Emergency Vehicle Light

[Jammer Six]

Okay, I've had really good luck with you guys, (I'm the guy who caught the SOS problem) and so I'm back.

I got carried away with Fenix, now I'm going to ask you guys instead.

I'm looking for a pair of flashlights (one for my pickup, one for her car) that hopefully will never be used. They'll be "oh, poop, we need a light" flashlights, for emergencies only. Accidents. Broken stuff. Bad times in a car.

Let me know.

==================Flashlight Recommendation Checklist================

1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?

____I would like to purchase the light in person from a brick and mortar store. I am located in ______________.
_XX___This will be mail-order or Online (location doesn't matter).


2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest!

____I don't know yet
____Up to $25.
____Up to $50.
____Up to $100.
____Up to $200.
____Up to $300.
_XX___Essentially unlimited.


3) Format:

____I am not sure, please help me decide.
__X__I want a flashlight (hand held/self contained).
____I want a self-contained headlamp.
____I want a headlamp with an external pack/power source.
____I want a mounted light (typically for a bicycle or vehicle)
____I want a lantern/area light.
____I want a portable spotlight (it may have an external power source).
____Other ____________________________________________


4) Size:

____MICRO - Keychain size.
____TINY - Every day carry (2-4 inches).
____SMALL - Every day carry (4-7 inches).
____MEDIUM - Holster/belt ring carry. (>7 inches)
____LARGE - Big enough to need its own travel case.
__X__I don't know/I don't care.


5) Emitter/Light source:

____LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)
____Incandescent (known for superior color rendition)
____HID (known for max output, but often at the expense of size)
__X__I don't know.


6) Manufacturer:

__X__I want to buy a light from a large/traditional manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.
____I would like a light from a specialty manufacturer (Possibly limited run/Custom).
____I am interested in assembling my own components. (for example a "host" or flashlight body from one manufacturer, and a "drop-in" emitter from another source).


7) What power source do you want to use?

____I intend to use "Primary"/Disposable Alkaline batteries based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D sized cells common to most stores.
____I intend to use "Primary"/Disposable Lithium batteries based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D and CR123 sized cells common to most stores (often a cold weather or long storage choice).
____I intend to use Rechargeable cells (NiMH or NiCD) based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D sized cells common to most stores.
____I intend to use Rechargeable cells based on less common formats (18500 or 18650 Li-Ion, RCR123, et-al).
____I want a light with an integrated rechargeable battery pack.
__X__I don't know/I need more information on power sources.

7a) If you have selected a rechargeable option
____I want a light that plugs directly into the wall (literally with prongs built into the light)
____I want a light that has a recharging adapter (your typical "wall wart")
____I want a light that snaps into a cradle (usually mounted on a wall)
____I want a separate/stand-alone charger (this involves removing the batteries to charge)
____I don't care


8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is not a happy experience).

____I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (1-10 lumens).
____I want an indoor "blackout" light (15-50 lumens)
____I want to confidently walk around an unlit/unpaved rural area (60-150 lumens).
____I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).
____I want to illuminate an entire field, the neighbor's front yard several houses down, impress my friends and neighbors, etc. (300-700 lumens).
__X__I want search and rescue type illumination (800+ lumens).

__X__SPECIAL NOTE: Burst/Turbo mode Category - There are several lights that will run at a super bright maximum for a very limited period (usually 5-10 minutes) and then will "step-down" to a lower level for thermal control. Check here if this is acceptable.


9) Flood vs Throw: Flood covers an area, Throw reaches out to a distance.

____All Flood: I am doing "arms length" tasks like reading and campsite cooking.
____Wide Flood: I want a defined flood area for semi-close tasks like after-dark campsite tasks or working on a car.
____Narrow Flood: I want a sharply defined flood area that will project some distance for tasks like trail walking.
__X__Wide Throw: I want a beam with a noticeable hot-center for distance throw and a significant amount of "side-spill". Good for rough trail hiking, search and rescue, and general distance work.
____Narrow Throw: I want a beam with a very tight "hot center" and minimal "side-spill". Good for distance viewing, fog, and looking through dense undergrowth.
____Turbohead: I want a far-distance projector with a sharply focused spot of light and minimal or zero side-spill. Good for extreme distance and impressing your friends.

