EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!

selfbuilt

selfbuilt

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Reviewer's Note: The P20C2 Mark II and P20A2 Mark II were provided for review by EagleTac. Please see their website for more info.

Warning: even more pic heavy than usual! :sssh:

Specifications for P20A2/P20C2 Mark II, according to EagleTac:
Please see my P20A2/P20C2 review for detailed specs of the original models
Please see my T20C2 Mark II review for a comparison to the Tactical version of the P20C2-II
  • CREE XP-G Premium R5 emitter (also available with XP-E Q4 Neutral White emitter)
  • P20A2-II (XP-G R5): Maximum output (OTF): 230 lumen / 60lumen / 15lumen - Runtime 1.5 hrs / 8hrs / 30hrs
  • P20C2-II (XP-G R5): Maximum output (OTF): 300 lumen / 60lumen / 5lumen - Runtime 1.7 hrs / 13hrs / 180+ hr
  • Three levels of output activated by twisting the Head/Bezel
  • Tactical strobe is user enabled, convenient and easily accessible
  • Crenulated Stainless Steel Bezel
  • Syntax ultra-clear harden/glass lens with AR coating
  • Mil-Spec Hard Anodized (Type III)
  • OP or Smooth Precision Aluminum Reflector
  • Gold Plated contacts for the best conduction
  • Engineered for a comfortable grip with aggressive knurling
  • Tactical Forward click tail-cap, easily activated with gloves
  • P20A2-II Batteries: Two AA batteries (also compatible with rechargeables or 1.5V lithiums)
  • P20C2-II Batteries: Two Lithium CR123A batteries (also compatible with two Li-ion rechargeables), 1x Li-ion rechargeable
  • Kit Options:
  • Base Model: Stainless Steel Bezel, Diffuser Filter , Spare O-rings, GITD Switch Boot, Black Stainless Steel Pocket Clip, Heavy Duty Nylon Holster w/ Flip, Mil-Spec Para cord Lanyard w/ quick attachment clip, User Manual
  • RGB Kit: Includes everything in base model, plus: Red Filter, Blue Filter and Green Filter
  • P20A2-II MSRP $75
  • P20C2-II MSRP $80
About six months ago, I reviewed the first generation P20A2/P20C2 “personal” lights from EagleTac. These new Mark II versions are a revised and improved build, similar to the shift from the original T20C2 to the T20C2 Mark II that I reviewed recently.

For most of the pics below, I will focus on the P20C2-II (the P20A2-II looks much the same, only longer).

P20C2II-15.jpg


By default, the P20A2/P20C2-II come with a stainless steel bezel and a removable black stainless steel clip attached. Included in the package is the manual, warranty card, spare o-rings, extra GITD tailcap boot cover, wrist lanyard, lanyard attachment clip, good quality belt pouch with closing flap and lens diffuser attachment. My samples also came with a rubber tailcap add-on piece to allow tailstanding.

Optional accessories are the RGB filter kit and weapon kit. Please see my original P20A2/C2 review to see R/G/B blue filters in action. Note that although the bezel ring attachment diameter/threading has changed slightly, the original P20A2/C2 RGB kit still fits on the new Mark II versions (scroll down for additional comments on this).

P20C2II-3.jpg

P20C2II-4.jpg


P20C2II-13.jpg

P20C2II-11.jpg

From left to right: Duracell AA, EagleTac P20A2 Mark II, original P20A2, P100A2, P10A2, NiteCore D20, 4Sevens Quark AA-2.

P20C2II-14.jpg

P20C2II-12.jpg

From left to right: Surefire CR123A, EagleTac P20C2 MarkII, original P20C2, T100C2 Mark II, T20C2 Mark II, JetBeam Jet-IIII ST, 4Sevens Quark 123-2.

P20A2-II: Weight 85.5g, Length 161.7mm x Width 25.8mm (bezel max)
P20C2-II: Weight 73.2g, Length 130.1mm x Width 25.8mm (bezel max)
T20C2-II: Weight 114.7g, Length 145.7mm x Width 33.5mm (bezel max)

While the external arrangement seems similar, things are quite different when you look under the hood (more on that in a moment)

On the surface, fit and finish remain excellent on my samples. No flaws in the black type-III hard anodizing. Consistent with other EagleTac lights, the knurling on the bezel and tailcap remains fairly aggressive. Identification labels are very sharp and clear, in bright white against the black background.

