Emisar D2

3_gun

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Jun 27, 2021
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Got my order in today for the newest Hank-light. It's a 14500, right angle, duel single LED, duel channel with separate optics for each channel. I went with a W1 + spot optic on C1 & 519a domed 5700k + flood optic on 2. My biggest surprise so far was a head band wasn't offered as an add-on along with the pocket clip & magnetic tailcap. Counting the days already.

 

defloyd77

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Been waiting for this release for a while.

I'm stuck on what to get under my channel 2's floody optic, a dedomed 4500K 519A or a domed 3500K. The domed 3500K would be better suited for a floody beam, but the beam on the DD 4500K is hard to resist.
 

3_gun

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The button is a single, back lit button on the top of the light. You can, depending on how you set up your light, run both channels together or Ch1 or Ch2 as a single LED, based on your needs
 

3_gun

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Got my light .. man it is a small form for so much light. For my needs I got the C1/C2 set up right first try. Mainly because I haven't on other duel channel lights. I did find the D2 to be very picky about taking "clicks" when trying to program/set-up my light. It was not a one handed process like bigger lights. I had to set the light tail-cap down on a solid base, use one hand to hold the light & the other to "click". The pacing of the "clicks" needed to be slower than what I've found as normal on other Anduril lights. So it took a few more tries to get it done but it is set-up & working well. It does warm up quickly at higher levels .. not a surprise given the lack of mass. My use is normally one or the other channel but even then the lack of mass is a factor in how long you can run higher levels. Plus you REALLY need to set the temp on the light as mine was off by 5d/C as delivered. It really is small, the only 14500 light I have that is smaller is a Wurkkos TS10 but the D2 has better flood/throw with 2 lens & 2 LEDs to match. Another winner from Hank in my book
 

newts

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Aug 11, 2023
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I got my first one and loved the light but I was disappointed in the firmware. I got channel 1 with a warm white emitter and channel 2 with a deep red. The idea is to have a EDC light in my pocket for every day use with red for preserving night vision and also to have it as a backup light for biking. I could use it in blinking mode for front or rear. I was hoping this would be an improvement in features over the Perun 2 I was using.
Well Anduril 2 is a pig in a poke and mostly seems geared towards tint fading which in a dual emitter light like this doesn't make sense. There was no way to deterministically turn on only the red emitter from off. If you want to save your night vision you don't want to turn on white and then change modes. The overall firmware is super complicated to use. It seems even the people who use it find it difficult and impossible without the map.
Anyway, it is Open Source so I started a new repo on github and changed some commands so I can use either emitter as desired and control power. I also wanted a simple bike mode that isn't dumb like the one it has that is lumped in with a half dozen other various blinky modes. That part isn't completed yet. Also on the list to complete is to use the built in RGB in a red only "map mode". That way you could still get some night vision feature without a red second emitter. My second D2 has a UV second emitter.
When I get back to this and get my other features working I will make a more formal announcement but in the meantime the hex is here with the source code https://github.com/newts/noobnoob
 

jon_slider

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Mar 31, 2015
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mostly seems geared towards tint fading which in a dual emitter light like this doesn't make sense. There was no way to deterministically turn on only the red emitter from off.
congrats on your new two color D2
I agree the tint mixing is not the right option for dual color.
We need to enable dual channel switching, instead of tint mixing.

I was able to change mine to behave as dual channel, instead of tint mixing. I have a dedomed 519a 4500K on channel 1, and a deep red on channel 2. I can now change easily from white to red, and if I turn off in Red, it will turn back on in Red.. the change I made is shown in this chart, in the box titled Misc Config, you will see I put a green oval over the 2C option:
jaGqVXc.png

it was not necessary to build a new hex file in order to implement all the changes shown by my green ovals.

I also find the Red mode very convenient for preserving melatonin, so I can get back to sleep after using the red light to walk to the bathroom in the middle of the night.

Here is my D2 album, it has a lot of info in the photo captions.

> a head band wasn't offered as an add-on

I bought one from Spicy3D and recommend it highly:
PXL_20230412_173143967.MP.jpg
 
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newts

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congrats on your new two color D2
I agree the tint mixing is not the right option for dual color.
We need to enable dual channel switching, instead of tint mixing.

