Emisar D3AA opinions?

Thoughts?
Totally depends on your personal preference. imo 3000K is nice in full darkness, but I dont use it if there is any ambient light. The blue light content of 3000K is very low, so it is more conducive to relaxing and getting ready to go to sleep as it does not deplete the sleep hormone Melatonin

you can email hank to change your LED choice (include your order number)
Hank Wang <[email protected]>;

I personally prefer not to go lower than DeDomed 4500K, which becomes 3400K, because it stands out as slighly "whiter" (cooler), than my 3000K home lighting. While still being "warm enough", not to be glaring nor blueish in full darkness.

my All Time favorite is sw45k when I want a light without warmth, that I can use during the day.. But I dont usually use it in the evening when Im accustomed to my house lighting. And I usually dont use it in full darkness, when Im walking to the toilet in the middle of the night and want to get back to sleep.

otoh, sw45k has enough blue light content to help keep me awake at night, if Im performing tasks for which I want to remain alert.

Your choice of Color Temperature will depend on whether your priority is to preserve the dark adaptation hormone Rhodopsin, in which case 3000K is better than 4500K.. or as in my case, you could choose 3400K (DeDomed 4500K 519a), because it produces slightly more realistic colors than 3000K, which I find a bit too warm when it comes to producing realistic skin tones.

Good luck w your decisions ;-)
in the end, only you can decide, by buying and trying for yourself, in your own environment(s)

here is DD 4500K and sw45k:
63495313b01a4ffdc40b0a609f4de3e6ca3dfd37.jpeg


The other suggestions I have specific to the D3AA are
1. Choose the Flat switch Bezel, not raised
2. Choose the Amber Switch button light, not RGB
3. Choose a tailmagnet if your light is Aluminum, (it is too weak for a TiCu model, which I find too heavy anyway.. I sold the one in the photo)
4. Stay with the stock optic, I do not care for the beam quality from the more throwy option.
 
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Thanks for the response. I think I will change it. I ordered mine through Jackson and he is on vacation right now so, I know it has not been built yet.

I have already this light at 2700K that I use by the bed for sleep enhancement which is quite warm.

IMG_7171.jpeg
 
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fwiw
Jackson does not like DeDomed 519a, because they are not as nicely finished as his preferred FFL LEDs. Dedoming 519a sometimes leaves some glue residue around the edges of the led chip (beyond the phosphor) where the dome was attached.

Removing any glue residue around the perimeter adds a fiddly step to his production sequence. Jackson is a master of his craft, and he values neat and cleanly finished surfaces.

I otoh I cant stand the FFL LEDs.. The 3700K 351a have been shipping with tint I do not like, that is above the BBL (greenish, not rosy). The 4000K FFL that he likes to promote for being Rosy are imo way Too Rosy.

For me, the DeDomed 4500K 519a is the Goldilocks tint… "just right".

I have tried the 2700K 519a that you have, and for me, it is yellower than I prefer. I dont like any 519a with dome On, I always end up dedoming them.. your Tint preferences may vary ;-)
 
fwiw
Jackson does not like DeDomed 519a, because they are not as nicely finished as his preferred FFL LEDs. Dedoming 519a sometimes leaves some glue residue around the edges of the led chip (beyond the phosphor) where the dome was attached.

Removing any glue residue around the perimeter adds a fiddly step to his production sequence. Jackson is a master of his craft, and he values neat and cleanly finished surfaces.

I otoh I cant stand the FFL LEDs.. The 3700K 351a have been shipping with tint I do not like, that is above the BBL (greenish, not rosy). The 4000K FFL that he likes to promote for being Rosy are imo way Too Rosy.

For me, the DeDomed 4500K 519a is the Goldilocks tint… "just right".

I have tried the 2700K 519a that you have, and for me, it is yellower than I prefer. I dont like any 519a with dome On, I always end up dedoming them.. your Tint preferences may vary ;-)
I'm worried about my choice of the ffl 4000k I've chosen for Jackson to put into my d3aa. My current favourite tint is a dedomed D4K with nichia 519 5700k. I told Jackson this and he assured me the 4000k ffl emitter would be a good option and I would love it. But you're saying they are too rosy/ not clean warm white? Maybe I should just stick with what I know.
 
you're saying they are too rosy/ not clean warm white?
sorry if my opinion made you worry about a light in transit that you have not seen for yourself yet..

better to just wait to see for yourself

I look forward to your impressions..

 
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sorry if my opinion made you worry about a light in transit that you have not seen for yourself yet..

better to just wait to see for yourself

I look forward to your impressions..