P20C2II-7.jpg

P20C2II-10.jpg

P20C2II-8.jpg

Screw threads are anodized for head or tailcap lock-out. :thumbsup: Due to the protruding forward clicky, the light cannot tailstand in its default form – but the rubber tailstanding attachment worked well in my testing (introduces some wobble, but I like that it’s easily swappable).

Note that although the lights look similar, the head screw threads are much thicker now on the Mark II, meaning the heads are NOT interchangeable between versions. The threading diameter at the tailcap stays the same, but number of tailcap threads has changed. However, tailcaps from the earlier version are still inter-changeable with the Mk II.

At the bezel, the difference in threading diameter and size is enough that the new Mark II SS bezel cannot screw on to the original P20A2/P20C2 head. However, the original SS bezel can fit on the Mark II head (albeit loosely - it never tightens all the way). But more importantly, the original edition plastic RGB kit and diffuser CAN screw tight on the new Mark II head. :thumbsup: I'm guessing there's more tolerance with the plastic bezels for a snug fit. The key point is that holders of the original RGB kit could still use them on the new Mark II versions. :)

P20C2II-16.jpg


UPDATE: For those of you wondering how to attach the wrist lanyard (above), you first must insert the lanyard clip ring on the tail section of the body, below the o-ring (basically, instead of the clip). You will need to take the o-ring off first to do this, since it is a tight fit. Also, I was lazy in the pic above and didn't take off the clip - but you will need to remove it if you want the tailcap to screw all the way down. It's basically one or the other - the lanyard ring or the clip, not both.


P20C2II-5.jpg

P20C2II-6.jpg


Here’s another major difference – a whole new emitter/pill/reflector assembly, and one that functions as a drop-in module (common to both personal models). :eek:oo: Actually, it is literally a screw-in module – which should help with heat transfer away from the pill and to the aluminum body (always a concern with standard drop-ins). You can thus replace the whole pill assembly with other modules, to switch to a different LED or reflector finish.

Here are some shots with the OP reflector module mounted:

P20C2II-9.jpg

P20C2II-2.jpg

P20C2II-1.jpg

The last shot is with the include diffuser bezel attachment screwed on.

The standard cool white version uses the new Cree XP-G emitter, with a R5 output bin (no tint bin reported). Also available from EagleTac is the relatively warm "neutral" XP-E 5A tint with a Q4 output bin. For those of you not familiar with tint bins, please see my Colour tint comparison and the summary LED tint charts found here.

And now for a comparison to other lights. All lights are on Max on Sanyo eneloop (P20A2-II comparisons) or an AW protected 17670/18650 (P20C2-II comparisons), about 0.5 meters from a white wall.

P20A2II-Beam25.jpg

P20AII-Beam100.jpg

P20A2II-Beam800.jpg


P20C2II-Beam25.jpg

P20C2II-Beam100.jpg

P20C2II-Beam800.jpg


As expected, the OP texturing smooth outs the corona around the hotspot (i.e. hotspot edge is less defined). FYI, in my testing of the T20C2-II, use of the OP reflector module was important to avoid a potential dark void in the center of the smooth reflector’s hotspot. If you have the choice, I strongly recommend you opt for OP.

Of course, there is a flip side to using an OP with an XP-G – throw is considerably reduced from the earlier XR-E Q5 editions.

To help you compare the effects of a diffuser, here’s a comparison of the OP version, taken about 1m from a white wall.

P20C2II-Beam1.jpg

P20C2II-Beam2.jpg


I didn’t retake the RGB filer shots, so please refer back to my original P20A2/P20C2 review for a general idea as to the colors.

User Interface

The P20C2 Mark II has an updated interface, and one that is identical to the new T20C2 mark II.

Like before for the Personal series, tighten the bezel for Turbo, loosen for General mode.

