Emisar Dw3AA dual fuel Anduril Headlamp now available

[jon_slider]

The Dw3AA is a right angle light that just came out. I ordered a Red one with DeDomed 4500K 519a. With tailcap magnet plus a 10511 optic, and pocket clip. I chose the Amber switch button.

The Dw3AA has regulated output and NoPWM. It uses The Most Advanced driver design of any AA/14500 light available. It is Very Efficient.

Battery is not included, the light works with both Flat Top and Button Top LiIon, plus AA and Eneloop.

I suggest buying the Olight Perun Mini Headband, very inexpensive and easy to attach and remove the light.

 

[knucklegary]

I see Hank now offers no switch backlight with black rubber boot. Warm white would be my choice, although I've never seen one in person. What do you suggest?

 

[jon_slider]

I have not tried Warm White, but it seems like a good choice.

I have Amber switch button LEDs on my D3AA and D2. I like that it is very dim, only visible in the dark. I expect the Warm White is slightly brighter.

I also tried an RGB switch. I did not like it, because it turns Off when the light turns On.

The benefit of the Single Color switch Aux, is that they Always turn ON when the light turns ON. I like this because it lets me see the switch button, instead of having to find it only by feel.

Although, it is easy to find the switch button by feel, whether it is lit or not.

 

[AMD64Brunette]

Oh great.. more temptation.

I already own a Zebralight H54 Fc N.

This Dw3AA would be the perfect match to my D3AA.

 

[jon_slider]

I already own a Zebralight

I do too ;-).. imo it has now been superseded ;-)

I prefer the features of the Dw3AA including:
Anduril UI
tailmagnet option,
Dual Fuel capability,
Aux LEDs.
Choice of main LEDs
Lower price

 

[lampeDépêche]

I do too ;-).. imo it has now been superseded ;-)

Them's fightin' words! But I see what you mean. Esp. since we agree that for a lot of headlamp work, i.e. at arm's length, the larger blobby hotspot of an optic is just as good or better than the focused hotspot of a reflector. So, the H53/H54 loses that advantage when used for headlamp purposes.
The dual fuel is a big advantage to Emisar. I wish ZL had not phased that out.
Tell me about low modes -- what is the lowest that Anduril goes? I had thought it was only 1%. Does it offer fractions of a percent?
Low price is obviously an advantage to Emisar, esp. now that the market is tanking and the economy is headed into the crapper.

I prefer the features of the Dw3AA including:
Anduril UI
tailmagnet option,
Dual Fuel capability,
Aux LEDs.
Choice of main LEDs
Lower price

 

[jon_slider]

Tell me about low modes

Dw3AA uses the same driver as D3AA.

The D3AA lowest mode is so low I cant even tell the light is On during the day.

D3AA lowest mode is as low as on the Zebra, <0.01 lumens.

The Zebra has the advantage of longer runtime at outputs below 10 lumens. Above that, the D3AA (over 90% efficiency) is More Efficient than the Zebra (about 70% efficiency).

 

[lampeDépêche]

Dw3AA uses the same driver as D3AA.

The D3AA lowest mode is so low I cant even tell the light is On during the day.

D3AA lowest mode is as low as on the Zebra, <0.01 lumens.

The Zebra has the advantage of longer runtime at outputs below 10 lumens. Above that, the D3AA (over 90% efficiency) is More Efficient than the Zebra (about 70% efficiency).

Thanks! I did not know all of that. Esp. about better Anduril efficiency -- significantly better -- at medium and high outputs.

 

[lampeDépêche]

Sigh... Okay, now I'm thinking that I need to get one of these. Curse you, Jon Slider!
What LED combo would you get if you were less worried about max lumen output, wanted a medium temp (4000-5000), decent CRI, and wanted it to be punchy, i.e. a better thrower?

Also let me note, in favor of the ZLH53, that the Emisar is considerably longer, 91mm vs. 75mm, and generally bulkier and heavier (48g vs. 31g).

 

[jon_slider]

What LED combo would you get if you were less worried about max lumen output, wanted a medium temp (4000-5000), decent CRI, and wanted it to be punchy, i.e. a better thrower?

imo the 519a 5000K is one of the best options with Great CRI. Take note of how you feel about the 4000K 519a in your Zebra, and whether you would welcome a slightly cooler beam (looks closer to daylight).

You can also consider the 4500K 519a, but imo the 5000K is better.

The 519a has a relatively wide Dome. It is not a throwy LED. To gain throw, I recommend you use the 10507 optic.

honorable mention to the Nichia 219b 4500K sw45k LED option. I personally like its more rosy tint (I like tint below the BBL), better than the slightly greenish tint (above the BBL) of the 519a lineup.

For me, the sw45k would be the first choice. It is an older design and produces less lumens than the 519a, but that does not matter to me. I mostly use my lights at indoor distances and at less than 200 lumens.. I dont use High outputs that are Unsustainable.. The sustainable output for the D3AA is about 250 lumens, with High CRI.

about beam profiles, given your appreciation for focused hotspots, here is why I recommend you buy the optional Carclo 10507

the Dw3AA uses a frosted medium spot Carclo 10508 by default. This is a very floody optic. I think it is unnecessarily floody.

there are two optional additional optics:
1. the frosted narrow spot 10511, which is also floody (wider than a TS10). It comes by default on my D3AA and I like using it. It diffuses very well to provide even brightness across the beam at indoor distances.

