EagleTac T20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIMES and more!
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Glock27
Enlightened
Has anyone removed the reverse polarity plastic around the Positive connection on the head?
I have a bunch of flat top cells that won't work and the button top requirement sure limits choices.
G27
I have a bunch of flat top cells that won't work and the button top requirement sure limits choices.
G27
I'm pretty sure i read someone else did and it then worked fine with flat tops.
Found the thread:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3450980#post3450980
Found the thread:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3450980#post3450980
I've removed the plastic ring on all of my Eagletac drop-in modules - I used a pair of wire nippers to carefully cut away the edge of the black plastic ring until it basically pops off. Now they work even with my flat-top AW 2600mAh 18650's. I just have to be very careful about battery insertion from now on because I don't know if Eagletac uses any electronic reverse polarity protection or if they are relying on physical protection only - and I'm not really inclined to smoke one of my drop-ins to find out
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Ray_of_Light
Flashlight Enthusiast
Thanks for the review and the update, Selfbuilt.
Fellow CPFers knows how "picky" I am and the fact that I find defects in about every light; with the T20C2 Mk II, that I have bought few days ago, there is really nothing I can complain about; I would say buy it with confidence.
The T20C2 Mk II has replaced my Olight M20-R5. It is slightly brighter, due to a slight higher drive current; it weight a bit less and balances better in the hand, has better anodise, better UI (no mandatory strobe in sequence), has better grip, it is friendler to the pocket (I don't use holsters).
The other side of the "compare" with the M20, the T20 has a measurable activation delay, expecially on Med level (on High it is barely percepible) and has the problem caused from the physical polarity reversal protection, which impede the use of flat-top 18650. I didn't wanted to defeat the protection since I know I would blew the light if I change the battery in the dark, so I bought two Soshine 2800 with button-top.
Regards
Anthony
Fellow CPFers knows how "picky" I am and the fact that I find defects in about every light; with the T20C2 Mk II, that I have bought few days ago, there is really nothing I can complain about; I would say buy it with confidence.
The T20C2 Mk II has replaced my Olight M20-R5. It is slightly brighter, due to a slight higher drive current; it weight a bit less and balances better in the hand, has better anodise, better UI (no mandatory strobe in sequence), has better grip, it is friendler to the pocket (I don't use holsters).
The other side of the "compare" with the M20, the T20 has a measurable activation delay, expecially on Med level (on High it is barely percepible) and has the problem caused from the physical polarity reversal protection, which impede the use of flat-top 18650. I didn't wanted to defeat the protection since I know I would blew the light if I change the battery in the dark, so I bought two Soshine 2800 with button-top.
Regards
Anthony
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Just updated the main thread - I've added some additional lights to my 100-Yard Outdoor Beamshot Round-up, including a number of XP-G R5 lights. Check out that round-up thread for more details. Here is a relevant animated GIF comparison:
Phaserburn
Flashlight Enthusiast
Wonder if ET has any plans to release an R4 neutral XP-G module for this light. The Q4 XPE, while good, isn't as up to date for me for this light.
richpalm
Banned
I just got one based on this review. Thanks Selfbuilt-you do nice work!
Very happy with mine. I lit up the whole back yard, the neighbor's yard, the house a block over... and... and....!
Rich
Very happy with mine. I lit up the whole back yard, the neighbor's yard, the house a block over... and... and....!
Rich
Yes, I agree - the XP-G R5 version has a nice balance of throw and spill for a general-purpose light. I particularly like how bright the spill is in the near area (i.e. you can see what is around you very well).Very happy with mine. I lit up the whole back yard, the neighbor's yard, the house a block over... and... and....!
Although the pics are useful to allow you to compare, in real life I find all these lights are brighter than they appear in the shots. A problem with the limited dynamic range of the camera (plus the fact that I optimized the settings to compare centre-beam throw). But the T20C2-II XP-G R5 does stand out as having among the brightest spill.
Re: EagleTac T20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5)
Hi Selfbulit,
I was wondering if you could help me making a decision between the EagleTac T20C2 Mk2 and the Fenix TK12/11.
I will mainly be using the light for off-road and on-road cycling.
Simply looking at your nigh time beam shots, the Eagletac appears to be the clear winner, lighting up the road ahead much more brightly than the TK12.
However the TK12 seems to beat the T20C2 on battery life, holding it's power very steadily until power loss (looking at your graphs). Ideally I would like to get 2hrs + running max brightness.
Please could you shine some light on the pro and cons of both lights, which may have a bearing on my particular application as a bike light. At the moment I am leaning towards the EagleTac simply because it looks much brighter on the road surface in your beam shots.
Many thanks in advance!