Where things change a bit are the "hidden" modes. Like before, there is a low output mode that can be accessed by rapidly switching the head within a sec or so (i.e. a rapid Turbo-General-Turbo, or General-Turbo-General switch). The low setting is not retained if you turn the light off – it will come back on in Turbo or General mode, depending on how you left the head. Interestingly, the light doesn't just jump from one output mode to another – when going down in output, it rapidly ramps down instead.

What’s new is the addition of strobe, beacon and SOS modes that you can cycle through in the same way as the Lo mode (i.e. just keep doing tighten-loosen-tighten switches to cycle through the hidden modes). A very nice upgrade. :)

The main complaint with the original P20A2/P20C2 was that strobe was also activated by clicking the tail switch off-on within 3 secs (later reduced to 1 sec). This prohibited momentary signaling. Now, you can enable or lock-out (i.e. remove) this tactical strobe feature by turning the light off-on fifteen times in ten seconds. Very nice to have the option to get rid of it completely! :clap:

P20C2II-Strobe.gif


Strobe frequency was measured at 9Hz, similar to the previous model lights.

P20C2II-Beacon.gif


Beacon mode was measure at 2Hz, which is a good slow strobe freq IMO. :)

No PWM (Pulse-Width-Modulation)

Consistent with other EagleTac lights, I was unable to detect any signs of PWM. :) As the runtimes clearly indicate, lower output levels appear to be current-controlled.

Testing Method: All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for the extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

Throw values are the square-root of lux measurements taken at 1 meter from the lens, using a light meter.

Throw/Output Summary Chart:

2AA-Summary.gif


18650-Summary1.gif

18650-Summary2.gif

18650-Summary3.gif


As expected from the beamshots, max throw on these XP-G-equipped lights is lower than the earlier XR-E models. However, Max output has increased measurably.

One unusual finding – the Lo mode of my P20C2-II was not that much lower than General mode.:thinking: I suspect this is an anomaly, as the P20A2-II was consistent with the earlier lights – as well as the modern T20C2-II.

Output/Runtime Comparison:

P20A2II-HiEne.gif

P20A2II-MedEne.gif


P20A2II-HiL91.gif

P20A2II-HiAlka.gif


Note: Effective January 2010, all CR123A runtimes are now performed solely on Titanium Innovations batteries sponsored by BatteryJunction.com. You can compare the generally excellent performance of these CR123A cells relative to the Duracell/Surefire cells used in all my earlier reviews here. I have marked all the new runtimes of lights with Titanium Innovations CR123As on the graphs with an "*".

P20C2II-Hi18650.gif

P20C2II-Med18650.gif


P20C2II-HiRCR.gif

P20C2II-MedRCR.gif

P20C2II-LoRCR.gif


P20C2II-HiCR123A.gif


The P20A2/P20C2 Mark II lights are clearly heavily driven on max. Coupled with their R5 output bin emitters, these are the brightest Cree-based lights in their respective classes (along with the T20C2-II). :eek:oo:

Regulation and runtime performance is very good at all levels, consistent with a current-controlled circuit.

Potential Issues

Although I have only tested the OP reflector modules, I know from my T20C2 Mark II testing that the Smooth reflector can produce a dark center void in the hotspot. I understand from EagleTac that OP with be new default on future shipping lights. :thumbsup:

Lights use a common drop-in for the emitter/pill/reflector combo, allowing the user to upgrade or swap as needed. However, all drop-ins run the risk of reduced heat transfer to the body of the flashlight. In this case, EagleTac has thoughtfully designed the drop-in to actually screw into the head, which should help with thermal transfer.

The P20C2 Mark II battery tube is only wide enough to take protected 17670, not 18650. If you want to use 18650, you will need to get the Tactical T20C2 Mark II version.

Lo mode on my P20C2 Mark II sample was not as low as expected. :thinking: This is likely a faulty unit, as the T20C2 and P20A2 models were consistent with each other, and across the various build versions.

General Observations

As with my review of the T20C2 Mark II, I consider these Mark II versions of the Personal P20A2/P20C2 to be definite improvements over the earlier models.