2. The clear narrow spot 10507 is throwy. It focuses the beam enought to at least double the throw. At the expense of some artifacts around the outer perimeter of the beam, which are not objectionable outdoors. otoh, indoors, or at indoor distances outdoors, I prefer the 10511 optic.

It is not difficult to change optics, just requires a little care to insure the legs are positioned properly in their locator holes, so as to avoid having the optic spin and damage the LEDs, when tightening the bezel.

The bezel is Not glued, it is not difficult to remove it, without tools, as it is only hand tight.

Also let me note, in favor of the ZLH53, that the Emisar is considerably longer, 91mm vs. 75mm, and generally bulkier and heavier (48g vs. 31g).

Agree completely.. the H53 is a very nice Small package.

Im unpleasantly suprised the Dw3AA weight is 10 grams heavier than the D3AA.. I hope its a typo ;-)

I ordered a Dw3AA today. I will confirm actual weight when I receive the light (maybe 2 weeks).

fwiw, here is the carry weight with Eneloop in the Zebra and LiIon on the D3AA, there is only a 1 gram difference:

(14500 is 7 grams lighter than Eneloop)

 

[lampeDépêche]

For me, the sw45k would be the first choice.....

....given your appreciation for focused hotspots, here is why I recommend you buy the optional Carclo 10507

(14500 is 7 grams lighter than Eneloop)

Jon, I'm hugely grateful to you for taking the time to give me all of that advice. I think I've got it.
By the way -- the published stats make the DW3AA (i.e. the right-angled headlamp version) both longer and heavier than the D3AA (the straight version): length 91mm vs. 78mm, weight 48g vs 38g. It does seem strange that the right-angle version would be that much longer and heavier. On the ZL side, the right angle version and the straight version are almost exactly the same specs, with the right-angle being if anything slightly shorter.

 

[jon_slider]

the right-angle being if anything slightly shorter

agree,

the H5x is smaller in every way than the SC5x. Shorter, narrower body, smaller head, And 9 grams lighter than the SC5x..

The H5x is an exceptionally nice little package, it also has imo a smoother overall handfeel than the SC5x. Either the pointed end of the SC5x clip is under my finger when I press the switch, or if I remove the clip, I have to live with the sharp corners of the clip pedestal. The H53x otoh, is smooth all over without the clip, and even w the clip, its not a pressure point when using the switch.

 

[Random Dan]

Thanks for the heads up! Just ordered one with 219b 4500K and an extra 10511. I have high hopes that this will be my new favorite lightweight headlamp

 

[dc38]

I have not tried Warm White, but it seems like a good choice.

I have Amber switch button LEDs on my D3AA and D2. I like that it is very dim, only visible in the dark. I expect the Warm White is slightly brighter.

I also tried an RGB switch. I did not like it, because it turns Off when the light turns On.

The benefit of the Single Color switch Aux, is that they Always turn ON when the light turns ON. I like this because it lets me see the switch button, instead of having to find it only by feel.

Although, it is easy to find the switch button by feel, whether it is lit or not.

The only light I've ever ordered from Hank was the M43 meteor, the first iteration which worked with protected cells. I regret selling it, but what's past is past...

So on to my question, are the aux lights (the battery backlight I guess) always on unless manual lockout?

 

[knucklegary]

No need to manually lockout. With Anduril 2 you can disable the auxiliary lights, it's fairly easy done. Electronic lockout is even easier. You can always unscrew the tailcap during transport for extra safety, as I do. I'm old school and just don't trust electronic switches.

 

[jon_slider]

are the aux lights.. always on

not if you dont want them to be

look at the red box I added to this chart for you:

 

[LowFlux]

You can program Anduril 2 to display auxiliary lights when off, or when locked out; or you can disable auxiliary on off and/or lockout mode too. My personal preference is low auxiliary lights when off (red or green), no lights when locked out.

Both of the newer Anduril 2 UIs I've received have come with the battery check feature enabled. I originally disabled the battery check feature but it's kind of nice at shutoff get a quick glance as to how much battery remains - I ended up restoring the feature. From @jon_slider diagram it's in the battery check settings, 7H, program after the 2nd flash.

 

[dc38]

not if you dont want them to be

look at the red box I added to this chart for you:
View attachment 75590

Hold on...you get ALL the colors besides amber/warm white and cool white? Or do you have to specifically get the rgb switch?

P.s. no pressure to answer, but I'd like to get my order in sooner rather than later. ..

 

[lampeDépêche]

I am going to wait to order this until I get more reports about the real length and weight. The Emisar site lists it as length 91mm long, and 48g in weight. That is much longer and heavier than the ZL AA format (78mm long and 38g), and almost as long as a ZL H600, which is only 97mm long and 39g.
If I’m going to pocket something about as big as a ZL 18650- format, then I’d rather have the output and runtime of an 18650 light, not a AA format light.
So, I’m going to wait till reviews come back and see if that’s just a typo on their website right now.

 

[dc38]

I am going to wait to order this until I get more reports about the real length and weight. The Emisar site lists it as length 91mm long, and 48g in weight. That is much longer and heavier than the ZL AA format (78mm long and 38g), and almost as long as a ZL H600, which is only 97mm long and 39g.
If I'm going to pocket something about as big as a ZL 18650- format, then I'd rather have the output and runtime of an 18650 light, not a AA format light.
So, I'm going to wait till reviews come back and see if that's just a typo on their website right now.

Yeah, not to mention it's a full centimeter and change longer than the d3aa lol...where's all that extra length come from?

Also, I did a quick picture comparison, if the tailcaps are scaled to the same size, then the angle light is indeed taller by at least a whole centimeter.