9a) Distance: How far away will you typically need to see with this light (check all that apply)
____Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
____Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
____5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
____30-50 yards/meters (I have a big backyard)
__X__50-150 yards/meters (I live in a very rural area/farm with wide open spaces)
____150+ yards (I am searching from a helicopter)

10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum continuous output).

____Up to 30 minutes (I want the brightest [and potentially smallest] light for brief periods)
____30-60 minutes (I have plenty of batteries just ready to be changed)
__x__90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)
____3 hours + (I critically need this light to run on max for extended periods in between battery changes/charges).




11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase "you get what you pay for" is very accurate for flashlights.

____Not Important (A "night-stand" light).
____Slightly Important (Walks around the neighborhood).
____Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
__x__Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).
____I don't know.


12) Switch Size, Type, and location (choose all that apply):

____Any size switch will do.
____I need a BIG switch (I'll be using gloves or have very large hands or coordination issues).
____I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
____I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
____I want a momentary switch (Predominantly for use with signaling and short bursts of momentary light only).
____I want a twisty switch (Tighten the head/tailcap to activate, and the light will stay on until the head/tailcap is loosened).
____I want a body mounted switch (near the head, like on a Maglite).
__x__I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today's high end lights).
____I want a remote switch (usually found on high-end bicycle headlights)
____I don't care.
____I don't know.
____Other, please specify____________________.


13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.

__x__A simple on-off with only one output level is fine for me.
____I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
____I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
__x__I want a programmable light.
____I want a selector ring.
__x__I want a strobe mode. (Oscillating pattern to confuse/blind aka "Police Mode")
____I want SOS mode. (blinks in ...---... emergency pattern)
__x__I want a beacon mode. (Regular flashes at full power to show location.)
____I don't care.
____I don't know.


14)Material/Finish/Coating

____Plastic/composite body (this may limit your choices significantly).
____Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today's higher end flashlights).
____Stainless steel (durable, but much heavier than aluminum)
____Titanium (durable and nearly as lightweight as aluminum, but can be moderately to significantly more expensive).
__x__I don't care.
____I don't know.
____Other, please specify____________.

15) Water resistance
____None needed
__x__IPX4 (Splash resistant)
__x__IPX7 (Waterproof to 1 meter/30min)
____IPX8 (Submersible to greater than 1 meter for 4 hours)

16) Storage conditions
____In house (temperature/climate controlled environment)
____Emergency kit (long standby periods)
__x__Automobile glove-box (wide temperature swings, long standby periods, critical reliability)
____Other_________________________________________ ____


17) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any/all below.

____Red filter (for preserving night vision).
____Other filter colors (Amber, Green, Blue, _________).
____Dedicated R/G/B secondary LEDs.
__x__"Hybrid" light (bright incandescent combined with long running LEDs)
____Pocket/belt clip
____Holster
__x__Wrist/Neck Lanyard
____Crenulated bezel
____Non-sparking, Intrinsically Safe (IS) for use in explosive environments

 

[FlashInThePan]

Welcome! I'm sure people will have some great suggestions for specific flashlights, so I'm just going to throw in a few general ideas to consider when choosing a flashlight for your car:


Use lithium primary batteries:

If you're buying a light to use in your car, get lithium primary batteries. They'll stand up to extreme temperatures better than alkalines or rechargeables, and won't leak (like alkalines). More importantly, many rechargeables will self-discharge over time, so your rechargeable flashlight may not work if it's been sitting in your car for a few years.

Lithium primaries have a 10-year shelf life, so they're great for a car light that might not be touched for 2 or 3 years - but will then absolutely, positively need to work when you click that button! (And although lithium and lithium-ion batteries sound similar, they're actually two different types of batteries. Lithiums are the primary kind, while lithium-ion batteries are the rechargeable ones.)

I like CR-123s because they have a lot of power for their size - but you can also get lithium batteries in AA or AAA sizes. Your choice of lights is almost endless. It's important to realize that most lithium batteries will have a slightly higher voltage than their alkaline counterparts (for example, alkaline AAs are 1.2v, while lithium AAs are 1.5v)....so you'll want to make sure that your flashlight can handle that higher voltage. You can find the light's acceptable voltage range on a company's web site.