EagleTac has fixed the main issue with the original T20C2/P20A2/P20C2 (i.e. mandatory tactical strobe mode that prevented momentary signaling). You can now enable or disable this feature at will, which is a great improvement (it is off by default)

They’ve also added a few new features and upgrades, such as the hidden strobe, beacon and SOS modes. Like the Lo mode, these are accessed by a tighten-loosen-tighten switch of the head. Like the T20C2 Mark II, max output has increased significantly, thanks to the new XP-G R5 output bin (which is driven harder than in earlier lights). :thumbsup:

The build has also seen a few significant modifications – most notably, the new common user-replaceable drop-in module design (allowing you to swap emitter/pill/reflector combos). The optional RGB kit from the original T20C2 is still available, and fits the new Mark II.

What hasn’t changed is the overall build quality of the light, which I consider to be very good. It is certainly hard to argue with the value you get here for the price. :eek:oo:

Note that the throw of these new XP-G-equipped modules is not as great as the earlier XR-Es on the original builds. EagleTac informs me that they are working on an optional XR-E drop-in for the T20C2-II, but I don't know if they plan to do the same for the P20A2/P20C2-II. :shrug:

More than just a fix of the original P20A2/P20C2, these Mark II versions are significant new additions to their respective classes. Along with the T20C2-II, they are definitely worthy of your consideration.
 
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TONY M

TONY M

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Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!

Another smashing review! Way to go Selfbuilt.
 
Gazerbeam

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Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!

Great review as always, don't see how you find the time! :twothumbs
Do you ever get a chance to sleep?
 
selfbuilt

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Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!

Thanks for the support! :)

FYI, I've just updated the review with this pic and text:

P20C2II-16.jpg


For those of you wondering how to attach the wrist lanyard (above), you first must insert the lanyard clip ring on the tail section of the body, below the o-ring (basically, instead of the clip). You will need to take the o-ring off first to do this, since it is a tight fit. Also, I was lazy in the pic above and didn't take off the clip - but you will need to remove it if you want the tailcap to screw all the way down.
 
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K

KingCanada

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Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!

  • CREE XP-G Premium R5 emitter (also available with XP-E Q4 Neutral White emitter)
  • P20A2-II: Maximum output (OTF): 190 lumen / 60lumen / 5lumen - Runtime 1.7 hrs / 13hrs / 100+ hr
  • P20C2-II: Maximum output (OTF): 230 lumen / 60lumen / 15lumen - Runtime 1.5 hrs / 8hrs / 30hrs

I think your P20A2-II Specs are for the P20C2-II w/XP-E Q4 NW

And your P20C2-II Specs are for the P20A2-II w/XP-G R5.
 
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JaguarDave-in-Oz

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Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!

I'm intersted in your comment "One unusual finding – the Lo mode of my P20C2-II was not that much lower than General mode. I suspect this is an anomaly, as the P20A2-II was consistent with the earlier lights – as well as the modern T20C2-II.". Maybe yours is faulty. On my P20C2 MkII the low is very low. So low that I find it hard to use outdoors until I've had it on for a while to get my eyes adjusted to the low light. It's level appears to be about half as bright my original model P20C2 "mkI" (despite the markings on my boxes saying the situation is the opposite).

A couple of additional observations if I may - 1. the body may look the same as the original "MkI" model, however the threads are comepletely different and the head won't screw on. They've gone from finer vee threads to coarser square ones. 2. The MkII model is shorter by about an eighth of an inch than the "MkI" model. Difference is on the head length. The stainless bezels don't seem to interchange between models either. 3. The thickness of metal on the rim around the glass lens has increased so it's likely a bit more able to stand a drop on the head end.
 
selfbuilt

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Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!

I think your P20A2-II Specs are for the P20C2-II w/XP-E Q4 NW And your P20C2-II Specs are for the P20A2-II w/XP-G R5.
Good catch, on both counts. Just corrected them with the appropriate XP-G R5 specs. :)

I'm intersted in your comment "One unusual finding – the Lo mode of my P20C2-II was not that much lower than General mode. I suspect this is an anomaly, as the P20A2-II was consistent with the earlier lights – as well as the modern T20C2-II.". Maybe yours is faulty. On my P20C2 MkII the low is very low. So low that I find it hard to use outdoors until I've had it on for a while to get my eyes adjusted to the low light. It's level appears to be about half as bright my original model P20C2 "mkI" (despite the markings on my boxes saying the situation is the opposite).
Yes, that is what meant - I suspect my P20C2-II is faulty. My P20A2, P20A2-II, T20C2, T20C2-II OP, T20C2-II SMO, and P20C2 are all much lower on Lo. Although there is some variabilty between them, this P20C2-II is a good 3-4 times brighter than those other 6 lights. I will clarify that comment to make it clear that I think this one specimen is faulty.

