Emisar Dw3AA dual fuel Anduril Headlamp now available

[jon_slider]

ALL the colors besides amber/warm white and cool white? Or do you have to specifically get the rgb switch?

you asked if the Aux lights are always on
to me Aux lights are the front facing RGB LEDs, so thats how I answered.

specific to the Switch LEDs, you can choose a Single Color such as Amber. This will Always come ON when the main LEDs come on. But you Can turn them off while the light is off.

If instead of a single color switch, you choose an RGB swich, they Always turn Off when the main LEDs turn On. When main LEDs are Off, the RGB switch can be turned off if you like.

I prefer the color and function of Amber Switch LEDs, not RGB Switch LEDs.

Because for my nightstand application, I set the front Aux to Low Red. These are barely visible in daylight, but are excellent in the dark. I like the Amber switch because it is particularly low brightness, similar to the Red Aux in having Low Intensity.

 

[dc38]

you asked if the Aux lights are always on
to me Aux lights are the front facing RGB LEDs, so thats how I answered

specific to the Switch lights, you can choose a Single Color such as Amber. This will Always come ON when the main LEDs come on. But you Can turn them off while the light is off.

If instead of a single color switch, you choose an RGB swich, they Always turn Off when the main LEDs turn On. When main LEDs are Off, the RGB switch can be turned off if you like.

I prefer the color and function of Amber Switch LEDs, not RGB Switch LEDs.

Ahhh I see, so the front Aux lights, which are separate from the switch light, already have the rainbow programmed/built into them, up to me to select the color, but the switch color is fixed to whatever I choose?

 

[Random Dan]

Yeah, not to mention it's a full centimeter and change longer than the d3aa lol...where's all that extra length come from?

Also, I did a quick picture comparison, if the tailcaps are scaled to the same size, then the angle light is indeed taller by at least a whole centimeter.

The optic is wider than it is long, and it has to be fully in front of the battery

 

[jon_slider]

yes, the front Aux are RGB,
and you can set them to any color display you want, Red, Green, or Blue, or combinations of those.

yes you can choose single color LEDs for the Switch

or, you can choose RGB switch LEDs, which will mirror the selected color of the front facing RGB Aux

 

[dc38]

The optic is wider than it is long, and it has to be fully in front of the battery

Checks out, lol. In retrospect, it was a "duh, you're a dumbass dc38". Thanks for the explanation!

 

[dc38]

yes, the front Aux are RGB,
and you can set them to any color display you want, Red, Green, or Blue, or combinations of those.

yes you can choose single color LEDs for the Switch

or, you can choose RGB switch LEDs, which will mirror the front facing RGB Aux

Sold, but for the older d3 model lol. The d3 has awesome copper bezel options, and I suspect Ill pick up the d3w when it has copper options. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!

 

[dc38]

yes, the front Aux are RGB,
and you can set them to any color display you want, Red, Green, or Blue, or combinations of those.

yes you can choose single color LEDs for the Switch

or, you can choose RGB switch LEDs, which will mirror the selected color of the front facing RGB Aux

One more set of questions, raised or flat button retention ring? I would like the switch recessed to prevent accidental activation

 

[jon_slider]

One more set of questions, raised or flat button retention ring? I would like the switch recessed to prevent accidental activation

I prefer the Flat ring

The Flat ring is tall enough that the rubber button sits lower than the rim of the Flat ring.

The Flat switch ring makes the button feel very similar to a Zebra..

The Tall ring is uncomfortable to use, it sticks up too far and forces me to use my fingertip.. Go Flat! ;-)

 

[sim1tti]

Looking pretty sweet on paper. Usurping Zebralight on most fronts. Not going to be able to resist this one for long. Emisar is really pushing the envelope that Zebralight dropped.

Battery is not included, the light works with both Flat Top and Button Top LiIon, plus AA and Eneloop.

The product page says no protected LiIons. You heard differerent? I'm still very enthusiastic about the tail spring mod you inspired for my D2. Perhaps that will work on these too.

about beam profiles, given your appreciation for focused hotspots, here is why I recommend you buy the optional Carclo 10507

the Dw3AA uses a frosted medium spot Carclo 10508 by default. This is a very floody optic. I think it is unnecessarily floody.

there are two optional additional optics:
1. the frosted narrow spot 10511, which is also floody (wider than a TS10). It comes by default on my D3AA and I like using it. It diffuses very well to provide even brightness across the beam at indoor distances.

2. The clear narrow spot 10507 is throwy. It focuses the beam enought to at least double the throw. At the expense of some artifacts around the outer perimeter of the beam, which are not objectionable outdoors. otoh, indoors, or at indoor distances outdoors, I prefer the 10511 optic.

This is very good to know. Thank you.

I prefer the Flat ring

The Flat ring is tall enough that the rubber button sits lower than the rim of the Flat ring.

The Flat switch ring makes the button feel very similar to a Zebra..

The Tall ring is uncomfortable to use, it sticks up too far and forces me to use my fingertip.. Go Flat! ;-)

The hand feel of these Emisar lights still doesn't match that of Zebralight, IMO. The switches in particular. They are too recessed for how stiff they are, even with the flat ring. I wish the switches were a bit more proud or a bit less stiff. Turning on my D2, for example, is not fun when it is mounted on my head. None of my zebralights suffer from that. I understand there's a concern about accidentally switching it on, but slightly unscrewing the tail or head has always worked with my Zebralights and my Emisars.

 

[jon_slider]

The product page says no protected LiIons.

the reason for no Protected is that Turbo (5.5A) will trip protection (4A).. but since I disable Turbo, Im able to use the Lumintop 14500 w USB-C charging.

The D3AA, and presumably also the Dw3AA, does not have the battery length limitations of the D2. There is no need to modiy the tailspring of the D3AA, nor presumably the Dw3AA. Protected USB-C 14500 batteries are no longer than AA Eneloop (50mm).

> The hand feel of these Emisar lights still doesn't match that of Zebralight, IMO

agree, the Zebra is smooth, the Dw3AA body is Very Knurly.. ;-)

otoh, the Zebra UI is not as easy for me to use as Anduril. And the Dw3AA sends Constant Current to the LED, so its output is steady.

Zebras have several modes that do not power the LED constantly, instead there is output dimming up to 66% modulation depth.

 

[sim1tti]

the reason for no Protected is that Turbo (5.5A) will trip protection (4A).. but since I disable Turbo, Im able to use the Lumintop 14500 w USB-C charging.

Though you may not need it, those specific cells are rated 4A constant. Unclear if the spec is accurate.

 

[jon_slider]

here is a great D3AA review showing the power level of step 7 is less than 4A:

Step 5 of 250 lm is the Thermally Sustainable level and only uses 0.61A

 

[dc38]

Waiting on my dw3aa i guess.

 

[dc38]

here is a great D3AA review showing the power level of step 7 is less than 4A:

View attachment 75741

Step 5 of 250 lm is the Thermally Sustainable level and only uses 0.61A

So, roughly 1.5 to 2 hours on a 14500?

Im thinking of getting a vapcell h10, but if i can squeeze more runtime out of a lower level, I'd totally go for a higher mAh rating at 3.7 and just ditch the turbo altogether.