Emisar D4vn V2 - Smallest 18650 Quad R

Wurkkos

AmericanDissent

Enlightened
Joined
Feb 2, 2018
Messages
200
Awesome! Wife and I are really excited about these. She has a difficult time making decisions, and aux LED color is never an easy one for her. "oooooh that's pretty!".... "but that's pretty, too!" This light solves that problem lol
 
Joined
Aug 15, 2015
Messages
628
Is W1 an option? If it’s possible to get 55k lux from 4xW1 LEDs, count me in! W1 should mean less heat, longer run time, better throw. I’m here for it!
 
Joined
Aug 15, 2015
Messages
628
FW3A vs D4 V2 beamshot GIF comparisons in W1 and W2 variants would be awesome... just sayin haha. I know you’re busy.

Thanks for everything Vinh! Neat little light this one will be, that’s for sure!
 

creamo

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jul 5, 2019
Messages
2
Can you give the model # of what you call the "stock" and "throwy" optics?
Maybe I am mistaken but I thought the stock optic (10622) was more throwy than the optional frosted 10623.
 

anethema

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Mar 21, 2010
Messages
96
I've been out of the loop for a while. What LEDs are white1 or white2? I saw the factory link and they seem to have a very bright SST-20 with high CRI which seemed very interesting.

How do the given options compare to this?

Also I see you have an optics swap, have you tried dedoming for yet more throw?

Might be interested in at least 2 of these. Thanks!
 

dotCPF

Flashlight Enthusiast
CPF Supporter
Joined
Dec 20, 2018
Messages
1,586
Location
New Angleland
They are great emitters for throw as they have very small surface area but very high surface brightness. More formally known as OSRAM CSLNM1.TG 1mm, CSLPM1.TG 2mm, CULNM1.TG 1mm. Colloquially often "White Flats", or the White 1mm^2 and White 2mm^2.

They are a good bit different than the HCRI SST emitters. They are betwwen 5500K and 6500K, and about 70 CRI IIRC. The White 1 is about just under twice as throwy while being roughly the same output. The White 2 is about 1.5x as throwy, but higher output by about 25%.

The white flats are already domeless.
 

anethema

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Mar 21, 2010
Messages
96
Interesting. I saw Vinh adding white1 also. Hm gotta decide which I need.

I currently use a LD60vn as my main bigger light, but I'm thinking of replacing it with this guy and just EDCing it. Near 4k lumens when I need them for a short time, near the same throw, but much smaller for the low brightness every day use.

My current batteries are INR LGs rated for ten amps, is this enough?
 

Patriot

Flashaholic
Joined
Feb 13, 2007
Messages
11,213
Location
Arizona
I currently use a LD60vn as my main bigger light, but I'm thinking of replacing it with this guy and just EDCing it.

My current batteries are INR LGs rated for ten amps, is this enough?

I think the D4 is a great little light. The only problem that I run into occasionally is that when I EDC, it turns on in my pocket. Because of this, I think the FW3 makes a better EDC light and it has softer edges.

10A is max for the W1 and W2 and 219b. Any unprotected cell is fine with other LEDs.
 

vinhnguyen54

Flashaholic
CPFBA
Joined
Sep 14, 2010
Messages
25,190
:)

I7oR0Xg.jpg

HCfdTa9.jpg

ousDIIe.jpg

eh2SUXA.jpg
 

Patriot

Flashaholic
Joined
Feb 13, 2007
Messages
11,213
Location
Arizona
Those light blue's can be really hard to nail without going too hot and washing out the color... and there's a lot of light blue on that light. I sure like it but I don't even have a FW3T yet...:broke:

btw, the light colored switch is a nice touch as well as the cross-hatched pattered ACH clip. There's a lot of custom touches on this light to really appreciate. Very nice work, Vinh. :drool:
 

Fireclaw18

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 16, 2011
Messages
2,398
I think the D4 is a great little light. The only problem that I run into occasionally is that when I EDC, it turns on in my pocket.
Fortunately, both Anduril and Emisar have updated features to help keep your pocket safe! ... it's much safer to EDC a D4v2 than it is an original model D4.

With accidental pocket activation, what usually happens is the button gets pressed and held down in the pocket. In the original D4 this would cause the light to ramp up to turbo and stay there. This was known to burn holes in pockets. I had this happen twice myself.

(1) Anduril allows the ramp ceiling to be manually set at a lower level than turbo. I set mine to a level just below where pocket damage would occur. The only way to get to turbo is to double-click when the light is on.... highly unlikely to accidentally happen in the pocket.

(2) Toykeeper added extra pocket protection in the latest revision of Anduril
. If you hold the button down to ramp all the way up and continue holding it down, the UI will hold for a few seconds then reverse the ramp down to minimum and then activate lockout. I confirm that this latest revision came stock in my D4v2 Ti. But my recently purchased Lumintop EDC18 (presumably using the same version of Anduril as the FW3A), does not have this feature. Lumintop appears to be using an older revision of Anduril.

(3) The D4v2 is available with an optional raised button-boot retaining ring. The taller ring surrounds the button and greatly reduces the chances of accidental pocket activation.

I carry my EDC loose in my pocket and have had fewer accidental pocket activations with my D4v2 lights than with my FW3 series lights. Most of the switches in the FW3 series lights seem to require very little pressure.
 

Patriot

Flashaholic
Joined
Feb 13, 2007
Messages
11,213
Location
Arizona
Great information Fireclaw. For whatever reason, my stock FW3 doesn't seem to activate when I don't want it to. The D4v2's updated UI is a nice addition, however and pretty thoughtfully done. It only ramps back down and locks out if you continue to hold the switch uninterrupted, which is pretty smart.
 
Top