A couple of additional observations if I may - 1. the body may look the same as the original "MkI" model, however the threads are comepletely different and the head won't screw on. They've gone from finer vee threads to coarser square ones. 2. The MkII model is shorter by about an eighth of an inch than the "MkI" model. Difference is on the head length. The stainless bezels don't seem to interchange between models either. 3. The thickness of metal on the rim around the glass lens has increased so it's likely a bit more able to stand a drop on the head end.
Yes, good point about the screw thread changes.

I will double-check the bezel - thinking back, I'm not sure now if I actually tried threading the old attachements (I clearly remember the T20C2 ones fit both versions, but I may have missed this one). I will double-check and report back.
 
selfbuilt

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Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!

A couple of additional observations if I may - 1. the body may look the same as the original "MkI" model, however the threads are comepletely different and the head won't screw on. They've gone from finer vee threads to coarser square ones. 2. The MkII model is shorter by about an eighth of an inch than the "MkI" model. Difference is on the head length. The stainless bezels don't seem to interchange between models either. 3. The thickness of metal on the rim around the glass lens has increased so it's likely a bit more able to stand a drop on the head end.
Ok, I've double-checked, and I was correct - the original RGB kit from the first edition P20C2 does indeed fit on the P20C2 Mark II.

As JaquarDave points out, there are threading changes throughout the light (the most prominent being in the head threading). At the bezel, the difference is enough that the new Mark II SS bezel cannot screw on to the original P20C2 head. However, the original SS bezel can fit on the Mark II head (albeit loosely - it never tightens all the way). And the plastic original edition RGB kit and diffuser can indeed screw tight on the new Mark II head (I'm guessing there's more tolerance with the plastic for a snug fit).

The key point is that holders of the original RGB kit could still use them on the new Mark II versions. :)
 
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Surnia

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Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!

Wow the drop in lux is surprising, I was not expecting such a significant decrease! Since the neutral dropins are XP-E, would the throw numbers go back up when you use them?

with the comparison of csshih's review along with yours, his outdoor shots seem to mimic yours, but due to the sheer amount of light coming out, the lack of throw seems to have a minimal effect on how far it can shine.

Thanks for the review Selfbuilt, I was waiting for this review! Sending $10 to your battery fund for your data on the SA2 and the P20s!
 
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JaguarDave-in-Oz

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Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!

I use both my p20C2's in open country and in normal conditions there's not a huge difference between them in how far you can see though they do it a tad differently. At a distance, I find the MkII to have a much wider and more useable spread of hotspot that allows one to spot things like foxes (and I've tested on owls too) almost as well as well as the earlier model which doesn't cover as much area at longer ranges despite covering just that little bit more distance.

I find myself liking to use the MkII quite often like that.

However - where the earlier model's much more focussed hotspot does come significantly into play is when there's fog, mist, rain or dust even in fairly minor amounts. The "MkI" see's quite a bit further under those conditions and when conditions are like that I'd choose it everytime, it's definately better and it also creates much less of the "wall of illuminated mist" right in front of the user when operating it.
 
Chevy-SS

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Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!

Great reviews, thanks!

I recently bought both of these lights (with OP reflectors), and am very happy with them.

Recent purchases:
4-edc-lights.jpg


-
 
selfbuilt

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Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!

Wow the drop in lux is surprising, I was not expecting such a significant decrease!
It's not really as great as it seems. Raw lux is highly misleading, since light decays by an inverse square relationship. As such, you should look at the "throw" numbers in that column (i.e. the square-root of raw lux). Comparing Mk 1 vs Mk II (both OP), the drop in "throw" is only ~13-23% across the range of lights and batteries. That better matches what I see by eye.

