EagleTac M2SC4...

I received the m2sc4 tonight. I don't have too much to compare it to. I did compare it to a Maglite 4D modified with the Terralux TLE-300M, the three LED upgrade purporting 500 lumen, running on alkalines. I had 4 CR123's in the Eagletac.

The center of the Eagletac is brighter and narrower at the highest setting. The spill on the m2Sc4 is also brighter, quite uniform in brightness.

I compared the middle setting, the 360 lumen setting. Now the Maglite's center spot looks brighter. The spill on the Eagletac is still brighter though.

There is a slight donut hole in the Eagletac visible at 40 yrds. Very slight, barely noticeable.

The lack of detents on the settings is a PIA, a really shortsighted omission on the part of the manufacturer.

The M2SC4 seems to be more of a useful light than my Olight M20 was, as there is more light spread over a wider area. However, the Eagletac has less of a "wow" factor, as the wider beam doesn't seem to impress as much as the tight beam of the Olight.

I am now wondering whether I might like the 3 Cree version Eagletac better.
 
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If you like throw, I feel safe to say that you would prefer the 3 Cree version 😀

Yep, I agree. I have to say I'm not happy with the UI. No detents? Goofy.

I might simply return it and get something smaller, maybe the Jetbeam RRT-2.

It's small, nice UI, seems to regulate pretty well with both CR123 and the 18650s, and I understand I can use the Olight M20's diffuser and other color filters if desired.
 
Got one of these recently as a birthday present from my better half.

Very happy with it. None of the quality control issues I've read about - only thing I could find was a slightly off centre emitter which doesn't affect the beam and doesn't bother me at all.

Brighter spill and better thrower than all my other lights (incl 2 x 18650 FM, with LF IMR9) even on the 360 lumen setting. It's my first MC-E light, very slight donut hole at mid range but not noticable when outside which is where I use it. Not really practical for indoor use (on low settings I'd rather carry something smaller indoors) but the diffuser works really well for tailstanding - lights a room so well you can't tell the difference between that and the main room lights. Balance is quite head heavy. Tint is neutral.

Have done the mod with a piece of credit card in the rotary switch to keep strobe out of the way and despite the lack of detents I find it easy to get to the level I need, and the run time on the lower setting is pretty impressive.

Tried the forward clicky switch which was easy to assemble but didn't like it so took it off again. I like the fact it will work on CR123, RCR123 (3V) or 18650.

I couldn't measure the quiescent current although I heard that it's around 0.7ma.

I liked it when I got it, and I still like it 2 weeks later. Not bad value for £100 compared to what else that will get you in the UK.

Cheers.
 
Yep, I agree. I have to say I'm not happy with the UI. No detents? Goofy.

I might simply return it and get something smaller, maybe the Jetbeam RRT-2.

It's small, nice UI, seems to regulate pretty well with both CR123 and the 18650s, and I understand I can use the Olight M20's diffuser and other color filters if desired.

I have to agree.
I'm still not very impressed by my Neutral M2XC4, and everyday I force myself not to sell it, as I will lose money and a light :shakehead
 
Interesting, reviewers haven't gotten theirs yet. I wonder if Craig or selfbuilt have received theirs. I guess that's a good thing for me since I've got two reviews to finish :thumbsup:
 
Heh, yesterday my M2S control ring went funky. The light is now stuck in turbo no matter where the ring is set, EXCEPT if the ring is set to turbo. So off through high, and strobe, are now turbo, and turbo is now off. And when it turns off, it fades out. I've tried different batteries. I've tried switching out the battery cassette from my M2. This is with the stock tailcap (I've won't give up the tailstand for the clicky).

Funny thing is, I like this better! I only use high and off, so the light is much easier to turn on, I don't have to worry about accidentally getting strobe, and the turbo marking makes it easy to shut off also. I'm worried about leakage current in this new 'off' mode, but I use the light frequently enough that I don't think it'll be a problem.

That said, maybe 4sevens was right about EagleTac quality of late. The other light I've got from them recently, the T20, works as designed but is total crap. Beam quality (either with the smooth or OP reflector) isn't even close to the T100, T10L, or even my Fenix TK11 R2.* Also, I hate waiting for the click to get light (is this called forward or reverse clicky?), and whoever came up with the tailswitch strobe toggle is an idiot. I'd send it back but I got it at the 4sevens firesale.

My advice? Wait for the 4sevens MC-E light, or for some SST-50 lights to come out, before buying any M2 light. Avoid the T20 like the plague.

< / end of rant >

-Carl

* Most disturbingly, I read 2 reviews of the T20 before purchasing, neither of them mentioned the poor beam quality and at least one said the beam was good! Obviously it's not! (My emitter is perfectly centered)
 
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Heh, yesterday my M2S control ring went funky. The light is now stuck in turbo no matter where the ring is set, EXCEPT if the ring is set to turbo. So off through high, and strobe, are now turbo, and turbo is now off. And when it turns off, it fades out.
hello clumma, can you try cleaning the control ring? take out the control ring and clean it bare with no lube in sight (on the flashlight and inside the ring), put it back without lubing and see if it restore to defaults?

I bought the T20C2 as it's the first neutral XR-E Q4 emitter flashlight I can get. It's now "safely" tuck away in my drawer... hoping in some near future ET will offer a T20C2 head with no strobe :poke:

Update: I just re-lube my unit's control ring with Krytox grease I got from Tekno_Cowboy, now the ring feels steady and smooth!!! The stiffness is gone. I'm liking it more now... :thumbsup:
 
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reviving an old thread.

just got a neutral white M2SC4. i absolutely LOVE the simplicity of the selector ring.

question, does this light have a parasitic drain?? if so, i might put the switch back on for those times when the light sits for a while.
 
M2C4 (without the switch) according to HKJ's measurement was consuming 720uA on standby. I don't know if there is any difference for M2SC4 but I would assume it also has a parasitic drain.
 
thanks man!

i wonder how bad it is.

maybe i should write eagletac about this. i just don't know if it's worth putting on the clicky because of it. i think probably not. most parasitic drains i know of are negligible.

the diffuser cap is completely awesome!

i love this light!

i had a TK40, but sold it to get this and i like this guy so much better.

i am very happy!
 
every device that uses an electronic switch has parasitic drain...

if it is a concern - either install the clicky switch, or loosen the body to disconnect the circuit when not in use? :thumbsup:

Tod
 
i know that about electronic switches, but i wasn't sure if the selector ring killed the circuit when off or just went into that 'monitor the switch and drain battery' mode.

i put the switch on. i actually like it on; it gives you the option of two different ways to turn it off, plus you can keep it on a specific level and go right back to it.

just clicking a switch sure beats having to "lock-out" a light.

i keep liking this light more and more.

:thumbsup:
 
IIRC, ET said the newer version of this light has a reduced drain.

i wonder if i got the new version.

...oh hey, lebox97; i just realized that i bought my light from you. thanks! that was some fast shipping from florida to missouri; ordered it wednesday night and got it saturday. 😎
 
um, so yeah, i got a chance to use the light at night and the beam has a pretty bad doughnut hole; and it is at every distance except for about 2 feet away. it's near and far, and it's very pronounced at far distances, too. It's pretty distracting and it seems to be worse at farther distances.

is this typical with eagletac mc-e lights? or neutral white eagletac mc-e lights?

my tk40 had no doughnut hole.

what gives?

anyone else have this problem?

EDIT: been using it more outside; it's not terrible and i'm fine with it. after some searching and reading, it seems this is common with some mc-e lights.
 
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