Hi Selfbulit,
I was wondering if you could help me making a decision between the EagleTac T20C2 Mk2 and the Fenix TK12/11.
I will mainly be using the light for off-road and on-road cycling.
Simply looking at your nigh time beam shots, the Eagletac appears to be the clear winner, lighting up the road ahead much more brightly than the TK12.
However the TK12 seems to beat the T20C2 on battery life, holding it's power very steadily until power loss (looking at your graphs). Ideally I would like to get 2hrs + running max brightness.
Please could you shine some light on the pro and cons of both lights, which may have a bearing on my particular application as a bike light. At the moment I am leaning towards the EagleTac simply because it looks much brighter on the road surface in your beam shots.
Many thanks in advance!
tandem
Enlightened
Re: EagleTac T20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5)
I've been looking at exactly these three lights (as well as the Malkoff M61 in a MD2 body). I've been trying to find a good general purpose light that can accept a single 18650 (including AW flat tops) cell and deliver a high level of light output along a fairly flat output-runtime trace, so naturally the TK12 R5 (and presumably also the TK11 R5) look like contenders as does the T20C2.
I don't need a thrower - brighter spill and/or a bigger hotspot are pluses for a bike oriented light. But this class of light seems generally to be more throw oriented, with differences of course between brands and models. Still I think either of these could work well for riding. I wonder if something mundane like battery compatibility (I'd like to use higher capacity cells wherever it makes sense) will point the direction?
Maybe these beamshots will help (Malkoff, Eagletac and TK11). Of the three for cycling I rather like the Malkoff's beam the best for the shape, but the runtime on the TK11/12 is likely to be the most even / longest of the three.
What I can't figure out is why the TK12 is somewhat cheaper than the TK11.
I've been looking at exactly these three lights (as well as the Malkoff M61 in a MD2 body). I've been trying to find a good general purpose light that can accept a single 18650 (including AW flat tops) cell and deliver a high level of light output along a fairly flat output-runtime trace, so naturally the TK12 R5 (and presumably also the TK11 R5) look like contenders as does the T20C2.
I don't need a thrower - brighter spill and/or a bigger hotspot are pluses for a bike oriented light. But this class of light seems generally to be more throw oriented, with differences of course between brands and models. Still I think either of these could work well for riding. I wonder if something mundane like battery compatibility (I'd like to use higher capacity cells wherever it makes sense) will point the direction?
Maybe these beamshots will help (Malkoff, Eagletac and TK11). Of the three for cycling I rather like the Malkoff's beam the best for the shape, but the runtime on the TK11/12 is likely to be the most even / longest of the three.
What I can't figure out is why the TK12 is somewhat cheaper than the TK11.
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Re: EagleTac T20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5)
The TK12 actually has a wider spillbeam than the T20C2-II - but wider also means dimmer, which is why my exterior beamshots show the T20C2-II so much brighter in the foreground. Check out my TK12 review for white-wall beamshots - they give a general idea of the difference.
I haven't done much cycling at night, but what little I have done makes me suggest the T20C2-II. I personally prefer the tighter and brighter spillbeam. Note that I haven't gone off-road in the dark, but I would think you would want a tight beam even more in that situation.
As for runtime, all my measures were done on 2200mAh AW cells. Higher capacity cells would last longer.
Well, part of that may be because the 100-yard shots were set up with camera settings and positioning to best show the center beam throw.
The TK12 actually has a wider spillbeam than the T20C2-II - but wider also means dimmer, which is why my exterior beamshots show the T20C2-II so much brighter in the foreground. Check out my TK12 review for white-wall beamshots - they give a general idea of the difference.
I haven't done much cycling at night, but what little I have done makes me suggest the T20C2-II. I personally prefer the tighter and brighter spillbeam. Note that I haven't gone off-road in the dark, but I would think you would want a tight beam even more in that situation.
As for runtime, all my measures were done on 2200mAh AW cells. Higher capacity cells would last longer.
tandem
Enlightened
Re: EagleTac T20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5)
I can think of another potentially good word for the T20C2-II and cyclists - if the beacon mode is something useful like a 2Hz pulse instead of SOS. If not, well, sigh.
For road riding I agree 100%. I want enough bright spill starting say 5 - 10 feet from me to aid in hopping over obstacles (potholes, curbs and such) even at speed and the hotspot and remaining spill far enough forward to give me time to react. If going fast you need that path of light to extend farther because reaction time needed at 10mph vs 30mph is quite different.
If they are urban "trails" - wider, fairly predictable - then anything that works for road use typically works well for urban trails.
Between the Eagletac and Fenix, for cycling use, I much prefer the Eagletac's beam over the TK11 (and presumably lthe TK12 is fairly similar).