Consider adding a headlamp:

Sure, they look dorky. But it's a lot easier to change a tire with two hands. Or fix a windshield. Or treat a wounded patient. You can spend a lot of money on a great flashlight, but consider adding a decent $30 headlamp with a decent flood to your car emergency kit. You'll be surprised at how helpful it is in an actual emergency.


Buy a diffuser tip:

If you're set on buying just one flashlight, make it a thrower (with a tighter spot) and add a diffuser tip. You can always turn a thrower into a floodlight, but you can't go the other way. You can put a piece of paper or a paper towel over a light to help diffuse the beam.



It sounds like you know and like Fenix. They make good flashlights. The PD35 or PD32 plus a $4 diffuser tip would fit almost all of your criteria except for beacon. In fact, the PD35 is what I carry in my own car...along with a Zebralight H53fc headlamp (which does have a beacon mode, along with a nice neutral color tint).

Hope this helps!

- FITP

 

[adamlau]

We have two NOCO GB70 for such purposes. The cool LED is bright enough for a roadside tire change, has multiple modes and floods well with long runtimes owing to its intended purpose as a lithium-powered jump starter.

 

[Tasky]

In keeping with the above advice - I believe the Fenix HM61R ticks most of the boxes.
For work I have their LD15R, which is similar but I really should have bought the HM61R instead! The right-angle aspect takes a few moments to get used to, but makes a lot of sense and is superior in more situations than you'd expect.

Here are some salient deets:

1200 lumens down to 400/150/50 and 5 lumen levels. 50 is probably what you'd need most, at which it runs for up to 38 hours.
1200lm shines out to about 150m and runs for 2hrs, but that is with the step-down. Spill is about 160º spread, I believe...
Directly accessible RED beacon modes for low, high and flash - Flash is only 5 lumens, but that works fine around traffic (I use mine a fair bit for such things).
Pocket clip.
Easily removable headband - Extremely useful in emergencies, and being optional is a further bonus.
Takes an 18650, but can use CR123.
Has magnetic charging off a USB cable too, and if your car does not have USB you can use a 12v Hella adapter.
Magnetic tail cap - That marketing shot showing it stuck on the side of a car while changing a tyre is something I've actually done.
IP68 rated - Because poo always hits the fan when it's hammering down.


Does not have a strobe.
Does not have a lanyard, but you can clip/loop/tie/thread on a bit of paracord to suit wrist/neck/hanging carry.
Is not programmable.
Is not single output.
No tail switch.

 

[wayben]

Lots of good advice above. I can only tell you what I use. To me CR123 batteries are the way to go, long shelf life and work well in cold temps, just what you need for a light that won't be used much and sits in a vehicle that sits in the weather. I have a Surefire G2X in all my vehicles. Reliable and simple to use. Check them out.

 

[Poppy]

Fenix makes good lights, and I'm sure you can select one with will fit your needs.
One thing that in my mind is particularly important for a vehicle light is that it is fitted with a RED traffic wand.
Fenix makes wands for many of their lights, so I strongly suggest that you get one that they make a wand for.

You mentioned need for a light at accidents. A wand will help you to ward oncoming traffic away, out of the lane of traffic.

I have a number of lights in my car, and keep a 2AA Rayovac with a wand in a vinyl bag attached to my cupholder for instant access.

 

[Buck91]

Fenix would be great, I like 2aa for emergency lights as they can be stored with L91 lithium's but still use common AA batteries of you need to pick that up at Bubba's gas n go. There are tons of options to check out though. For 2AA check out fenix, nitecore and four sevens. Also the "lowly" mini maglite is still quite a solid choice with great output and runtime from the factory LED.

I would strongly consider a headlamp as they make car work just so much easier. Something like the thrunite th20 or acebeam h40 would run nicely off a single L91, nimh or alkaline AA.

As others have mentioned, the surefire G2X would be solid as well. Bright, durable and versatile. The CR123 cells are a great power source but harder to find and certainly more expensive. I carried a yellow G2 incan as my glovebox light for years and it served VERY well.

 

[adamlau]

We have two NOCO GB70 for such purposes. The cool LED is bright enough for a roadside tire change, has multiple modes and floods well with long runtimes owing to its intended purpose as a lithium-powered jump starter.

Business end of the GB70. The device is essentially a battery pack with USB 2.1A power bank support, jump starting capability and an LED end with multiple brightness levels, SOS and strobe. Charge from USB or 12V DC (including solar).