I was able to change mine to behave as dual channel, instead of tint mixing. I have a dedomed 519a 4500K on channel 1, and a deep red on channel 2. I can now change easily from white to red, and if I turn off in Red, it will turn back on in Red.. the change I made is shown in this chart, in the box titled Misc Config, you will see I put a green oval over the 2C option:
d80wQMl.png

it was not necessary to build a new hex file in order to implement all the changes shown by my green ovals.

I also find the Red mode very convenient for preserving melatonin, so I can get back to sleep after using the red light to walk to the bathroom in the middle of the night.

Here is my D2 album, it has a lot of info in the photo captions.
Cool. Thanks for the info!

Yes much of it can be done navigating through the map but again, if you don't know what mode you last had it in you don't know what mode it will turn on in. With noob noob I have 1C on white, 2C on red. 1H low white, 2H low red. 3H when on will still toggle between. I forgot what I used to bring the bike mode on but the current bike mode is not never good. I am trying to get it so you can use either channel, and then depending on the brightness it will pulse 100% or 0% to get noticed. that we you can have it white to see but still pulse off for visibility or the red can be mostly off and then pulse high.
I also don't want to have to navigate through the entire map to access the typical EDC functions I want.
 

jon_slider

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Mar 31, 2015
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fwiw using the Opple 3 to measure flicker, the Emisar D2 has flatter output regulation and lower Flicker Index than the Zebralight H53Fc N:

bxEh8NV.jpeg


Im really enjoying the D2, I especially like that it uses the Anduril UI.. I tried a Zebralight recently and found the UI extremely frustrating.
 

scalpel_ninja

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Sep 16, 2020
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…I tried a Zebralight recently and found the UI extremely frustrating.
Thanks for the testing Jon; I also tried to give Zebralight another try recently and really can't make sense of the UI. I've played with the programming and set levels accordingly without issue, but it just sits on my desk because of the UI.
 

jon_slider

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I've played with the programming and set levels accordingly without issue
I spent over 4 hours immersing myself in the Zebralight programming.

Although I was able to change the mode sequence, an unintended consequence was that the ramping cycle became Low, High, Medium. I probably did something wrong, but that was a total dealbreaker. I resold the light immediately.

Another regulated light that came up on my radar is the Skilhunt H150, but from reading about the UI (which seems somewhat similar to Zebra's), I have not bought one.

I did like the Zebra SC64 LE host, and would buy it again, IF it becomes available with a Regulated Anduril driver ;-)

Im spoiled by my experience w the HDS Rotary UI, as well as the Jetbeam Rotary UI. For me, Anduril is the next best thing.

Plus the D2 can be ordered with a custom combination of LEDs including 519a, Plus a second channel, in my case Deep Red. Its basically two lights in one..
 

newts

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fwiw using the Opple 3 to measure flicker, the Emisar D2 has flatter output regulation and lower Flicker Index than the Zebralight H53Fc N:

bxEh8NV.jpeg


Im really enjoying the D2, I especially like that it uses the Anduril UI.. I tried a Zebralight recently and found the UI extremely frustrating.

Good to know. Also good to know about that meter. I was looking for some kind of meter and this is cheap enough to just go for it and looks great for hobby use. Thanks!
 

jon_slider

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good to know about that meter.
fwiw the Opple 3 is sold out. You can get the Opple 4 here, but it does not produce identical results as the Opple 3, specifically on the Tint duv, but the flicker results are pretty similar. Still useful for comparing your own lights to each other, but may not match other peoples instruments exactly.
 

newts

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fwiw the Opple 3 is sold out. You can get the Opple 4 here, but it does not produce identical results as the Opple 3, specifically on the Tint duv, but the flicker results are pretty similar. Still useful for comparing your own lights to each other, but may not match other peoples instruments exactly.

thanks yeh I ordered the 4. And yes, I don't expect NIST calibrated results but something to compare my and friends' lights.

jv
 

jon_slider

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thanks yeh I ordered the 4. And yes, I don't expect NIST calibrated results but something to compare my and friends' lights.

jv
good attitude
fwiw, Im finding the Opple results vary a lot when testing sublumen outputs, in a dark room.. I would say sublumen results are unreliable.

here is an example of two wildly different results from my D2 on its lowest output, which measures 0.2 lumens on my light meter. The top reading was with the light touching the Opple sensor, the bottom reading was at about 1/2" distance away.

1.png

my takeaway is that higher outputs such as 20 or 50 lumens give more repeatable results
 

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