I prefer a lot more floody light for actual off road rougher trail use. You are typically going slower, but the route you ride usually is a lot more variable and twisty. Particularly if bar mounted and going round a corner too tight a beam can cause you to miss the low hanging obstacle coming up fast at your head when it is opposite where your light is currently shining.
Usually a helmet mounted light in addition to bar mounted is the right solution for such riding.
Thanks selfbuilt for your reviews, they've been incredibly helpful to me.
I can think of another potentially good word for the T20C2-II and cyclists - if the beacon mode is something useful like a 2Hz pulse instead of SOS. If not, well, sigh.
For road riding I agree 100%. I want enough bright spill starting say 5 - 10 feet from me to aid in hopping over obstacles (potholes, curbs and such) even at speed and the hotspot and remaining spill far enough forward to give me time to react. If going fast you need that path of light to extend farther because reaction time needed at 10mph vs 30mph is quite different.
If they are urban "trails" - wider, fairly predictable - then anything that works for road use typically works well for urban trails.
Between the Eagletac and Fenix, for cycling use, I much prefer the Eagletac's beam over the TK11 (and presumably lthe TK12 is fairly similar).
I prefer a lot more floody light for actual off road rougher trail use. You are typically going slower, but the route you ride usually is a lot more variable and twisty. Particularly if bar mounted and going round a corner too tight a beam can cause you to miss the low hanging obstacle coming up fast at your head when it is opposite where your light is currently shining.
Usually a helmet mounted light in addition to bar mounted is the right solution for such riding.
Thanks selfbuilt for your reviews, they've been incredibly helpful to me.
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Re: EagleTac vs Fenix
I thought all of your beam shots used exactly the same camera settings, so should provide a reasonably reliable way of comparing the lights outdoors?
I'm still leaning towards the EagleTac but I'm still a bit confused...
The Fenix has a higher light output (more spill) but clearly comes off worse in the beam shot photos... the EagleTac is almost twice as bright and seems to have greater spill than the Fenix! Shouldn't it be the other way around?
Also the light intenisity of the Fenix remains practically constant throughout until the battery starts to die, as shown on the graph. The EagleTac light intensity starts off lower and slowly decreases as the battery drains. I'm concerned about how this affects performance of the EagleTac as time goes on, as opposed to the initial output?
I thought all of your beam shots used exactly the same camera settings, so should provide a reasonably reliable way of comparing the lights outdoors?
I'm still leaning towards the EagleTac but I'm still a bit confused...
The Fenix has a higher light output (more spill) but clearly comes off worse in the beam shot photos... the EagleTac is almost twice as bright and seems to have greater spill than the Fenix! Shouldn't it be the other way around?
Also the light intenisity of the Fenix remains practically constant throughout until the battery starts to die, as shown on the graph. The EagleTac light intensity starts off lower and slowly decreases as the battery drains. I'm concerned about how this affects performance of the EagleTac as time goes on, as opposed to the initial output?
That's what I meant. All the pics are taken at the same settings, but those settings were designed to help you draw conclusions about the hotspot. To really compare the spill, I would have to pull the camera further back and perhaps try different exposure settings.
The problem with the two lights in question is typical in cases where the spillbeam width varies greatly. In a more closed-in environment, the TK12 could very well look brighter. But because you can't see the edge of the TK12's spillbeam in the 100-yard shots, you can't appreciate how much wider an area it lights up (and again, the exposure settings make it hard to see the TK12s spill). In real life, the TK12 does just fine.
I wouldn't worry about that - the timescale is so large that you could not possible notice the gradual decline over time by eye.
Can't remember off-hand if flat-tops worked (I'm away right now, and can't double-check. But 2900mAh Redilasts cells are now available (identical to the AW 2900mAh cells, but have a button).
Kevin1322
Flashlight Enthusiast
I have the Olight M20 Warrior Premium R2 and think I have finally decided on pulling the trigger on the T20C2 Mark II. Before I get the RGB kit or the extra tail standing tailcap, I was wondering if anyone can answer these questions: Do the filters for the M20 fit the T20? For those that have (if any) the rubber addapter tail standing piece and the actual optional tail standing tailcap, which do you prefer? Your thoughts please.
:welcome:
Both are good lights. Basically, the XP-G R5-equipped lightss have the advantage of smooth beams (no rings) with slightly more overall output. The older XR-E R2-equipped lights typically throw further, but with noticeable light and dark rings around the hotspot.
If you are happy with the beam pattern of your TK11-R2, then there's not much of a compelling reason to "upgrade" - unless you prefer the user interface, extras, or customizability of the T20C2-II.
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