Oh no it's not been built yet, I originally asked for nichia but he suggested the ffl emitter. Now's the chance I can ask for it be nichia
 
he suggested the ffl emitter

Tint is a matter of personal preference. The only way to really know what You like, is to buy and try.

If you dont like the FFL, it will resell easily on Reddit where Jackson has a huge fan base of FFL lovers.

I hope you enjoy whatever you get. ;-)
 
How does the D3AA Ti stack up against Wurkkos TS10 Ti or Convoy T3 Ti or Lumintop Tool AA Ti?
I am familiar with Emisar lights, but is there any feature that makes the D3AA Ti worth the extra cost? The side switch is being considered though.

Got a Christmas TS10 on the way, as a random purchase along with 2 more FC11C's, but I am looking at a pair of Convoy T3 Titanium.
Math doesn't check out for 2x D3AA Ti for the limited use that they will see - unless there are arguments?
Note that these ones be bashed around with keys and whatnot in my pockets all day. Hence the desire for a Titanium light.

Typically not a fan of the 14500 form factor, but I am looking for some replacement lights for my Nitecore Tip SS's that I keep on my keyrings.
I would prefer having something with a replaceable (and rechargeable) battery over built-in, and 14500 / AA is probably the best for output and duration.
 
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How does the D3AA Ti stack up against Wurkkos TS10 Ti
D3AA can use AA, TS10 can not use AA. Both can use LiIon

I prefer the more symmetrical form factor of the TS10, it has no sharp corners, and I like a tailswitch better than sideswitch. TS10 weighs less and is smaller (also true for the TiCu variants):

the D3AA fins are a bit sharp and the switch pedestal has some sharp corners.
DOVOm0G.jpeg

Convoy T3 is bigger than TS10 and D3AA

D3AA offers more LED options than TS10. D3AA driver is more efficient, has a lower flicker index with NoPWM, and has regulated output up to 900 lumens. TS10 has regulated output only below 100 lumens

Both use Anduril, Both have front Aux. I carry and use a TS10 daily. I do not carry my D3AA.

I dont care as much about efficiency or AA capability, the TS10 is the Miata of flashlights.. the design is very aesthetically balanced, and takes up the least room in my pocket. It also has a very comfortable tailcap shape, I often hold my light in my mouth. It is also very comfortable to use in cigar grip.

Here is the Flicker Index of 0.0040 for the D3AA:
zhdZ576.png


and Flicker Index 0.6090 for the TS10, which uses PWM (close to 100% modulation depth):
Screen Shot 2025-01-12 at 5.24.48 PM.png


Regarding Flicker index (which is based on modulation depth and frequency):
Numbers below 0.0500 are considered better. They seem have no negative biological effects (no migraines), on sensitive office workers exposed to artificial ambient light for long periods.
 
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D3AA can use AA, TS10 can not use AA. Both can use LiIon

I prefer the more symmetrical form factor of the TS10, it has no sharp corners, and I like a tailswitch better than sideswitch. TS10 weighs less and is smaller (also true for the TiCu variants):

the D3AA fins are a bit sharp and the switch pedestal has some sharp corners.
View attachment 72881
Convoy T3 is bigger than TS10 and D3AA

D3AA offers more LED options than TS10. D3AA driver is more efficient, has a lower flicker index with NoPWM, and has regulated output up to 900 lumens. TS10 has regulated output only below 100 lumens

Both use Anduril, Both have front Aux. I carry and use a TS10 daily. I do not carry my D3AA.
Thank you very much, this answered everything I asked, and more

AA compatibility would be a nice to have, but is no requirement. Auxiliary RGB would be a fun feature, but is definitely no requirement.
Flicker-free at low output however (it will likely spend most of its life below 100 Lumen) is a requirement, but tint, emitter, max output or beam pattern is not important for this.

Weight and size (compared to my Nitecore Tip SS) is something I will have to find out. It will be on a keyring for easiest access, but I always have other lights with me if I need light for anything other than finding the ignition key hole in pitch darkness.

Will do some testing with the Christmas TS10 already on the way, though I really don't want to scratch the red paint on that.
I am honestly looking at 2x Convoy T3 Ti simply for being the lowest price, but I'll receive the TS10 first, and take it from there.

Thanks again!
 
The only thing I don't like about the TS10 is that it's 14500 only, but it's not a deal breaker. I agree with Jon that the form factor of the TS10 is excellent. I'm surprised they aren't more popular.
 
consider a Rovyvon, here is a Titanium model
I have looked at that exact model, and had decided to go for 2 of them. But when I went to place the order, it first said "You've got free shipping on this order!" in the cart, but when I continued to payment it said "Shipping is 45 USD". They have "free postage shipping over $99.95" (with no displayed caveats) on the product page too.

I am not supporting that kind of false advertising.
 
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