I use both my p20C2's in open country and in normal conditions there's not a huge difference between them in how far you can see though they do it a tad differently. At a distance, I find the MkII to have a much wider and more useable spread of hotspot that allows one to spot things like foxes (and I've tested on owls too) almost as well as well as the earlier model which doesn't cover as much area at longer ranges despite covering just that little bit more distance.

However - where the earlier model's much more focussed hotspot does come significantly into play is when there's fog, mist, rain or dust even in fairly minor amounts. The "MkI" see's quite a bit further under those conditions and when conditions are like that I'd choose it everytime, it's definately better and it also creates much less of the "wall of illuminated mist" right in front of the user when operating it.
A good summary - that's pretty much exactly what I would have expected. Thanks for sharing!

Personally, I like carrying a general purpose light for regular use (like the new Mk IIs, or other equivalent lights), but have a small thrower in reserve for poor visibility conditions. The Ray D1 is fitting that purpose well for me lately (replaces my old D-mini).
 
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selfbuilt

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Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!

Just a :bumpit: for a review that may have gotten a little lost in the shuffle of new lights. It took me a while to get this one out. :sssh:

FYI, I'm finding I enjoy the small size of the P20C2. Although not quite as compact as the 4Sevens Quark or JetBeam Jet-III ST (a long-time favourite of mine in the "compact-but-solid-feeling" 2xCR123A class), it sure does put out a lot of light for its size.

It's true it doesn't throw that far, but I grab throwers when I want to get searching at night. Like the Jet-III ST, it has a nice general purpose beam for working in near quarters.
 
N

nonanon

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Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!

Please comment on tint and OTF of ET P20C XP-G R5, Quark 123-2 XPG R5 and Fenix PD30 XPG R4 as well as minimum levels.

Thank you
 
Chevy-SS

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Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!

Please comment on tint and OTF of ET P20C XP-G R5, Quark 123-2 XPG R5 and Fenix PD30 XPG R4 as well as minimum levels.

Thank you

Not sure if you were asking me, but since my pic has all the lights you ask about, I will submit my subjective (not scientific) opinion.

TINTS:
P20 - mostly white (touch of blue)
Quark - mostly white (touch of blue/green)
PD30 - very green

OTF:
P20: ~250 lumens
Quark: ~210 lumens
PD30: ~175 lumens

-
 
selfbuilt

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Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!

Please comment on tint and OTF of ET P20C XP-G R5, Quark 123-2 XPG R5 and Fenix PD30 XPG R4 as well as minimum levels.
:sigh: There really isn't much point in discussing tint of n=1 samples - if the manufacturer doesn't specify a tint bin (and almost no one does), then there is no way to guarantee what you will receive within a defined range (e.g. cool white).

As for min and max "OTF", you just need to compare the relative output values of my lightbox and ceiling bounce numbers to estimate. But I don't have the Quark or Fenix XPG lights to compare (except for the TK12 XPG-R5 and upcoming LD10/LD20 XPG-R4 reviews).
 
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nonanon

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Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!

Please forgive a novice ignorance.

Selfbuilt, is there a technical reason why the P20A2 low is 15 lumen using 2 AA, while the P20C can go down to 5 lumen using 2 CR123?
 
jhc37013

jhc37013

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Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!

Has anyone bought the P20C2 MII XP-E Q4? I already have the XP-G P20 and it's probably my favorite light in it's size but since getting a ZL SC50w I'm on bit of a neutral tint binge, is the Q4 available with the OP reflector or SMO only. What does the XP-E Q4 beam look like in the P20 with a smooth reflector is there a lot of rings?

There is little to know info that I have been able to find on the neutral tint P20 MII so who has one that can comment?
 
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lesur

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Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!

Great review. Based on this review as well as a number of others I bought my first expensive flashlight, the Eagletac p20c2 Mk II. I'm really looking forward to receiving it and putting it through its paces.
 
shipwreck

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Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!

Great review. Based on this review as well as a number of others I bought my first expensive flashlight, the Eagletac p20c2 Mk II. I'm really looking forward to receiving it and putting it through its paces.

I just ordered one this morning too. Can't wait to get it. Thanks for the review!
 
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