hear that they took care of you and that the replacement is working well.
 

cistallus

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Jan 19, 2010
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I just got this light - I generally like it. I noticed a couple of quirks I've not seen mentioned.

First, using Regular mode, with head untwisted so it comes on in low - when I click it on, there is an extremely brief brighter level before it is in low - it's just at the edge of my visual perception but is definitely there - I wouldn't quite call it a flash, it's probably not at max level but it's significantly brighter than the low level it settles into.

Second, I found an interesting mode - using the tailcap that has the switch - if I unscrew the tailcap slightly, and press the tailcap switch, I have a momentary moonlight mode. It won't click on but it gives momentary as long as I hold it. I estimate it at 1/2 to 1 lumen. However, sometimes I have to click it an extra time, first press doesn't turn on, click it again and it's on - in other words the first use especially after leaving it alone a while does not turn on, but second try does. This works with the tailcap unscrewed anywhere from just barely loosened (e.g. unscrewed 1/32 a turn) through about 1/3 of a turn loose. And it doesn't seem to matter which position the head is in, the moonlight level stays the same. I have only tried this in the Regular mode, with Eneloops.

Now a question: what is the light pattern when it hits its low-voltage detection? Its pamphlet/manual doesn't say.
 

selfbuilt

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I just got this light - I generally like it. I noticed a couple of quirks I've not seen mentioned....
Now a question: what is the light pattern when it hits its low-voltage detection? Its pamphlet/manual doesn't say.
Thanks for sharing. I can't say I recall the preflash on low on my sample, but that is certainly not uncommon on current-controlled lights (e.g., Fenix and Foursevens lights often experience this as well). And I don't have the tailswitch assembly, so can't confirm the "moonlight" on my sample. Sounds unusual, but if its reliable, that would be a bonus.

As for low voltage warning, it depends on the battery source. Check out my runtimes: the low-voltage "blips" in output occur at different points. For NiMH, they only happen when the output is very low (i.e. <10% initial output). But on Alkaline, the warning flash starts soon after the light falls out of regulation (i.e., >50% initial output).
 

Rick_R

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Apr 18, 2013
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I think I found the culprit. There's a little piece of solder (= tin?) on the outer contact ring. The head has already carved part of it away, but I think it makes the head get stuck. I contacted my dealer already and hope that they're changing the light. Here's a link to a picture (6,5 Mt):
http://thetravis.kapsi.fi/private/eagletac_gx25a3_en.png

Thank you for your advice. I return to post comments about the new light once (if) I receive it.

I had this same issue, but to lesser degree. Lubing the threads & working the head back and forth got everything working smooth. The threads on Eagletac's seem to be rougher than lets say the 5 Nitecore's that I have. Working the head back and forth & Cleaning a couple three times solves these issues. I also have it's big brother (SX25L3 MT-G2 Kit Ver.) & it was little rough too. The contacts at the head & body need to 'break-in a little' ('get-to-know each other') also. Use it, clean & lube 2-3 times, & it is smooth running soon.
 

Rick_R

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Apr 18, 2013
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Opps, it has a problem.
In the head there are 3 spring loaded brass pins that contact 2 of the 3 rings of the center section. The shortest of them that contacts the middle ring, was soldered in at an angle, leaning towards the center spring. Well this pin was just contacting the inner edge of this middle ring, lifting and tearing a very small piece away. This caused the light to only operate on high and medium. No other modes available (except Strobe, with the button switch).
This area was cleaned well, and "Deoxit-Red" applied (works well in the SX25L3 too).
So, it's going back for an 'exchange'. Check your's out, see where the wear marks are. If on or near the edge's on these contact area's, you may end-up with an issue.
I reeeaally like this light (and it's big brother "SX25L3"). So much so, that 2x EA4's that I have have been put into the "Emergency" box".
 
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Salter

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Apr 6, 2014
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I just got an eagletac GX25A3 for my birthday. the manual says to use 3AA or 14500. I put in the AA.I just watched a review of this light on U tube and the commentator said not to use AA Alkaline as they would damage the light. He said I should use nimh instead. Is this true?
 

selfbuilt

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I just got an eagletac GX25A3 for my birthday. the manual says to use 3AA or 14500. I put in the AA.I just watched a review of this light on U tube and the commentator said not to use AA Alkaline as they would damage the light. He said I should use nimh instead. Is this true?
The point is that all alkaline batteries have the potential to leak. The corrosive material that leaks out of the cells will destroy any electrical circuit it comes in direct contact with. Given how much people invest in their flashlights, it doesn't seem to make sense to risk destroying it to save a couple of dollars on a pack on NiMH (which will likely out-live the flashlight anyway, given how many times you can recharge). NiMH have different chemistry, and won't leak.

:welcome:
 

Salter

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Thanks, I have Nimh but they were not charged when I got this light. This is my first light of this kind and I do not want to ruin it. I have already made the switch to Nimh. Apparently the word got out about my birthday and my liking of flashlights ( I have lots of old style ones), another one is on its way to me. Looking forward to it.
 

beerwax

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Mar 12, 2011
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I got me a GX25A3. nice bit of kit.
the good - plenty, well built, comfy, bright. a superb light well done ETAC

could it be better - maybe - I have difficulty changing the batteries in the dark, and finding the switch in the dark.

cheers - bee
 

cistallus

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Jan 19, 2010
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Put on the other tailcap that comes with it, then you have a rear switch and can easily find it in the dark.
 

Animalmother

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Apr 7, 2011
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How do you get the 10% drop instead of the 25% drop after the stepdown?
Edit:
N/m, I overlooked it in the manual.
 
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CelticCross74

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After nearly a month with my new GX25A3 I have gotta say this little light is awesome! It runs forever on new Eneloop Pro's. Beats my EA41 on brightness.
 

leon2245

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Apr 4, 2008
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Interesting observation - and one that I share.

FYI, I had some contact with Eagletac after this review, where I expressed my concern about the potential long-term stability of the pins. They said they were working on improving the design, and I note that my SX25L3 (which I received subsequently) does seem more robust in that regard.

Over a year later now, does anyone know if they've since changed the gx25a3 to the thicker pin/spring design too lke the sx25L3?

Also, I've noticed in the past some eagletac lights have had a nichia 219 hcri option, they've never made any gx25a3's with those have they?
 

CelticCross74

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Several months of GX25A3 ownership later and this light is still one of the best LED light purchases I have ever made. Its compact size has it riding in my coat pocket most of the time. The sheer output from the 3 Eneloop Pro's still amazes me. I have had none of the issues that the other members have posted about. Mode switching is perfect. Threads perfect. Love the dual side switch/tailcap switch layout. I believe the GX25A3 to be the most sophisticated light in the 3/4xAA class and best for EDC. Still expensive though.
 

Rick_R

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I have this little guy also. Same set-up and it's big brother (SX25L3_MT-G2). These are fantastic lights. A little high on maitenance though, I clean with alcohol and lube/treat with Deoxit-Red.
Between this light and my other 2 x EA4's, the GX25A3 allways win's with it's weight, size, output, UI and quality.
 
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